keith5700

Do you mean this sort of project?

John. Am still thinking about doing this rad mod to mine while it's in bits. Is the rad a standard Pace item or did you have it made to your spec? I'm guessing looking at the angle of the pipes that it was a special. when you say bigger than the Koyo do you mean thicker or taller or both? Cheers.

Not as much as I would...

I was a bit worried when I came to shut the bonnet, but it closed fine with about 10mm clearance all round. I'd measured as best as I could beforehand and made the plenum to follow the lines of the bonnet. The standard Chevy tpi setup wouldn't have fitted, hence having to make a plenum. Thanks John.

Thanks again. Some interesting ideas in that lot. Just a few answers in order....engine is 6.3 litres, looking for 500hp and 500torque to start with. Hopefully this will be enough to keep me happy once and for all. If not I'll probably set it up for say 600+ but would only really be happy with that if I was to put forged internals in, which won't be cheap, so hopefully 500 will do. Pipe issue not exactly holding me up at the mo, just trying to sort things out at the top end and then the engine has got to come out for balancing. Put some different pistons in after Iblew it last time. They are only 7grams heavier so thought they'd be ok but there is a bit of a vibration at 4000+ so going to have a look. Have made the balancing rig, just waiting for the drive motor to arrive. Ally box method in place of oval bend could work. might try a couple of sketches first. Got to look right tho. The s/c can be clocked to point upright but will not do it in the 300 engine bay. Nowhere near enough side room. It gets a lot wider as you spin it. 45° pipe welded onto the s/c outlet is veeery interesting. Going to measure that one up shortly. Dont want to use an intercooler. Have gone with water/methanol injection instead. This Emerald K3 ecu looks brilliant. It can store 3 maps which you can switch between while driving. My plan is to have a mild map for normal driving and then a more aggressive map (timing advance mainly) for max hp. The water injection should stop the engine blowing up with more advance but relies on the water keeping flowing. So I've got a flow meter to measure the water being injected. When the flow is above a set value then the flowmeter can switch the ecu to the other map. if the jets block, or water runs out it will revert to the safe map. That's the theory anyway. will know in about 3 months...

Thanks everyone so far. That rover v8 pipe looks handy. My mate's into rovers so I'll pop round tomorrow. That viperperformance place looks good too, cheers.

Thought of that but there's no way to get a pipe across from the s/c to that side, unless it went right round the back of the plenum.

Can't see a way round the back. That tube place looks good for the future but for this bit I don't think any bent tube is going to be any good. The problem is that the bends have to be so tight that the inside radius of the bend will be zero. Nothing will bend a tube that tight so it's either a cast ally elbow off something, or the only other thought I had was to make a wooden former and get a silicone hose maker to mould a hose round it. would rather not go down the hose route tho', tried that before and it looked w@nk. Best compromise would be an ally bend welded onto either bit, then a reducer, and then a 90° silicone elbow. So just one ally cast tight elbow could be all I need.

Just mocking up the new plenum and intake and just about got the supercharger to fit. Inner wing needed a brief appointment with Mr. Lumphammer, but got about 1/2" clearance on s/c body now. Worked out how to fit everything apart from the intake pipe. The mismatch between the s/c outlet and the intake elbow is severe. Tried all my bends in metal and silicone but nothing anywhere near close. The diameter reduces from the intake to the s/c also. I was wondering if anyone had any ideas on anywhere to search on the net or anywhere for some really tight bends. Could be cast or plastic. Or any cars which have a really tight elbow fitted somewhere as standard. Ta.

Very interested to see how that rad performs John. My koyo doesnt seem to be very good at all on mine. when going fast it gets very hot, which it shouldn't. I think it's cos the air isn't going thro the rad very well because it can't get out of the engine compartment fast enough. Could be completely wrong tho. LS7, dinosaur? Wish I'd got one.

So how do fighter planes manage to fly upside down? It's all due to the angle of the wing. Same as helicopter blade profiles. The aerofoil sections are almost symmetrical upper and lower and create hardly any lift at zero degree angle of attack.

The flaps (ailerons) on the wings of a plane don't make it go up or down. Wings are fixed with an upward tilt, say 4 degrees. This gives the plane enough lift to fly when up to speed. If more lift is required then the whole angle of the plane needs to increase, to increase the angle of the wing. This is done by the flaps (elevators) on the rear wing (tailplane).the rear flaps go up, the tail goes down and hence the angle of the plane and front wings go up. The flaps on the main wings are mainly used for controlling the side to side balance, and for braking. For a car wing you just use the same shape aerofoil as the plane does but turn it upside down and point it ,say, 4 degrees nose down.

