StuartR

So, my A/C compressor is siezed :cry: Should I: 1. Disable the compressor circuit so the magnetic clutch cannot engage, but I still get partial climate control. Will this put strain on the magnetic clutch bearings when, say, I'm feeling like a spirited drive. How is this lubricated, and is it likely to sieze if I leave it a while before getting the A/C repaired. or 2. Disable the compressor mechanically by cutting/removing the drive belt? Is anything else driven by this belt, or is the lowest pulley just an idler/adjuster? I value the opinion of all experts out there! :bow: Cheerz StuartR

Anyone know why an induction timing strobe gives different signals when open and closed? I checked my timing yesterday, and lo and behold I was running at 0 TDC, zilch advance. No wonder it felt a bit flat :rolleyes: Redone the timing with the loop open, and whey-hey - back to full fierceness, even spinning on the dry away froma standstill :dance: I know Andy Duff has warned about this before - take heed of this man :bow: So, any ideas why this happens? Cheerz StuartR

Nowt wrong with the belt (aside from a little heated?) Cheers Andy (as usual!) - I'll disconnect that until I get around to having the compressor done and regassed.....maybe next year :slap:

Driving to work this morning with the front demister operating all of a sudden the car gave out a massive squeal and stalled..... A real 50p - 20p moment :shock: - the pounds fell before my eyes!! Restarted only for the squeal to return and a smell of burning rubber. However, turning off the A/C (econ mode) and everything was fine again. A/C on and engine goes off (when idling) :rolleyes: Is it fair to say the A/C compressor has siezed? Are these easy enough for a competent to replace? Are they better to buy new or second-hand (AndyZ?) If I buy new, should I get one for 134a (p/n 92600-48P00/1) or one for the older gas (-30P01/5). Would I need a new receiver also? Is there anything else I should be concerned about? I plan to remove the connector for the high pressure switch on the receiver, so I can still have demist without A/C use. Cheers for your ideas :duffer: St

Could be valve stem seals? I've had these go on another car before, and smokes on no load (i.e. when you decelerate from speed). Does it also start to smoke if you are idling in traffic?

Perhaps the "poor image" is related to the unfortunate designation. Afterall, there are 2 300ZX models (Z31 & Z32). IMO the Z31 looks old, American, soft and slow. The Z32 is gorgeous and goes like stink. Maybe people think of the 300ZX as the fat old one (no disrespect meant to owners of such!!!) ;) In any case - I LOVE MINE!!!

Spotted black import NA (well no IC ducts anyway ;) ) going North on A1 yesterday around Grantham on A1 at 1.00pm ish. Anyway, if it was you, your offside headlight is blown :nono: ;) # HTH :rolleyes: Stuart

Well I've learnt something new today! Actually two things - how the boost system (inc. jets) works - and that Andy Duff is actually God!!! :bow: Any chance of world peace, Andy?

Try this (and related pages) - I used it to check my vacuum piping, and found it most useful! http://www.300zx.lv/catalog/?gr=D&sec=223&pic=B01

I am an experienced chemical engineer - I know a little about fluid flow in all its many forms ;) From looking at the diagrams around the turbo (headache central :rolleyes: ) it looks like a flow would be maintained through the pipe the jets are installed in, which do not feed the wastgate actuator directly, but through a 3 way piece that feeds back to the turbo and actuator together!. The flow recirculates to the turbo, and allows pressure to build until it gets to waste-gate levels. Thus with a restriction in this line, a higher pressure drop is achieved, and hence a higher boost pressure is required (or obtained depending on how you look at it!) to meet the wastegate pressure. The wastegate actuator has not "exit flow". However, I believe that there has to be flow through the jets for them to work (and it does back to the turbo, if I'm interpreting the diagrams correctly :rolleyes: ). With a restriction the air has to flow through this narrower channel which is harder work, therefore requiring a higher driving force (i.e. pressure). The narrower the channel, the harder the work, the higher the required pressure. This is why smaller jet sizes lead to higher boost (albeit at different rates for different peeps). I think this also explains why boost jets "spike" - eventually the air pressures equalise around the restriction, but initially the pressure will increase higher than final until "steady-state" is obtained. Also if the pipe was direct to the wastegate actuator, with no flow, then ultimately boost jets wouldn't work. With no flow, at steady state the pressure would be maintained at design pressure regardless of the jet size. So if this were the case no-one would see boost increases with jets, just speed of boost increases (if you smell what I'm cooking!) However, many people get good results with boost jets! Consider a 1mm jet in a 1cm body. This gives an area reduction of 100 times over the "pipe". This is substantial in the scheme of things! Consider trying to breathe through a straw! I wouldn't know - I haven't got any :tongue: Enough pedantry (nearly). I may be interpreting the diagrams wrong, but the evidence is that boost jets do increase boost, the smaller the jet the higher the boost, so restriction must play a part!!! The restriction must affect the boost pressure (as they work) so must cause a pressure change in the system. This must be related to flow since we agree that pressure change and flow are inextricably related (you can't have one without the other). You may now give me a dry slap :p StuartR

Boost jets provide a restriction in the hose. To overcome this restriction takes pressure (its like trying to breathe through your nose when you've got a cold - harder work!!!). If the wastegate opens at a fixed pressure (or thereabouts) and you have boost jets providing restriction, then the upstream (pre-jet) pressure needs to be higher to open the wastegate than if the jets were not there. Hence higher boost! Simple really!!!?

