Flying Machine

Jack, who do you know at Lola? I used to work at Lola a long time ago (left in '92). Built the Nissan R91 LeMans car while I was there! That lump had a lot of smiilarities to the 300 motor. Just 3 times the power! ;-)

I need a bit of advice identifying the manufacturer of my front suspension top links, adjustable camber. They are like a sleeved, flat steel box section, with four bolts through them vertically, and two pinch bolts either side. Gold coloured finish, with rubber bushings on the inboard end, and a grease nipple underneath. About 10" x 5" x 1" thick. Well the rubber bushes are worn to death, but I can't find a manufacturer's name on the links themselves, and the previous owner doesn't know when they were fitted. Any ideas who makes these? I need to know if they can take standard rubber bushes. Thanks in advance!

Hi! This car parked outside my flat today, in Maida Hill. Just wondered if it was anyone on here? A silver Jap import with a Shark nose bodykit and APEXI stickers on the bonnet...

Saw a red 300zx right across the road from a flat I went to look at today! Anyone on here? It was just nearby to the tube station... Don't want to give the address away.

That's the power transistor isn't it???

Hi TeeJay Yep, that was me. The highline spoiler might be going - I've got to get the rear wheel arch re-pinned (it sticks out farther than the other side after a lousy repair!) and might go for the 'smooth' look at the same time.. I'm moving south of the river in a few weeks - just need to find a place with a garage for my baby!

Thanks Paul. I spoke to a bodyshop in Nottingham (the one that the Z centre uses for it's bodykits), they'll do a quote. Long way to go but at least they know the car inside out. Maybe I'll wait til I can afford it then get some more radical work done to the rear end...

Hi All, Whilst fixing a rearlight sensor this evening I was mightily p***ed off to find a really poor repair job on the LH rear wing. I noticed the wheel arch was sitting slightly further over the wheel than the opposite side, and started pulling the boot appart to look. Anyway, it has corroded through underneath the bumper. Is it possible to replace the rear wheel arch? It's obviously a very big job, but could anyone point me towards a body shop that could do it (if anybody?) Cheers

Oh ok, thanks. It's had a spoiler mounted brake light fitted, maybe that's the problem... Also I heard that there is a wire you can disconnect to remove the signal to the dash... Anyone know which one it is?

What's the correct bulb wattage for the main beam driving light bulbs (not full beam)? My UK spec had a 55W on the left, and a 130W on the right, which failed and brought on the warning light. I put two 55W in and they work fine, but the warning light's still on... Thought it might be 'cos of the wrong current draw from the bulbs being detected by the light warning circuit... Any help?

Thanks guys, I'll stop worrying then... Yep when I do an oil change I'll put the thicker grade of Mobil 1 in. I remember the first time I came across 0 weight engine oil... NEO oil, at £45 a gallon! (Ten years ago...) I ran it in a Formula Ford race car, and at the end of the race you'd have about 7psi on the gauge at 7000rpm... It was supposed to give about an extra 2BHP on the dyno:eek:

Might be a bit hard to answer this one - cos the stock oil pressure gauges aren't really calibrated... But I saw on another thread talking about knackered oil pumps and noisy hydraulic-ing at idle. Well, when the engine is idling, I'd say the pressure is in the bottom quarter of the gauge with Mobil 1 oil, but about midway when the engine is over about 2000rpm. It sounds healthy enough, doesn't really have heavy oil consumption (despite having 125,000miles). Is there any way to tweak up the oil pressure relief valve on these pumps? Thanks for any advice. PS Anyone want any stock wheels?

Hi, I work at Heathrow and Gatwick. I don't use the car for work though (don't fancy getting kerosene dumped on it for 5 days in a long stay carpark!)

Anyone on here? A red 300tt, J plate, with an HKS Drager (it looked like), going past Baker Street tube station last night, about 7pm? Looked nice...