Thanks once again for the favourable comments chaps. Makes all the slog worth while.

LOL Better chuck your computer away then, it's going to get a lot better before I'm done.

This is for the Chevy engine I'm running at the mo' , but it's on a carb. Need to change to injection before I fit the supercharger. I had to make this plenum as I don't think the factory ones would fit. This one follows the underside of the standard z bonnet exactly. Just a few shots of various ops on the milling machine first, to hopefully show what a pain it all was. Not doing another before anyone asks! Cutting faces parallel to get a nice datum and create a bit more room Boring entry holes for runners Fitting sideplates Chobbling away sideplates to save weight Fitting baseplate Finished job 2 weeks later, after countless hours on the milling machine, then drilling, tapping, peen texturing, polishing and tarting up the Edelbrock inlet and runners, which were pretty shoddy out of the box.

There's 2 things going on here. From what I've read a spoiler doesn't add any appreciable downforce. It's purpose is to 'spoil' the air flow over the top of the car so that the flow rejoins the flow from under the car further back. ie, away from the car. When the upper and lower flows join up they create turbulance which causes increased drag and buffeting if the turbulant air is in contact with the back end of the car. The spoiler flips up the flow slightly so the joining point is further back. Also, and even more boringly, the centre of drag of a car, when viewed from the side, should be behind the centre of gravity, so that the balance is sort of self correcting when subjected to side winds, or corners even. Remember those rubber lips stuck to the back of the rear side window on later Sierras? All they did was create drag, which moved the overall centre of drag further back and make the car more stable. If you want to create downforce then you need to fit a wing, ie, an upside down aeroplane wing, as far away from the bodywork as possible.

Jesus! What an absolute bag of w*nk. " Just fitted a new master cyclender"??? Gotta love those rear wheelarches tho!

That's with. About 210kg without.

Looking good! How are you getting on with the wiring? Mine was a flippin' nightmare.

OK cheers both. Need to get a variable voltage source then.

As some of you will know I'm not using the speed sensor in the g'box, or the original speedo, so have left the rest of the electronics to sort out the steering weight. What happens is that after starting up the steering is very light, very nice to get out of the drive etc, and after about 15 secs the steering goes heavier and stays the same for the rest of the journey. The actual driving weight is fine but it would be nice, and hopefully simple, to have a switch to revert to lightweight mode on the odd occasion. Looking at the circuit the steering computer seems to take in various signals to activate the lightest weight, ie. handbrake on, but putting the handbrake on has no effect on the weight. Anyway, before I have to start pulling wires and figuring out exactly how it all works I was wondering if anybody already knows, ie. how could I manually switch in the lightest mode? Cheers.

Not sure what else to photograph. Might be able to poke the camera through the bumper and take a shot of the brackets bolted up. Looking at the pic it looks like I made a small extension piece from steel flat bar and welded that to the original brackets first, and then welded the boss to that. The rounded bit just poking through the cover is the bottom of the Nissan brackets. Just take the 2 brackets off and weld them together and make a plate and boss and weld on. The drop distance will depend on how low your bumper is.

If this has been done before then please ignore. I wanted to create a towing point which could be used with my aftermarket front bumper. I welded the 2 original towing brackets together to increase their strength, and then made up an M12 threaded boss and welded that to the bottom of the brackets. The boss just pokes through below the undertray. The towbar thingy is just a bit of 50 x 6 flat ally bar with a tow rope attached. When I need a tow, (hopefully never) I'll just bolt the plate up and away we go. The bolt length is such that it bottoms out in the boss just before clamping the plate fully, so the plate can swing a bit during towing.

Thanks again everyone. cheers. I'm in Allestree mate.

There was a thread last year detailing some of what's involved. Don't know how to put a link up but if you search for 'nordskog' then it will come up. Both the panels were milled from 1/2" ally plate tho so would be a bit tricky or expensive to copy it in too much detail. I used thick plate so I could sink the dials in to get the front faces flush, as I hate sticky-out dials. Also the centre console ones are angled down slightly and to the right about 10 degrees each, which is fairly simple (if you've got a milling machine) and makes a better job.