Anthonyd

Cool, that'll be three so far and at least we should have one Z to look at!

Mine to but be good to catch up and see what everyone wants from the meets so we can get some sorted.

We on for this one? Names 1. Anthonyd 2. 300zx_666 3. Sir Charles 4. WelshZ

After finishing the rear suspension and plenum water bypass I finally got the car to start after fndng the loose CAS plug. I did the bypass as the thread below, once the car started to get to temperature something happened and all the water was dumped over the drivers side turbo and downpipe? I checked the bypass hoses and heater ones and they are all fine, any ideas? Is there another rubber hose for the turbo, assuming I've done one then there must be another like the two on the passenger side? http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=132280

Anyone, want to look at it tomorrow if its not the rubber top mount needing to sttle. Thanks in advance.

Just got everything back together and back on the floor but one side is about 20mm higher than the other at the back, could this be due to the rubber and it just needs to 'sink'?

For anyone that has good rear shock but the gaitors knacked here is a cheap fix. The OE ones come complete with the bump stops which are usually ok and cost around £35 + VAT each :thumbdown: So as I needed both sizes I managed to buy these gaitors from a motorfactors, they are universal power steering rack gaitors and are much thicker and stronger than the old ones. So armed with spring compressors etc the swap was easy after trimming them to the correct end sizes to slide over the bump stop and locating lip on the shock. Quite pleased with myself and for £7.00 + VAt per pair a big saving!!! Broken Universal part Fixed

Sending my boot panels today!!!

Hope this is ok with mods but in the process of registering as a trader, if you can hold on a little longer there will be a 25% member discount for clips! Hopefully the invoice and bank details will be in my pm soon so I can get going.

Any guides for the removal, assume calipers, drive shaft nut and the vaious suspensin components disconnected?

On fleebay but they don't ft either :pinch: even at 13.1 they are to big. Will let you know I get on as drilling hub to 13mm then trying one to see if the interference of .1mm is enough. If iy works I'll send you the link.

HaHa we win!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :2guns::clover::surrender::thumbup:

Thanks, just ordered some 13mm ones.

Thanks

Can anyone tell me if the splines on rear wheel studs are 12 or 13mm, the ones that arrived are 14.1 and don't fit

Thanks, so basically position the top mount so it lines up to fit and the weight and time will do the rest?

Thanks all, a few more smacks and its started started to move!

Trying to fit Eibach lowering springs but if I position the bottom of the spring right up to the lip where the oe one sits and then the top end to the ilp in the rubber same as oe then the the shock won't go back on. THe top and bottom mounts don't line up by about 30-40 degrees. I compared the oe and Eibach spring and they aren't the same, the oe one is a few inches longer, these came off a Z. How do I positon them so the shocks fit???

Google DecTek, they are in Treforest South Wales and ask for Chrs Betts and tell Anthony deCaux sent you, they are really good and good prices to.

After a serious amount of grief from players and the crowd chanting 'cheat' at me and the announcer you can here in the commentary disagreeing it seems they were the 'correct calls' after all. Nice that I can sit back smugly :yes: http://www.shropshirestar.com/sport/2011/03/07/who-would-be-an-ice-hockey-referee/

After searching and viewing a thread on here with a link it says to remove the rear brake discs by tapping them off with a hammer or screwing two bolts into the holes to force it off. Tried but not moving at all, I know there are brake shoes on the inner rear so assume it's these or very bad rust holding them on, any ideas the best way to get them off?

OK, so 1st Monday of April if these meets still happen?

So could you fit these to a TT without hicas instead of the lockout bar or would you need a NA rear subframe?

Think I know which colour I will go for from the 2 pics but lets see how the poll goes....

I have all my boot panels off now so am thinking I may send them up to be done in black, also front/rear ones from in the car to be done in black and red (will send material sample to get best match) Car would then be at Japfest if everyone wanted to have a look?