TopLess

Don't squeal much if you break them in properly bud.

Can't remember now if the NA pads are slimmer, but they are the same shape.

Best performing pads are ds2500.

From Garrett's website here http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/tech_center/turbo_tech101.html Oil & Water Plumbing The intake and exhaust plumbing often receives the focus leaving the oil and water plumbing neglected. Garrett ball bearing turbochargers require less oil than journal bearing turbos. Therefore an oil inlet restrictor is recommended if you have oil pressure over about 60 psig. The oil outlet should be plumbed to the oil pan above the oil level (for wet sump systems). Since the oil drain is gravity fed, it is important that the oil outlet points downward, and that the drain tube does not become horizontal or go “uphill” at any point. Following a hot shutdown of a turbocharger, heat soak begins. This means that the heat in the head, exhaust manifold, and turbine housing finds it way to the turbo’s center housing, raising its temperature. These extreme temperatures in the center housing can result in oil coking. To minimize the effects of heat soak-back, water-cooled center housings were introduced. These use coolant from the engine to act as a heat sink after engine shutdown, preventing the oil from coking. The water lines utilize a thermal siphon effect to reduce the peak heat soak-back temperature after engine shut down . The layout of the pipes should minimize peaks and troughs with the (cool) water inlet on the low side. To help this along, it is advantageous to tilt the turbocharger about 25° about the axis of shaft rotation.

You slaappeerrr :D

If its a top up you should use the same oil that is already in it.

I would agree, the car has been given a fair bit of stuck to go through an RPS max clutch, although it is chucking out in excess of 550bhp, if you wanted to be ultra sure then put in a twin plate?

Can you confirm what clutch it is, IIRC it was an RPS max and RPS flywheel?

The cam seals are the usual culprits in that area, not sure if stu had a ss one piece clutch line made, but if he did you may as well remove all the old clutch pipework?

Turbo oil feeds are banjo fittings, the oil cooler clips are better than jubilee clips but if they are rusty they are usually kaputt !

It is slightly unusual for the front crank seal to go, I would maybe check the pcv system and upgrade to the one on tt.net, what are the other hoses leaking, turbo oil feeds or the oil cooler?

Where's the oil leaking from?

They are more accurate ways of tuning a car, but one hub dyno in particular is renowned for giving dynos figures that makes the customers smile:wink:

The only thing with Hub dynos is they give a greater bhp figure than normal dynos, because of the reduced weight and lack of slip and one in particluar is renowned for giving inaccurate figures:crying:

LOL next thing I will be drilling new bracket holes for tension rods:angel: Technically the fuel pump will be oversupplying the engine and sending it back to the tank, I didn't say it would be overfuelling the engine, for the sake of running one extra wire and getting a fpecu that probably costs ten quid, why not have the fuel system running as it is meant to.

WIth that setup the fuel pump will be oversupplying the engine the efficient setup is, TT ECU--NA Loom with third wire for the three speed pump--TT Fuel pump ECU--TT fuel pump !

Why don't you give the place a ring you bought the clutch from?

Greddy Infometer, top stuff :D

With all due respect I will have to disagree with Mr. Bullet on this one, although I don't know what clamping force your upgraded clutch is, if you let us know this we can make a conclusion. I presume you are keeping the NA rear end so the clutch will subject to even more torque than normal!

You know the engineer who is making the ones you have for sale, if he is willing to make his name and address available to forum admin in case of issues then I think that would reassure people. I think it would be difficult to get an informed opinion on a forum about a piece of engineering, unless you have some guarantee about the materials involved and the quality of the welds.

The only person who can answer if they are safe is the engineer who constructed them????

Really it is yourself and the engineer who need to ensure this, if there is any accident then there is a possibility you guys could up in the dock!

The NA clutch will last about 5 mins in a TT, na ecu and na fuel pump ecu are not the best setup as the fuel pump will be running a lot faster meaning you will be running rich and therefore underpowered.

At what stage of the TT swap are you? Best one is the last with the third wire running between the TT ecu and the TT fuel pump ecu.

there are different decat pipes around so unless you know what type you have we can't tell you if they will fit?