Has anyone who has installed an RPS max clutch had troubles bleeding the clutch? My mechanic has tried for a day and a half to bleed it and its still not right!

 

I've had everything replaced apart from the Master cylinder which includes RPS flywheel, braided hose from hard pipe to slave and a new slave cylinder. It can change gear with the engine off but with the engine running it won't change gear.

 

He's running out of ideas even after speaking to Jeff at Zedworld and Nissan!!:headvswal

you have bleeded it from the nipple behind the driver side headlight aint ya???

Yep, its been bled from all locations in the correct order aparently

Bent fork ?

Has anyone who has installed an RPS max clutch had troubles bleeding the clutch? My mechanic has tried for a day and a half to bleed it and its still not right!

 

I've had everything replaced apart from the Master cylinder which includes RPS flywheel, braided hose from hard pipe to slave and a new slave cylinder. It can change gear with the engine off but with the engine running it won't change gear.

 

He's running out of ideas even after speaking to Jeff at Zedworld and Nissan!!:headvswal

 

Best change the master cylinder then. Its probably not producing sufficient pressure to throw the clutch out enough.

Im assuming you have adjusted the rod on the master cylinder to full throw.

sometimes lengthening the slave push rod helps.

Maybe this will help

http://www.specialtyz.com/clutchadj.htm

smithy

It all went together ok, had the uprated pivot ball too and before changing it the clutch was silky smooth appart from it slipping under load. The fork must still be ok

Maybe this will help

http://www.specialtyz.com/clutchadj.htm

smithy

 

This is well worth checking/adjusting

 

The RPS clutch is firmer than stock and you 'may' have had a weak fork which 'could' have bent when you removed the stock and fitted and used the RPS

I'll ask him tomorrow if he's adjusted the throw at the master cylinder, I didn't know there was adjustment there! He said he's adjusted the rod on the clutch pedal, I think he's going to try and back off the switches as it says in the link Smithy provided.

 

Has everyone who has the RPS Max clutch had to adjust both for full throw?

I'll ask him Paul, he'll love to take that gearbox off again :)

I'll ask him Paul, he'll love to take that gearbox off again :)

 

I'm sure he will :headvswal

Just going through possibilities :nelson:

Make a longer rod in the slave cylinder.Had the same prob but this sorted it out just fine.

ive got the rps max and i bought the single braided hose straight from the master to slave, makes bleeding sooooo easy. That oem clutch hose is too thick and big etc and makes bleeding a nightmare. the rps is much firmer, your master/slave should be in good condition and rememebr to use dot 3/4 i used 5.1 and it screwed the slave seals.

 

When your bleeding with the old crap try pumping the pedal up and down quite fast while someone underneath releases and tightens the nipple continuously like once ever second to get some pressure in there. have another person at the other nipple do the same but obviously at different times and get them to keep topping up the fluid too.

Cheers people :) decided the next move is a new master cylinder and braided line from master to slave. I should of paid the extra and got the carbon clutch! :headvswal

Make a longer rod in the slave cylinder.Had the same prob but this sorted it out just fine.

 

i would try this as it the easy way to see if fork is bending just use a longer push rod and apply pressure slowly as some one takes a look from under side

I have the RPS max, and had a few hiccups trying to get it right, took a while but thanks to wow300 and snoopy managed to get the pedal adjusted and now its perfect