Hmmm... Well, I just read the article (minus the photo's), if it didn't really fix it then I might just go for a Tein suspension kit, that was a bit further down the shopping list. Sounds like stiffer rear shocks have a bigger effect overall... Did you fit standard rear shocks?

Hi guys (n gals)? Anyone know how much of a sod it is to fit poly bushes all around (front and rear)? Does it require a work pit and special tooling? And if so, do you know anyone who can do it? The rear end seems to tramline quite badly and wanders quite a lot, at first I thought it was dampers but I thought I'd try this fix first. I've done the HICAS diagnostic and it's ok. Anyway, I guessed it wouldn't be the HICAS as I couldn't believe Nissan would produce a car that felt that nervy at the rear end at even average speeds! Or am I wrong? Feedback required... Cheers

Thanks. That sounds about right. Seeings as most of the ECU error detection works on sensing resistance and stuff!

Ok Jay, I'll give you a buzz tomorrow. Got to get on and learn how to drive my other even newer (and much MUCH faster) toy! PS How much are you talking about for 14" Brembos?

Yep, they work same as a race car spring damper set up. The coil sits over the body of the damper on a platform. The damper body is threaded so you can wind the platform up and down. You can initially set up the springs/dampers with a tape measure, setting all the platforms (across each axle) the same height. Then once they are on the car, to adjust, just take the wheel off (may not have too on the front with enough steering lock on) and wind the platforms up or down with the spanner. The droop springs are very weak springs which compress to coilbound with the car weight on them, but will stop the springs rattling around when the wheel leave the road on a jack (or over a bridge... :eek: )

Probably a no brainer this one, but it ain't in the handbook... The LIGHTS warning light on the dash, illuminates when the lights are on. They all look ok, except one side light is a bit dim. Is this what the warning is referring too? Didn't know it could monitor light bulbs too!

What do you think is the best path to go down with upgrading brakes? The previous owner of my z has had a boost upgrade (14psi) but left it on standard brakes, which has (no surprise) warped the discs. If I put 6 pot calipers on the front, will the front calipers fit the rear mounting (and discs?) And is the Skyline upgrade all four corners, is it pretty much a straight swap (I should have plenty of wheel clearance with the rims I have), and are they fairly easy to pick up?

You can always get a set of coilovers, then you can adjust the ride height to your heart's content. And the damping (bump / rebound) too. That way you're only a few minutes away from putting it back to a standard ride height rather than having to physically change the spring. It's next on my list (along with brakes) as my dampers are knackered. Tein do a set for the 300zx, and can be ordered from http://www.300zxstore.com/suspension.html Not cheap though, about $1320 plus shipping. Don't know how much the standard ones are. They come with droop springs and adjuster spanners too.

Hi Vijay I'm in Central London(ish), Westbourne Grove. Moving soon.

Yeah Tony, too right. I already love it. I've been driving it around with the windows open just to listen to the sound of it when it's on boost! (sad I know...) I was trying to get a mate to buy one too, he phoned the other day and said he'd bought a BMW 318i. 105Bhp. I said I had 100Bhp I didn't need if he wanted to borrow it! He said "Then I'll have more than you if you lost 100bhp and I gained it..." Then I told him to do the maths!

Hi! Finally got my first zed, a uk 1990 manual, lots of miles on it (127k) but really immaculate. Just trying to identify some of the bits on it as it had been carried out prior to the previous owner. It's got an HKS exhaust and powerflow induction kit, (easy to spot that one!), but is a Calsonic oil cooler standard? It's about 14" x 10" in size. Also, the intercoolers, is it possible to tell wether they are standard or HKS just from looking at the core through the front intake? Are they a sod to get to in order to look at the end tanks? It's supposed to have a 14psi conversion from TDI, but without a calibrated boost gauge on it I can't be sure. Oh yes, and when it's hot the idle becomes a bit lumpy, hunting quite a lot, between 400rpm and 900rpm. I already checked the ECu (code55) and the O2 sensors, all fine. Any ideas on that one? Cheers, happy to finally have joined the club! Derek