Flying Machine

I'm sure this has been discussed on here before, and I have heard one or two opinions against fitting dump valves to Z's, but does anyone have any experience in running the HKS SSBOV dumps (or any other BOV's for that matter) on a TT? I have just fitted a z-tech ecu, which has made a marked improvement over the stock unit, and want to add a few more bits. But do dump to atmosphere valves work with the air flow meters in our cars? I have heard of the problems you can run into with unburnt fuel causing hesitation and backfiring when changing gear. But I only plan to run up to 14psi as a maximum. What do you reckon?

Hi All I am going to fit a Greddy Profec B spec 2 to my TT in a few weeks, and was just wondering if it is possible to drive an electronic boost gauge e.g. a Greddy one, from the boost controller, or one of the inputs into the controller, instead of having to plumb two boost pressure sensors into the engine bay? If this isn't possible, then is anybody else out there using a Spec 2 with the boost display? If so, what's it like to read on the move? Do you really need a gauge as well? Cheers, would also appreciate any recomendations for someone in the London area who you would trust to fit the boost controller to a Z, though I might have a go myself! Derek

Just my two penneth worth, my car when I purchased it had Stillen top links, and they were absolutely Knackered... The bushes were ovalled out and the whole link could move fore and aft about 3/4". It had actually bent the inner bolt so badly I had to cut it out of the mounting bracket. The movement was also putting a huge strain on the damper, which would have to take up the strain under braking, and causing an awful dry, creaking sound under suspension movement which I thought was the old dampers. I replaced the dampers and fitted 'Midori' style camber adjustable top links with roller bearings, and so far the front end is rock solid. And also fitted adjustable lower tension rods with rose jointed ends.

Hmmm. DOT 5.1 eh? Next time I guess. Thanks for the info. I just fitted braided steel brake lines, that was the reason for the fluid flush. Didn't make the pedal quite as firm as I expected. Well, once at the biting point it is firm, so there is no air in it, but there is quite a bit of 'slack' taken up in the pedal first. Don't suppose there is much I can do about that though...

Thanks for all the advice. In the end I used DOT 4, but I used LOADS of the stuff to get rid of the aerated fluid.. I mean LOADS. Like 2-3 liters... So much air in the front circuit. Not big bubbles, just loads of small ones, and in the ABS circuit too. It took nearly 3 hours, but finally blead clear. I followed the sequence LR, RF, LF, RR, FRT ABS, RR ABS as recommended on the TTZ website, but that is different from the service manual. But it was only the front circuit with any problem anyway. Pedal is much firmer now, but still not 'solid' like a race car. What next? A master cylinder brace maybe?

Thanks! I'll buy a new soldering iron then... No worries on the import duty, I travel to the US about 4 times a month and bring everything back bit by bit. As long as it's below £145 ish... ;-)

Hi! I am trying to trace a dodgy idle, and having started to do the throttle bodies, which were so clean it looked like they'd been done yesterday, I started on cleaning all the connectors. Then I stopped for fear of them falling appart in my hands! So I am going to get new harneses from Courtesy for the ignition coils and the injectors. :dance: Do they both need splicing in? Or just the ignition coil harness? Is it a nightmare job to splice them in? :( Cheers

Ok, thanks! Looking forward to having a nice firm pedal with the braided lines, along with 4xnew discs so I don't get blurred vision every time I step on the brake pedal!

Thanks, DOT 4 it is then! By 'flush the system' I take it you mean just keep bleeding it until you've replaced all the fluid? Cheers Derek

Hi! I'm fitting a set of braided brake lines tomorrow, and don't know what fluid the car had in it when I bought it. What fluid do you use now? (DOT 3 doesn't exist anymore...) DOT 4? Synthetic or not? Thanks!

Hi, just done the same job and spent about 15 minutes turning the HICAS rack one spanner flat at a time, grovelling around under the car thinking "Jeez this is a fine thread..." before I worked out what was happening... And the real bitch is that once I got a spanner on the other end of the rack, guess which end uncracked and started to undo??? I found the upper arms the easiest part of the whole job, captive nut plate in the engine bay etc

Ok Mark, left a message with your mate Martyn. I'm away for a couple of weeks but I'm going to try and repair the damaged caliper when I get back, that way you will still have a complete set if anybody else needs it. If it's a non-starter then I know who to call! Derek

Mark, you are a scholar and a gent! I would feel bad taking them for nothing though! I will give him a ring and see if he is going to need them. Where abouts are you in London? I'm in Maida Hill, off the Harrow Road. Thanks again mate, hope I can return the favour!