Everyone I've ever met thinks I'm great???!!! :bow:

My point exactly - there is a dipstick; it must be there for a reason!!!

And why would you check the water level from here, with markings for H & L?

I asked Mr F to get me a Temp Sensor and harness last year. When I went to pick them up I looked at the harness and noticed that there was only one connector in the harness, but two on the sensor. Mike thought it odd as well! I think the harness is "multi-purpose". I didn't renew mine, worried that the single connector would mess things up. (I just cleaned it up proper!) Perhaps others have used this replacement harness without problems?

I had a similar problem with mine - started on a jump start (leave the soarer running, and start the Zed on jump leads) but wouldn't start on the battery. Battery was tested to be fine. As Andy said, it could be a bad earth on the starter motor. It was on mine, and after tightening the earth I've been back to perfect starting every time. It seems the starter needs lots of volts, and a bad earth drops the effective volts below the solenoid threshhold. Jump-starting provides volts about 2V higher than the battery, which overcame the bad earth. Turned out cheaper than a new battery and/or starter motor! HTH StuartR

Hey Jonno, Lingdale is just a short way away! Don't think I've ever seen your car about. You've probably not seen mine either - piccies just put on rides section! You might have seen (or heard) my Cortina though!!! I've only seen 4 ZXs in the area. A white one briefly in G'Bro last year, a black SWB around Enfield chase, a gold one in the Marton road area, and a yellow one parked outside an A/C place on Marton road, near the new Cinema complex. Jaylox (http://www.NEPerformance.co.uk) is Teesside way, a trader on the forum, and may have more contact details (as well as be able to get some parts). Your not talking F*lcon in Middlesbrough, are you? I haven't had any work done by them, and heard good things, but I thought a bit pricey, and the fact they wouldn't allow me to provide my own parts (even though they were Nissan) put me right off!! That's not to say that they are either good or bad (no opinion expressed!) I do all the servicing myself (aside from the stuff where a receipt is useful - cambelt). Most of the stuff is noddy (TPS, idling, oil levels/changes, filter changes, shocks, brakes, etc.) and easy to do in the garage (once you get over the daunting engine bay - its not actually that bad when you take a deep breath and have another look). With the help of my brother, I've also changed the centre prop bearing and gearbox mount. I'm lucky enough to have a large garage, and all the tools for the jobs. I've essentially rebuilt my Cortina several times (mechanically at least), so I'm pretty confident with the basic stuff. That isn't to say I do it all the time, or whatever. In fact, I've got 5 week old twins to contend with at the moment, so not much time for anything (including sleep!). Anyway, I don't think Vine Place is too far (its only 30 miles) and they look professional enough. The service is quite expensive, but also pretty comprehensive. Its certainly closer than the places I've been to so far.... Anyway, enough rambling. If you find somewhere, let me know (and I'll do likewise). If there's a NE meet I may see you there, or if you want any (limited) local advise, drop me a line! Good luck getting your next ZX! StuartR

Cheers Mike, I guess I can now send my address to Ajay. At least I wasn't being dense (I don't think!) Good to be a member, after a year of lurking!!!! StuartR

Sorry Ajay, Its me that can't send, not you that can't accept! Anyway, seems to be a catch-22 situation. I can't send you a PM or e-mail without being a subscribed member. You can't subscribe me without a PM or e-mail for my address. How do we address this (no pun intended!!!)? I'm not likely to be posting my address publically!!! StuartR

Hi Jonno, I've been looking for someone in Teesside for ages (I live in G'Bro). My work has been carried out by Grasshopper (in Leigh) and Zedworld (Tamworth) - a bit far away but good for piece of mind! If you find anyone let me know! That said, nothing needs doing, and I can manage the small jobs myself! Another Zed in teesside, eh! StuartR

Hi, Just paid my subs via the internet thingy. =============================== This email confirms that you have paid 300ZX.CO.UK (paypal@300zx.co.uk) 20.60 GBP using PayPal. This credit card transaction will appear on your bill as "PAYPAL *300ZX CO UK". Payment Details Amount: 20.60 GBP Transaction ID: 31P40179HM801311G Quantity: 1 Item/Product Name: 300zx.co.uk New Membership Subscription Item/Product Number: 1_1534 Buyer: Stuart Raynor ============================= Do I get a prize or something? I need to give someone my address, but Ajay isn't accepting PMs. Could someone help!!! StuartR

Didn't get to the problem with the A/C (although I've got perfect idle now!). You could disable the A/C by taking a fuse out, disconnecting the low pressure switch, etc. until you get a chance to regas, or whatever. At least it won't sound like a fridge!, and your CC will still work (but without any A/C, if you get my drift!) Of course, you can run the CC on Econ (that's what I do most of the time). A quick blast of the demister clears the screen whether A/C is working or not! If you get your A/C fixed - let me know what you did, and at least I'll have some idea for when I finally get around to it!!!

Similar (no starting) problem with mine turned out to be a loose earth on the starter motor. Tightened up, and no problem starting eversince! StuartR

I agree with all. If the fluid is brown and burnt, something is broke:cry: If you had first and reverse, I'd go for brake band(s) being knackered. These might be replaceable with the gearbox on the car(???). If you've lost traction in reverse I'm guessing one or more of the clutches have gone. Sorry to hear this - its a rebuild/replacement job. StuartR

Agree with Jonny. Check the electrics first - and its always a good idea to reset the ECU (battery off for 30 mins to overnight). Sometimes the gearbox can get itself a little confused.....:rolleyes: StuartR