StuartR

First time for everything - Grey Import ZX - wait for me :hyper:

Hi, I got a day pass from the missus, so I think I'll be going on my first meet :nana2: (after about 4 years in the club :slap: ). I'll be filling with V-Power (how naff is that name) in G'Bro (if anyone wants a mini-pre-pre-pre-meet meet), and then I'll see you guys at Teesside Park. I've a spare seat if anyone wants to come - they don't call me William No Friends for nothing........ See ya Sunday :p StuartR

You swine - now I'm insanely jealous :p . I've always loved the 2.8 Capri. Thing with old Fords - they break, they cost about £2.76 to fix....... My next Cortina project will be the Cosworth V6 from an old Grannie - when I get the time and the funds! But wait, this isn't a Ford forum :cry:

I've had an Apexi on for over a year. My only problem is a very slight hesitancy when its wet out - really wet (like at has been all month). This never gives a big problem, and usually goes away totally when I, ahem, clear its throat with a bit of right foot action :hyper:

Nah - can't say I remember seeing your other motor. I should pay more attention :slap: At least my other (non-family) car is a bit more memorable - have you seen the loud green MkIII Cortina around town??? :hyper:

Didn't even know about this meet! I've not been on the forum for a while - what a bad boy....... Anyway, P1555ED, I wanted to say I've see your car around town - another Zed in G'Bro, and what a car! I just never seem to be in mine when I see other Zeds :cry: If you want to compare notes or anything, just get in touch! StuartR

One tip I could have done with would be to do all the interior stuff before doing the pipes, etc. in the engine bay (at least enough to expose the piping in the footwell). When this is done it should be relatively easy to push the rubber grommet out from inside the car - I butchered mine trying to remove it from the engine side, but found I could push the remains out real easy from inside the car - DOH!

Ok Guys, See a few of ya have been in the same boat as me, but looks like you've all managed where I couldn't. I've been following the aussie guide, and aside from the bolt between the pipes through the bulkhead I managed everything reasonably easy (with the exception of 1. Stuck hoses that took ages to pry off, 2. A firewall grommet that wouldn't budge until demolished 3. Foam padding that refused to move off the bolt until pulled out!) But for the love of all things Z I cannot get the last bolt undone. There is simply no room for my hands and any tools to get to it. I managed to get a 1/4 inch socket on, but no room for the ratchet. I managed to get a screwdriver in there, but no room for leverage to get it turning. I spent 4 hours trying to get his one bolt undone. :headvswal So PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE - any hints, tips, on what I can do next? Any special tools any of you used? I'm desparate and I'm sure I don't want this b*stard to beat me. CheerZ StuartR

I had a small problem like this when I adjusted my timing. Apparently I had loosened the connection to the CAS (the circular timing sensor on the RHS of the engine cambelt cover). This caused the car to start to hunt, back-fire and eventually cut out. Pushing this back on firmly stopped the problem. So I would guess that you've got a CAS or PTU problem - check these connectors are clean and firmly located first, before doing anything else....... HTH StuartR

If you want to check your timing you need to: Get car to temperature Switch off A/C, lights, etc. (i.e. keep it on base load tick-over) Attach a timing strobe - importantly if this is an induction based strobe, there is a loop of wire on the PTU that can be used BUT you need to make sure the induction sensor on the strobe is OPEN - otherwise you may get the wrong timing reading (don't ask me why with the loop closed I get an extra 10° - if I time to the closed signal my effective timing is 5° and I loose mucho powero). Best bet is to take no. 1 coil pack out and attach a conventional spark lead between it and the plug, then use the strobe on the lead. Point the stobe down to the crank (careful not to catch the cooling fan!) and read the timing from the crank pully. If you need to adjust (normal operation is 15°) there are 3 10mm bolts on the CAS that need to be loosened (do this with the engine off!!!). The CAS can then be rotated (slightly!) to change the timing to the right value (with the engine running again). Once correct, shut the engine off and retighten the CAS bolts. The all done. HTH StuartR

All, Just renewed membership of the best car club on t'web via Paypal. Just thought I'd let those who care know!!! And I'd like stickers/keyring when available :hyper: StuartR

When I adjusted my tickover I did the following: 1. Get the car to operating temperature (doesn't take long!!!) 2. Turn off and then disconnect the IAC connector - this can be a bit fiddly, and if the car has run for a while be prepared for hot hands....... 3. Restart the car and tweek the idle control screw (on the IAC thingy somewhere) to get a good tick-over. I purposely set mine a little higher than the standard 750rpm - about 850 I think is what I set. 4. Reconnec the IAC, and do an ECU reset for good measure. Don't forget to give it time for the ECU to relearn and settle. As an aside, if the problem isn't too major you may be able to get away with a real simple fix that worked for me - I just lashed in some fuel injector cleaner into the petrol - double dose to start, and then normal dose with each refill. This has worked wonders on my 300 - smoother idling, good power delivery, better economy (like it really makes much difference!). I use Redex! I used to get idle problems turning the AC between Econ and Normal, and when engaging reverse. Now everything is totally sweet! Good luck StuartR (and perhaps you may want to consider subscribing ;) )

