icu812

Anytime is fine with me also.

Then, I expect you would remember that the allowed tolerances during manufacture are clearly stated on the drawing, usually in a manner similar too:- "All dimension tolerances + or - 8 microns unless otherwise stated" And manufacturing tolerances are set before the design stage, by the manufacturer not the designer and will depend on the accuracy of there production equipment. There are not subject to change, due to the issues it would eventually cause in parts manufacturing, engine build process, product reliability, and power output stability. You should know then, that any part manufactured outside it stated manufacturing tolerances will not pass the quality inspection process. Your interpretation, but definitely not mine. But hey, on you go. A silly remark, I don't think so. But feel free to prove me wrong. Post up a set of "Master Copy" CAD or MAC engineer's drawings for a Japanese engine of the era this thread. Not just make simple blanket statements By Mugen, I presumed it was the same company that took over Honda's F1 engines, when Honda pulled out of F1 around the early nineties. The company started by a family member of the Chairman of Honda, his son or grandson I believe. Shorley it might be prudent to follow your own advice. It quite hypocritical of you not to. I feel that if you are going to give advice, Mark, it's better to give accurate advice, than inaccurate advice, using incorrect terms in a blanket method. I believe, I didn't make condescending or snide remarks in my first post, but only tried to correct a common misconception. Again, perhaps you take your own advice. If someone tries to give a more accurate definition of a term, and explain what it really means, rather than taking offence, then posting in a condescending and patronizing way,in an attempt to belittle anyone that disagrees with you. Hence the reason you got a taste of you own medicine in my second post.Try reading the post calmly and comprehend the difference. We're all wrong sometimes, even you. If you want to continue this perhaps you would prefer to do by Pm as offered in my second post.

I love this question, For starters you cannot Blueprint a Japanese engine. Why because Japanese manufactures do not release the original CAD "drawings" of there engines, without the original drawing you cannot reproduce the engine as drawn. Which is what Blueprinting is. Secondly a tolerance is only the allowable variation on a Dimension. Between design and manufacturer the engine design will go through the Tool shop, where Dimensions can be change, if the engine design is not viable for mass production, e.g. part of the design cannot be cast efficiently, a redesigned, will take place at the tool shop, this normally involves flattening any sharp or pointed surfaces. Here, surface finishes will also be changed, trust me as changes from machine or polish finish to a cast one, regular take place. Its the tool shops job to turn a design into a financially and economical product. The best you will be able to to do is stage the engine, i.e Port and polish, enlarge the inlet and exhaust valves, skim the head to increase the compression ( not necessary for turbo cars) and have the bottom end lightened and balanced. If you ever get a company offering to "Blueprint" an engine ask to see the drawings the going to be working too.

No Marco, the subframe just unbolts, drops all you front suspension aswell. If you need any welding done give us a yell at work.

If you want to recover tweed seats with real leather, try these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/89-99-NISSAN-300ZX-REAL-LEATHER-SEAT-COVER-FREE-HEATER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33702QQihZ023QQitemZ360001643134QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD2V Take about 5 days to deliver, at £130 there good value for the money.

I think you'll find its was more to with the rules for the class it was raced in that anything else.The shortie's wheel base is to small for that particular class.

The only thing left really are the front trailing arm bushes, rear lower arm bushes and the ARB's. I guess if you going the full hog you may as well do them too.

I got rid of the airbag wheel on mine, I got the boss off dan at DTA, it was the only one I could find that had the correct fit and attachment to make the ecu think the airbag was still there.

Thanks, but not likely, touches wood hurriedly :nelson: , the zeds to placid for that. I mean its got proper suspension, not a live axle and leaf springs, like the old capris and escorts I spend my first 10 years driving, I've only ever owned 1 front wheel drive car. Now back with a proper car, engine in front, drive wheels at the rear. :D

lol Good motto, but in my case I use it were it matters, engine oil change every 3 months transmission oils change every six, if it needs anything changing , it gets changed, no expense spared, not that it ever needs much. :D Horses for courses. But, as I said before, you spend more time cleaning and polishing if you own a red zed,lol

Just gets a good wash every now and then

My post is not flawed mate, I ref; you to this post http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=100673 I think it proves my point :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: lol, red owners spend all day with the polish.

I cannot see the point in it. I much prefer to control the car with good throttle and clutch control.

And there's you problem, anyone with a red zed spends all weekend polishing it (just to keep it red) :headvswal , the rest of us spend our time doing what you supposed to do................. DRIVE 'EM. :hyper: As far as the debate on which is best, I would presume, the zed you drive, is the zed you prefere, other wise, why did you buy it.

I'm surprised you think its worth more than what his asking, it's a Z approaching 19 years old and an auto, no mention of mileage, which probably means it's high. There's no mention of any service history, never a good thing with a turbo, years of abuse and no servicing, could leave anyone who buys it facing the big bills to bring it back to a good standard. As he seems to sell cars, he's lack of descriptive selling, gives me the impression there's not a lot of good things to say about the car. My personal opinion is that I'd give it a wide berth, you may not even make you money back if you tried to break it.

I've got them, they are well made, and a good fit. I didn't need to anything with them except spray them and bond them on. Wiring them is easy although you need to take the wing mirrors apart to run the cable through. Although they look best with darker colours, were you get the contrast, they're nice on silver but look naff on white, but that's to be expected.

Your forgiven :D :rofl: It one of the nice thing about a 300zx, a mate of mine had to shell out £80 to have his air bag light reset on his Audi, then was pig sick when I reset mine with the drivers door switch :rofl:

Er no it doesn't. You can reset the air bag light by using the drivers door switch see here http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=896169&words=air%3a%3abag%3a%3alight for the know how

Renewed by paypal a couple of weeks ago, could you please reactivate my profile Many thanks.

Renewed subscription Via Paypal

Have them on mine aswell and its a '92

Grey Alcantra in mine and it '92

Most paint shops won't mix less than 1/2 litre , the thinners and hardener come 1/2 litre tins and your probably need a 1 litre of lacquer, you need approx. twice the amount of lacquer to paint, plus its handy to have extra if your not happy with the finish. Cost would be about £45. Some paint shops won't sell DIYer's 2k though. If it was me, I'd also prime the bonnet after I'd rubbed down the old paint, just to make sure there's not reaction with the old oxidised red paint. If can find or know of a good independent body shop, if you prep the bonnet they would charge in the region of £200 to spray the bonnet in.

Thanks Royal, glad you like it. I was happy with 211.5 BHP on the rollers too, untill Gaz rocks up late and posted 216.5 :rofl: Def not bad of a pair of 15 year old cars