turbo_boy

Well my boost controller turned up today, but I'm hoping someone will be able to tell me the answers to the following: 1. What diameter tubing do I need to run from the turbo's/actuator and any ideas on how long a length I should get. 2. Where's the best place to take a manifold pressure reading from to plumb into the control unit? Pictures would be great ;) I know how to plum/wire into the TT system just don't want to go crawling around under the car to get tube diameters if I can help it lol. Cheers, Brendan

I paid for a boost controller last Monday to and I only got it today after 2 messages chasing it up, not that he's read them. Mine was posted yesterday according to the label.

Had all the inner panels off today to check for screws couldn't see any, just little "worms" of bonding agent that had come through the holes for them. The whole thing screams "BODGE" at me, pretty much like most of the other jobs people have done on the car over time lol. The wire Idea is worth a try though and a chisel is always handy as back up lol. Cheers guys!!

Well providing i'm not working i'll make the next one. Only missed this one as i had prior arrangments :( Looks like i missed a good meet. My car should look a bit different and be a bit more solid when you all see it next lol

Can't find any bolts holding it on. Trouble with a hacksaw blade is it'll cut into the boot and not being able to see there's potential for damage I don't want. My best idea so far is a sharp blade and a lot of patience, which is something I lack so I wondered if there was a quicker/easier way someone else had used?

The spoiler on my car needs to come off as I don't like it and it's on wonkey anyway. Need to get it off with out damaging it if possible as i have someone interested in buying it. Trouble is some fool has bonded it on so it's not going to be easy........... Anyone have any tips, advice ETC? I'm not too worried about the paint on the boot as I know it'll need respraying anyway, just don't want to damage the metal work.

If the pins are wrong, ie opposite when you need 20 past 8 for example, just use a sharp knife to cut one of the pins off. As long as the contacts are clean it'll still work fine ;) Not ideal granted but if you're impatient like me it does the job.

Well it's going to have the welding done on Tuesday, found a local Japanese car specialist round the corner from me that I never even knew existed until a mate told me about them. Not only does the owner drive a 300, he specialises in them so that's nice to know, it's only a 20 min WALK from my house to. Any way today some bits turned up, just some clear indicators and silver bulbs, so I fitted them and heated up the front units to pry the lens off and remove the orange inner lens (180deg for about 5 mins is enough) Had to splice and solder some wires, took about an hour all in I guess but I think it worth it. I'll get around to re doing the rears at some point I'd imagine to BEFORE AND AFTER PICS

Love em, want em!! what the size, offset ETC?

I love it all smooth, I'm not a fan of that spoiler, personally i think it is ugly and doesn't suit the car.

What Graham said, just do a bit at a time and use a file for the last few bits so as to make sure you don't take too much out.

Hmm no sub and amp yet. Its only been a recent thing, the last couple of weeks really. Today I tried to start it and got the familiar "click" click" sound but then it turned over just, caught, and fired up. Stopped for petrol, at my mates and it started after being driven no problems what so ever, So I'm thinking power drain somewhere. Gonna have to start pulling fuses I think....

I'd go for the golf 1.9tdi. Mate had the same engine in an ibiza and it was quite good fun to drive, even caning it about it still done 40+MPG, sensible driving saw 50+ easy, she used to use it to go to Wales and back every weekend from Essex .

The battery on my car seems to go flat if I don't use the car for a couple of days, or as was proved Sunday leave the ignition on for 20mins with nothing running. Had the battery checked, told it's fine, had the alternator checked, told that's fine to. Had a look at the connections on the starter motor and all the earth connections and they seem good so I'm now left scratching my head and thinking it's a power drain from something. Anyone else had this?

Iv'e had several turbo cars, all tuned, all with the "insulation" removed and NEVER a problem caused because of it. I'm sure it's there as sound deadening.

I'm sure i read somewhere that to remove the PCV valves you need to hook up a pump or something to create a continual vacume? It was pretty recent i think to :confused:

The center section is the right way up, the flanges are off set so it will only fit one way. If you look at the brace bar between the widest point of the "X" you can see it is bent. (it should straight) Now if you look at the angle of the left hand exit of the "X" section (right hand side in the pic) you can see it is not at the same angle as the other side. This is causing the back box on that side to hit the diff and HICAS unit.

It could probably be saved, will definately need some welding though and a general tidy up :(

Personally, I'd plump for the voyager, My ex's parents had one and we have one at work and it's comfy, powerful and nice to be in. The Kia is a cheaply made car to begine with so i'd imagine would feel pretty poor inside and fall apart pretty quick, don't know for sure though. As an alternative how about a galaxy? I know they are common and boring but my sister has had one for 4 years now and it's transported her family of 6, helped me move twice and has needed practically nothing.

Right got round to fitting the new exhaust today, what a PAIN IN THE BUTT!! I don't think the fact it's gotten bent in transit helps, so the passenger side back box, touches the diff and HICAS unit :( managed to "bodge" it for now until I can get it fettled and sitting right. This car is really beginning to try my patience, so far the only thing that's gone right is changing the steering wheel. Ho Hum. The old exhaust is knackered, so sorry to those of you that wanted to buy it, it's gone where the pipe work joins the back box, and the flanges that join the 2 sections together have had it to. Any where here's a pic of the new exhaust and a quick video of how it sounds:

It's an N1 system from the states, £217.44 delivered to my door, marked as gift so no tax to pay with any luck..............It'll go on as soon as i have the rubbers and the weather cheers up (thunder storms here at the moment) The steering wheel fits the interior nicely, I have recaro's instead of the "airliner" stock seats so it suits the "sporty" look.

My new steering wheel turned up today, ever since fitting the recaros, it's been a bit hard to get in and out of the zed with the 350mm wheel, so when a plain black 280mm wheel came up for sale I snapped it up :D Then this afternoon this came: This should give it away: MMMMMMMMMMMMMM SHINEY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:D Just need to get some new exhaust rubbers and then it'll be going straight on!

Definately need more boost, will try and see what I can find tomorrow

well had a quick look today, (didn't find anything) was going to have a look under the car but due to events this morning i couldn't be bothered. As I said yesterday I "fixed" my horn. Worked great then about 2am the horn on my car just went off, woke most of my neighbours (not that I care) but I had to pull the earth off the horn to shut it up. It had been parked up since 9.30pm ish. Went out after work, did nothing but put the earth back on and quiet as a mouse. press the horn button and it works fine. This one's got me proper stumped. I just swapped the horn over to the other side. Best I can come up with is the horn push. It moves very little to sound the horn when you push it, so maybe the drop in temp had something to do with it over night? Any was until I get a newer/better one I just pull the earth off when I park up. The problems continue..................................

Goes to the later, the big thick black tube with all the connectors for the coilpacks & injectors That pic may help though, looks like i'll be getting right under the car tomorrow then.