Just a thought - like many other cars this will have a "moving" sensor (from the speedo, or gearbox or whatever) that determines whether the car is stationary or not, and adjusts the idle revs accordingly. If you are coasting the revs will be slightly higher than if stationary. Don't know whether this ties in with your "pulling away everything is ok" statement. In addition, do you get the same problems with the AC running (which also raises the revs) or when you change to engage reverse from neutral, or when the steering is operated at idle? In any case, is your idle actually adjusted correctly (i.e. with the IAC disconnected)? And is the IAC connected correctly - I think this can sometimes be misconnected to the VVT solenoid and vice versa! Like I was saying - just thoughts.....

Just my 2p worth. I think the code 34 indicates a "failed" det sensor. In this case it can never pick up det, so assumes det will occur and the car always runs in safety mode. The ECU will also set the car in safety mode if the car registers det through a functioning det sensor. In this case it retains safety mode until the ignition is turned off and turned back on again. It then runs normal until (or if) it detects Det again. There is a difference between the two...... CheerZ StuartR

I had this some time ago - wasn't the battery but the leads connecting to the starter solenoid (covered in oil). So if a charged battery doesn't help, try to tighten up the leads to the starter (from underneath) and this might help...... CheerZ StuartR

I got them from Jeff Fowkes (http://www.jefffowkes.co.uk) mail order. The centre cap is TSW, but you may be able to get a gold cap or something that fits (could be standard?) One point to note is that I needed 5mm spacers on the front (could probably get away with 3mm spacers also - without spacers the wheel just skimmed the standard calipers. CheerZ StuartR

Smithy, I've recently bought new 18" wheels which may be similar to what you were thinking of? These are TSW Catalunya wheels - hyperblack in the middle with a polished rim. Mine are 8x18 all around (can get these in 9x18 also) with 225 front and 255 rear (which fit just fine). All in was around £950 including tyres, balancing, etc. I can get more details if you like..... CheerZ StuartR

Cheers again guys, So excusing my ignorance :confused: is it just a case of taking these joints apart, lobbing on some suitable grease and reassembling? Or can these be lubricated in place? I know if I do this I have to tighten everything up on the ground, but I'll have the car in the air at the weekend for new brake pipes, so I may as well go for the suspension lubrication as well. CheerZ StuartR

I got mine from trader Mike (MJP) last year. Can't remember exact price but something like £90 each. Rears coming this week from Luke - at a bargain £30 each...... CheerZ StuartR

Cheers fellas, I'll be swapping the shocks over at the weekend (if its not snowing!) and I plan on getting new gaskets for the shocks front and rear. I'll have a look at the suspension while I'm under there and lubricate whatever I can see! Do I need to take anything out to lubricate it (or will something like penetrating oil work)? CheerZ StuartR

:mac1: Can edit - I'm just a tit. :mac1:

Hi All, With the cold weather I've begun to notice an annoying creaking coming from the nearside front shock mounting. It seems that anything below 5°C seems to cause the creak (until everything warms up). Also if I soak the area in WD40 the creak disappears for a while. I replaced the shocks last autumn (they are new with about 2000 miles) and noticed the creak then, only to forget about it over summer. Any ideas? Makes the car sound a bit naff at the moment.... I didn't replace the gaskets at the time - are these easy to get hold of (part no. anyone?) (I'm gonna swap the shocks over next weekend anyway, 'cos they are on the wrong sides but as far as I could make out this only affects the brake hose attachment). CheerZ StuartR

If you remove the exhaust, do the hangers as step 1, 2, 3 in the diagram. Put back on in reverse order. Otherwise it can be a real PITA to get the back-box hangers back in place. I don't know how much difference removing the restrictors would make - I changed my system cat back. CheerZ StuartR

I only took pictures of the flange close up - so you could see the restrictors in place. This is the part of the exhaust which is effectively under the front seats, and is unbolted from the cat. I've highlighted the part a diagram from the online manual (with appropriate kudos to whomever holds all the legal stuff to this.....) StuartR

Here is the picture I took of my old exhaust (replaced with the Mongoose :hyper: ). These are the flanges that bolt onto the cat exit - you can seem some restrictions (about 1.5") in each pipe that could probably be tortured out! Looks like these restrictions are post cat. Getting the system off and on again is quite easy if you approach removal systematically starting from the front to the rear. I just replaced mine up on wheel ramps. HTH StuartR