ROLY

thanks for all the replies - i have read so much about the wiring that just as i think i have found something i have missed a try it and its the same

how can i check - is there anything i should have done with the wiring that goes from the auto shifter - i dont get the noise of the fuel pimp either - its just quiet

no mate, i changed as little as i could and just cant think what else i have disturbed - i just cant help thinking about the alaram or something to do with the autobox cut out

i have almost complted my manual conversion but cannot get the car to start - all lights are on and evrything electrical seems to works but nothing at the starter - i have fully charged the battery - i have checked the connections at my starter and they are tight (it was my original starter so i know that to be alright) - i found the thread on the starter relay bypass which i have done (put a wire in the connector with the black/yellow wires) - i have tried the gearstick in all positions - i have tried the neutral switch connected and not - i have a toad alarm/immobiliser - the rest of the alarm is working fine and i didn't knowingly disconnected anything - i am out of ideas - any help would be sooo great dave

many thanks to all - i can move on to the next stage there was a slight burr on the inner edge that a must have made when knocking it in - clutch tool in sweet as a nut - much appreciated

thats great - i have ordered a new bush along with more bits - it is possible that i did damage it but a great idea about the chamferring - many thanks for the replies this forum is a godsend kind regards dave

i think it is bronze and i tapped it into place with a same sized socket- when it was all packaged up it was on the allignment tool end so was baffeld as to why it does not fit now - the bush looks a perfect fit - i would have thought that if it were damaged in fitting it woul be all out of shape or kinked - thanks for the replies dave

Hi I am in the middle of my manual conversion and cant say evrything is going smooth but it is getting there. I have an uprated clutch to fit - it came with all bits including allignment tool - in the packet was the new spigot bush sitting on the end of the tool - now bush is fitted (and it was ok to fit) the tool is way too tight and i cant push it in at all - i dont want to sand it down as then i know the geabox input shaft will not go in - what has gone wrong now and what can i do - do i have to get a new bush - is it possible this has reduced size as being fitted - if it has to come out and a new one in how do i get that out --oooohhh sooo many questions -- any help greatly recieved dave

lovely - thanks mate

hi, getting ready to install flywheel etc as part of manual conversion - do i need to use the spacer (just larger than the ring of 8 bolts) that came off the auto flywheel regards dave

after playing with the multi meter i came to the conclusion that the black wire from the one connector/loom under the bottom is the live feed to the reverse light swith - the green wire (same connector) goes to the other wire on the reverse light switch as this is the feed/signal when in reverse - the black live also provides power for the neutral switch - i plan to chop the connector from the manual neutral switch, extend the wires and put the original plug on from the auto loom and connect into the grey connector on the started loom - hope tp use the connector - not sure if thats right but hopefully clever people will answer and put me right many thanks dave

many thanks dave

i have searched every thread i can and possibly started to confuse myself with different scenarios - as i understand it after the manual box is in i only have to wire the reverse lights and sort out the neutral switch - from what i gather the two wires from the remaing inhibitor switch go to the reverse lights but what wire goes to the neutral - some leave it but i dont want the hassle with the base timing out - do i need to bother with the starter relay in the inner wing on the clutch does everyone bother with the booster side - i want it easy to drive but is it much more hassle to fit all the bits kind regards dave

all spot on - 5 mins with a good hammer and chisel and out it came - better than the toffee hammer i was messing around with many thanks all - next question i will imagine would be the wiring or clutch installation dave

thanks soo much for all the suggestions will give them all a go - jeff if you can order me an arm like the first chap that would be cool (in fact i will have 2 as i would look odd with one - or more odd than already) kind regards dave

hi, started early - auto box off but i cannot shift the auto pilot bush for love nor money - i have not gone mad but i have tried for about 45 mins tapping/hitting the outer edge with a hammer and chisel trying to "coax it out but it does not move - any one with any great tips as i do not want to damage anything would be much appreciated dave

Thats great - starting thinking i was going to fail at the first hurdle - i really appreciate the help Jeff kind regards dave

Hi, i have just started the prepping for the attempt at the manual conversion - i have removed the cover hiding the fixings for the clutch pedal/booster assembly and there is a large wiring loom from the alarm going through it - the wires go everywhere so does the large hole have a air tight seal when the clutch system is in or can i enlarge the hole (like a v in the bottom) to house the wiring loom as well - hope that makes sense - otherwise i will have to cut the wiring loom and rejoin about 30 wires - many thanks dave

will do mate - many thanks

Hi, i need a clutch for my upcoming conversion - i was hoping to get a good uprated for about the £250-£300 area - is this possible? are the xedy clutches any good - do i reaplce with the nismo spigot bearing or standard (oohh a whole new world of complications) i know the rps is highly rated but i was not hoping to spend that at this time regards dave

lovely - many thanks for that dave

god that was quick - to recap as i am having dim day - the second halves of the prop are the same length on both its just the physical length of the prop from axle to joint that is short on swb - can i buy a clutch release bearing and input shaft bearing seperately or do i have to buy a complete kit - and do i need the new started or are manual and autos the same - so greatful for replies dave

hi, i know a bit premature but i am still getting hold of the stuff - the conversion kit i am after is for a tt swb and mine is lwb - the clutch is almost new and uprated and the guy was good enough to mention that there is a rumble when clutch depressed which he though was normal - not doubting anything but i have never even driven the manual version and would like to get any issues ironed out where poss before fitting - thanks for the reply

i am starting to get the bits ready for an manual conversion - will a swb prop or the bit off it i require fit a lwb and there is a noise when the clutch is depressed (is this normal) like a rumble - any help always appreciated dave

Hi John, many thanks for the running around - without digging around for all items required will he be able to include evreything incl all bolts - centre console bits and gaiters etc - could he give me an indication to the age mileage of the clutch and is it ok for a courier pickup - the most important thing is how does he want paying - do you want me to call him or do you want the sale and communication to continue through you thanks again dave