Geoff

Hi Jock, Sent you a message. The chip is normally the 3rd upgrade, after the Induction and Exhaust (see the FAQ section). It is not needed because of the exhaust change. You should feel the benefit from the better breathing and cleaner extraction. The chip allows the turbos to boost higher, generating more bhp and money for the insurance company. Normally the chip has a remap to keep everything (most things) under control with the higher boost, although you should not exceed 1 bar without further modification first. The boost level can initially be controlled by jets, but a Boost Controller is highly recommended as the 4th upgrade (ignoring at your peril the suspension and brakes). Cheers, Geoff

Hi Jock, I have one of their made up/templated systems on my Paul Bailey kitted 2+0, and it looks and feels a quality product. Unfortunately I have not done any miles yet, but the sound when running is good, a nice deep note, not loud (but they can tailor this for you). They were recommended by Paul himself, and make his exhaust systems. Mine was actually made down in Cardiff, but as you most probably know a branch is in Wallington (020-8669-1719). (Fyi, I work in Croydon). Ciao, Geoff

Thanks for your help. I spoke to Peter - nice guy and plenty of good advice. Vijay, your car is the only one so far as it is "such" a job. Peter has a trusted man, and advised me to talk to my bodyshop, which I did. When I spoke to my bodyshop they have a trusted man too (who handles all their fragile classic windows, etc...). The garage are arranging for this good contact to come in next week. Thanks, I was a bit stumped and smarting a bit as to why the garage did not sort this out with the bodyshop. Thank goodness for this site!!! Dave, I have a 2-seater with a smaller import rear window, hence no "cheaper" UK equivalent. [For anybody who is interested, I have a couple of low grade photos in my Rides of my (now) blue car - sorry about the sizing]. Geoff

Hi, Can anybody help with information. My garage phoned to say that the guy that does their window replacement has been in and looked at my car. The rear window seal was cut back for a respray, and now needs replacing. He is very concerned as the Rear Window is a very tight fit (and bonded) into the hatch frame. He thinks he is likely to damage the glass in trying to take it out (and it is a very expensive item - Import 2-seater coupe). Any knowledge or advice? Is there a specialist in the SW London area for this kind of thing? Thanks, Geoff

In some markets I think the GTT is an automatic version of the GTS. A colleague at work has a GTS on an "R" plate up for sale in AutoTrader. He bought it in New Zealand, and brought it here with him. A bit more than an "M" reg though.

Which Porterfield pads do you guys fit on the front? R4S - fast road; R4 - race compound?

Ahh well. It is only once a year!

Killusty, but I did Goguenard as well. Good luck (from a once a year punter).

Hi, The Greddy site also has the Instruction Manuals (PDF files), and also has the details of the UK dealer: SVS (Special Vehicle Service) 7 Bishopsmead Parade East Horsley, Surrey, KT24 6RT, UK (0148) 328-5657 I have spoken to Tim the owner a couple of times, and he is always very helpful - if you get stuck, you could give him a try. Good luck, Geoff

Vijay, Very nice. Certainly will turn heads. PPT certainly do 'deep' colours. Clarkey, Standox Silverstone? Just wondering, as I have not seen a good/natural photo of that flip colour. Geoff

Interesting thought - does anybody know how the Anti-Skid system works, and also the aftermarket Traction Control? If the front to back circumferences go too far out between the front and the back, could there be a possibility that one of these systems kicks in? The wheels would be turning at different speeds, and there perhaps is a recommended tolerence? The limited slip works okay without problem, but this is on the same axel.