:rofl: There's no way I'd use a helicoil if there was an axial load on the thread, but as it's all a shear loading I'm happy. A lot of the big brake kits that use an alloy adapter have threaded inserts into the ally as well, again just a shear loading on the bolt shank. Anyway, can't afford a new caliper so that's that. The money's already set aside for an ecu! :hyper:

Yeah I thought of the larger bolt but I didn't want to enlarge the hole on the suspension upright in case I want to fit non-standard calipers one day... We used to use helicoils on a lot of suspension and brake components when I worked at Lola, though they were ally./titanium so they needed it. I think the Nissan R91 LeMans car had helicoiled calipers too. Oh well, what's the worst that can happen?!! :eek: :shock:

Oh bo****ks, didn't want to hear that... That'll be the last resort, another caliper wasn't in the budget. Think I'll try a helicoil insert first. Just as well the calipers are coming off anyway to do the braided brake hoses.

Just fitted adjustable top links and tension rods today, and new StopTech slotted disc rotors, and the last sodding bolt of the job, that holds the caliper onto the upright (Ok almost, the wheel still had to go on) stripped the thread in the caliper. It was nowhere near it's specified torque either so it wasn't me being a rock ape... :smw: Anyone had this before, and if so, what did you do? Put a helicoil into the caliper? It's got a bolt and a very thin aerospace k-nut on it at the moment just to get it home. I don't want to cut a bigger thread in it cos then I'll have to drill the upright to a non-standard size... Appart from that, it's like a different car now with adjustable coilovers all round and rose jointed front end! Really solid turn in. :hyper:

Hi there. Seen a lot of postings on here regarding this, but when hot the idle hunts between 500-900rpm, and occassionally stalls when you lift off. Standard ecu, passes diagnostic. It's running 12-13psi. I'm going to clean the throttle body this weekend when I do the suspension and brakes (busy weekend!), but should I also do the fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter as a matter of course? Can't find out when it was last done before I bought the car, and I have only covered 2500 miles in it. Cheers, thanks for all the continuing good advice! Derek PS I have a lovely shiny pair of Japanese adjustable upper arms and tension rods looking at me in my hotel room here, just shipped from Courtesy! ;-)

£150 sounds reasonable! Sorry for the delay in replying, just got back from LA with my new brakes ;) I'll let you know about the ecu after I've spoken to Chris at GetGreddy. The JWT eci is a lot more money, but I don't really know what the differences are between the two options until I've spoken to him. Have you been running the ecu in your z? Any feedback, good or bad would be appreciated. I'm running a stock ecu with about 12psi at the moment. And worried about it! :(

My car has exactly the same squeek, gets worse once the car is hot. I just replaced all the springs and dampers (was going to do that anyway!) and expected the noise to go away. But it didn't. I am now 90% sure it is coming from a worn out top camber adjustable link. There is loads of compliance in it and all the grease has been spat out of the bushings. I agree, a bit of WD40 on the link temporarily alleviates the problem, but look at worn out upper link bushings.

The mod was done by SE a few years ago, but there are definitely two bleed screws, one on each side. I want to fit an electronic boost control soon, so it'll all be coming out anyway. So the SE version still uses the stock boost solenoids, but runs an extra bleed off the wastegate actuator instead of a jet in the actuator line? When I fit the boost control I want to replace the whole actuator line so the car has about 7psi with the electronics turned off. This is what I read on the installation guide online, it said that there are still small boost jets in the standard actuator lines, and that once you remove the boost solenoids when installing an AVCR for example, the 'natural' boost would be about 9psi, not 7psi. Is that a big job to reach the actuator lines on the turbo? JD, how much do you want for the ECU?

Ok. So when the boost control solenoids are open, the car is in 7psi safety boost? My car was fitted with screw in mechanical bleeds, justy under the soft hoses at the front of the engine. I haven't dug around yet to see where they go, but I guess they are connected to a T piece in the wastegate actuator and are bleeding some air off?

I had been told that dumps can also cause a problem when used with an airflow meter as on the z, as the air is vented off to atmosphere but the fuel is still metered as if it was staying in the closed circuit, so you can get huge backfires or cutting out on upshift. I also heard that some modified ecu's can take care of this... :confused:

Ok thanks again! I'll see what GetGreddy comes up with and go from there. Any positive / negative feedback on either ecu's would be appreciated. One thing I did notice, is that the JWT ecu claims to increase boost, but I though this was only possible with bleeds / boost jets / controllers etc. Can the boost be software controlled from the ecu itself? I'm a bit confused now...

Ok willdo! Thanks.