jonjokes

well as far as im aware the ignition of most cars consists of 3 stages. Please all correct me if im wrong as usually i am. You have got a live for the first click, then a live at the second click, and a live for the third which starts the car. When you turn the key to the off position it breaks the live causing the car to cut off. If for some reason that live isnt being broken then the car will not stop. The turbo timer simply keeps this live constant for whatever time you set and then breaks the live thus switching the car off. So is it possible that for some reason the live wire isnt turning off properly??

ignore me, having my funny five minutes at the time. Picking up some resistors tomorrow night so will let everyone know if i have cured my safety boost issues. Thanks to the help received by all

havent seen many N/A's with turbo timers?? :-)

i had the same problem on an mr2. It was due to the immobiliser playing up. Could be dodgy wiring with the ignition but that a stab in the dark that im sure you have already thought of. Why not just remove the dash enough to get at ignition wires and put a multimeter accross them. At least then you can find out if its a wiring problem.

have you got an alarm immobiliser??

thats what i love about this forum. comedians from start to finish of every thread :-)

my engine is as quite as can be from idle to redline??

will do. How do you then reset the ECU. Do i need to reset it. Would it reset if i took the battery off, and pressed the brake down, then reconnect the battery again?? plus wouldnt i have noticed things wrong if the timing was retarded and the car was in safety boost?? Guess i will notice the difference once its out of safety boost.

but ifi was running in safety mode wouldnt my boost gauge be only hitting the halfway mark on the scale?? it is roughly one bar from the end of the gauge having only ever driven one z i wouldnt know the difference between normal and safety boost. are there any tell tale signs of safety boost also would i be right in thinking that the car would now be running very rich thus costing me a lot more in fuel than it should be?? thanks

also my car is a jap import my boost gauge only shows from -7 to +7 boost goes to just under +7 one bar from the top to be precise not sure how this compares to the +14 gauges

so isnt it potentially risky to just bypass the sender if the ecu has had a report of pinking / detting. Replacing the sensor with a resistor will still allow the detting to take place but nothing will inform the ecu of this?? having just said that im sure a multimeter will show me whether there is a problem with the wiring which could eliminate detting from the problems..

oh and by the way everybody, im now a fully fledged member having found out just now that i could pay by bank transfer. so no more being a cheapskate for me....

yes but in thick mans terms what does this mean on a day to day driving basis ??

After reading that almost 30-40% of zeds seen are running in safety boost i decided to do an ECU test tonight. Having never done one before i might of gotten this wrong but any help to explain would be appreciated. accessed the ecu turn the ignition on but didnt start car. Turned pot fully clockwise - waited 3 seconds and turned back. I then get three long flashes and four short flashes. I assume this is a code of 34 as this cycle of three long and four short flashes just continues. Having read the ecu test help page i have found the following... 34 Detonation Sensor circuit The detonation sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered). Harness and connector Detonation sensor could anyone elaborate???? thanks

and im sure you will be worth every penny once i turn up. Especially if legrath makes me a lovely custom double din dash like his as a show of good faith :-0

i live 80 miles from cardiff and i was told that SWZ is somerset. Travelled to teignmouth recently and this turned out to be a 350 mile trip. So 300+ miles in the Z will cost at least £70 probably more. Average mpg of around 14-15 4 litres in a gallon 1 litre of super unleaded is 97p 97x4 = 3.88 15 miles per 3.88 3.88 x 20 = 76 so roughly £76 cheers

and if you cant understand why he asks for other peoples opinions because only his opinion matters, then why butt in and give your opinion??? Because thats what forums are for. Asking for advice and opinions.....

give me a third of what you car looks like and i will be very happy

only joking ofcourse. will have to get it booked in for a check up

most definately. But with me being in wales it is a 300mile round trip to get to legrath and back. that alone is going to cost me £500 in fuel.

do i sound like a fool if i say im a little scared about getting a report done??

not what i wanted to hear, but i think you are all talking complete sense. i would be mighty pissed if i had a piece of metal sitting on the drive that looked the business but didnt work. Anyone on here know what sort of money im looking at leaving the car with someone like paul to have a minor overhaul??? Having never had any engine work done i have no idea on pricing... I do know that the cambelt service just topped £500 though

i know its probably a bit naive but is engine work really that important. i know it is for peace of mind but isnt there a good chance that a well looked after and well serviced car will be in pretty good condition anyway? my main problem is that im not aware of a Z specialist where i am, south wales so i dont really want to take it to any old grease monkey to have the engine worked on. whereas there are plenty of people local to me who are good bodywork people

got to go for the bigger brake option and will probably go with a set of coilovers, without both of these my 19" wheels will look pretty shite i think. problem is where to start and more importantly where to end. im sure i could spend this 5k coupled with the 2k of sounds in the car totalling 10k including the car and if i went to sell it the day after i finished everything to it i would probably be lucky to get 4k+

to be honest i find the car quick enough for me as it is and its rare i have it out of hold mode.... im not going to wack the boost up or buy anything to try and get a quick rise of 30-40bhp as advertised on ebay. im more interested in just getting the outside and inside looking smart and neat. Ive priced a kit up from zcentre for £750 and fitting and respray will cost me £750 providing i stay the same colour and dont have engine bay and boot and so on painted. So that with the leather means im looking at £2250. Add the wheels and im looking at around the 3k mark as im owed a favour from someone who works for a wheel company. What sort of engine work am i going to get for £2k?? as i have never asked about this before, but i didnt imagine i would get a lot done for this price. cheers