Hi Iain, Looks great. I prefer the shape. I see what you mean about filling the underwing slot (but where will the tow bar slot in for that caravan now?), and it looks a really good job (Peter?). Works well with the exhausts! Neat reversing light too. Gets my approval. Geoff

Hi, Looking for some information about the Rim Edge Protectors that a number of Tyre Manufacturers add to the outer sidewall (Toyo, etc..). I am thinking about S03s. The Bridgestone S02s use to have this protector, but does the replacement S03? I think I remember an old post hinting that it may have been dropped? Appreciate any information about the S03. Also about alternatives, as I think I will need this extra help (narrow road parking, etc...). Thanks, Geoff

I fitted BSR-Aerotech ones, but had some trouble getting them sorted out, as you can see in the following link: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5946 . They managed it in the end. You will see that an alternative manufacturer (cannot remember the name) are available from Smithy (Cybercraft), Luke (Z-Centre) and Jeff TT (ZedWorld), and do have the interim fixings needed. This is a useful link: http://www.ttzd.com/tech/lines/lines.html Geoff

Ahhhhhrrr, so it is possible to shoe-horn a Skyline engine in!! Interesting solution to the radiator positioning. Are those Mazda MX indicators? I wonder what the weight difference is? Anybody fitted a Rover V8?

David, See this link: http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=gi&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=18&design=default&total=25 I think your mate is mis-quoting the Z32. The 300ZX is a V6 and very compact in the engine bay. This gives our cars a shorter length 'nose' than many other cars. You will see that the Skyline has a longer bonnet and this caters for their straight-6 engines to be fitted. I suspect it is not possible to fit a Skyline engine into a 300ZX/Fairlady. Geoff [i should add that the R32 was the 'first real' Skyline - straight-6 - many consider this early model the best].

You may want to contact TopLess. Mark is converting his N/A Converable to a TT. Geoff

My son had a 1.8 HLX on an R-plate, manual, for 12 months until he needed an auto at the end of last year (girlfriend's licence). I was very impressed, it was a beaut: nice size, good finish, nippy, great styling, and dark metalic blue. Like others I have had Italian cars before and had problems (e.g. Alfa - blown engine, ... after a string of other problems, etc..) and tried to stop him buying the Bravo (a mistake obviously). It was a great rust free car, and I would not be put off by the stories/experiences with other Italian cars. The one thing I would say is that you will find the parts/servicing expensive (compared to other 'family sized' cars). If you want to talk to somebody about the car, I can put you in touch - just let me know. Geoff

My car was delivered from the importer with new Nankang tyres all round. They are a Korean company, and you can find their site on the web. I found them a hard compound, which was okay in the dry and for a very long life. I was very uncomfortable with them as soon as the roads got damp or rain. Unless they have changed (this was 2 years ago), I would spend a bit more and get one of the recommended makes. I have. [i still have the tyres (and wheels) if you want to make me an offer?] Geoff

....And this may help, which I picked it up off of a post on one of the other BBs (Ben's Aus forum) and covers an import:- Audio Wiring colour codes made easy! Here are the colour codes Ground - black accessories - red permanent battery - yellow rear right positive - brown rear right negative - black/red (2 of these!) rear left positive - blue rear left negative - black and white front right positive - orange front right negative - black and purple front left positive - green front left negative - black and yellow Antenna - black and red (test these out because there are 2 black/red wires)

I 'consulted' Creech Coachtrimmers in Crystal Palace soon after getting my car. They have undertaken a number of first class vintage and classic car restorations (been going years), saving where possible the original leather. My leather on the driver's seat had started to crack and starting to look tiried compared to the passenger seat. They were not impressed with the quality of leather used by Nissan, and said I had to do some "intensive nourishment" if I was to save the leather. Highly recommended was Gliptone Liquid Leather (mentioned also by Vijay, with a link), and it was REALLY IMPORTANT that it was 'pH FREE' (not many products are). Also you should choose a warm day, and best to work in with the finger tips, if you don't mind doing this. (I was shown the technique!). I had to do this fortnightly for two months, and then return for it to be checked to see if I should continue.... Doing something is better than nothing, but thought you might like to hear what the experts said. It worked (and no, I don't do massages!!). Geoff ;)

Oh.........wide arches and few other bits. I have a film to develop, and then I can put up a couple of photos. There is a picture of the new rear in my 'rides'. Geoff

Hi Iain, I wish I had some news, but I am still waiting. "Two weeks" they say! Geoff

This may help also? 41003E just comes up as invalid part# for the R34 (UK). Geoff