How will having the EGR removed effect emissions for the MOT test, will have Cats on car for Test.

 

Cheers Guys,

It shouldn't. EGR valves were only really fitted for US federal regulations. Some states subject their cars to yearly smog-checks....bit like our emissions test, but a little different in how they test.

 

I've had my EGR deleted and it had no problems. Well within UK emissions regs.

....I've also still got my cats on too and a buggered o2 sensor, soon to be replaced.

It shouldn't. EGR valves were only really fitted for US federal regulations. Some states subject their cars to yearly smog-checks....bit like our emissions test, but a little different in how they test.

 

I've had my EGR deleted and it had no problems. Well within UK emissions regs.

 

Cheers, i'll make up some plates then!

I'm ripping out all my AIVs too over the winter. :)

I'm ripping out all my AIVs too over the winter. :)

 

Yep, get all the stuff out thats over engineered, cuts down on leaks and maintenance!!

 

Lol, thought you said you where at a loose end with the zed in the other thread!!

I am, but I still have a list of things to keep me going. Over the winter, some of my plans are as follows.

 

AIV delete

Recirc valve cleanout

CTS to be replaced

O2 sensors to be replaced

AndyP/JD chip to be fitted

Boost controller

Gloss-black painted roof bars

4 way amp for the speakers (yet to be purchased)

Fit my current amp and sub

Light tint on the rear screen

White LED dash conversion, courtesy of groover-industries

New windscreen scuttle panel

To get rid of any last annoying squeeks and rattles (an ever going challange with the Z)

Engine dress-up (subtle).

I am, but I still have a list of things to keep me going. Over the winter, some of my plans are as follows.

 

AIV delete

Recirc valve cleanout

CTS to be replaced

O2 sensors to be replaced

AndyP/JD chip to be fitted

Boost controller

Gloss-black painted roof bars

4 way amp for the speakers (yet to be purchased)

Fit my current amp and sub

Light tint on the rear screen

White LED dash conversion, courtesy of groover-industries

New windscreen scuttle panel

To get rid of any last annoying squeeks and rattles (an ever going challange with the Z)

Engine dress-up (subtle).

 

Sounds like a good fettlng regime,

 

I'm being dense and it's late - CTS?

 

Can the Det sensor be gotten rid of? it's a bit useless at the RPM you need it at!

CTS is coolant temperature sensor. It's one of those things that could give false readings over time. In the cars I've had in the past, I've always treated it as a servicable item, so replace them. A messed up CTS can give you all sorts of fueling/performance issues. Seems to be reading ok on ConZult. But it's difficult to tell as you don't really know the exactly temp of the coolant at the same point the sensor is....don't trust stock gauges! So it could be out. I want to eliminate that variable and want my car running 101% before I started entering the realms of upping the boost. It's the best way IMHO.

 

Det sensor can be bypassed. with a resistor. I forget which ohm. I didn't, I bought a new loom. It's the loom that tends to fail more than the sensor.

CTS is coolant temperature sensor. It's one of those things that could give false readings over time. In the cars I've had in the past, I've always treated it as a servicable item, so replace them. A messed up CTS can give you all sorts of fueling/performance issues. Seems to be reading ok on ConZult. But it's difficult to tell as you don't really know the exactly temp of the coolant at the same point the sensor is....don't trust stock gauges! So it could be out. I want to eliminate that variable and want my car running 101% before I started entering the realms of upping the boost. It's the best way IMHO.

 

Det sensor can be bypassed. with a resistor. I forget which ohm. I didn't, I bought a new loom. It's the loom that tends to fail more than the sensor.

 

Wise words, is that different to a thermostat?

 

Ok, i've heard of the resistor trick - is that so the ECU has a healthy condition from the det regardless?

Yeah, the CTS is electronic and gives the ECU a reading to which it has pre-determined algorithms assigned to a fuel map at that temperature. IE, if it's cold, the ECU will richen the mixture and when warm will lean it out a little. Thermostat blocks the flow of coolant round the engine allowing it to warm up quicker. When the engine is cold, coolant won't flow round the engine. But once up to temp, thermostat opens.

 

It's all in the name of reduced engine wear. An engine that can come up to temperature quickly is one that will have less wear, oil is at the correct viscosity for it to work properly. It's why I've never understood people that drive their car out of the garage and just let it sit there to warm up, thinking they are doing a good thing for the engine. Doing more harm than good. Engine's doing no work, oil is staying low pressure and cold. Top end has little oil flow. I get in my car and drive it straight away. Keeping off the boost, but gradually building the revs until oil pressure has dropped right away.

Edited October 25, 200817 yr by FunkySi

 

Ok, i've heard of the resistor trick - is that so the ECU has a healthy condition from the det regardless?

 

That I'm not sure of as I've never had any det problems, from either the electrical side (the sensor/loom) or mechanical (it actually detting). Legrath might be able to answer that one.

Yeah, the CTS is electronic and gives the ECU a reading to which it has pre-determined algorithms assigned to a fuel map at that temperature. IE, if it's cold, the ECU will richen the mixture and when warm will lean it out a little. Thermostat blocks the flow of coolant round the engine allowing it to warm up quicker. When the engine is cold, coolant won't flow round the engine. But once up to temp, thermostat opens.

 

It's all in the name of reduced engine wear. An engine that can come up to temperature quickly is one that will have less wear, oil is at the correct viscosity for it to work properly. It's why I've never understood people that drive their car out of the garage and just let it sit there to warm up, thinking they are doing a good thing for the engine. Doing more harm than good. Engine's doing no work, oil is staying low pressure and cold. Top end has little oil flow. I get in my car and drive it straight away. Keeping off the boost, but gradually building the revs until oil pressure has dropped right away.

 

Right ok, i've not come across that, looking over the manual now. learnt something new again.

 

Yeh, i'd say your spot on, mine loosens up and runs much better if i giving it some gentle loading right from the off!

 

who'd be best to talk to about dry sump apps?

Dry sumping? Probably John Dixon or Legrath.

That I'm not sure of as I've never had any det problems, from either the electrical side (the sensor/loom) or mechanical (it actually detting). Legrath might be able to answer that one.

 

Ok, cool, i think i will ask out of interest!

Dry sumping? Probably John Dixon or Legrath.

 

Yep of course, i'm getting tired now!

 

cheers for the help!

CTS is coolant temperature sensor. It's one of those things that could give false readings over time. In the cars I've had in the past, I've always treated it as a servicable item, so replace them. A messed up CTS can give you all sorts of fueling/performance issues. Seems to be reading ok on ConZult. But it's difficult to tell as you don't really know the exactly temp of the coolant at the same point the sensor is....don't trust stock gauges! So it could be out. I want to eliminate that variable and want my car running 101% before I started entering the realms of upping the boost. It's the best way IMHO.

 

Det sensor can be bypassed. with a resistor. I forget which ohm. I didn't, I bought a new loom. It's the loom that tends to fail more than the sensor.

 

Found it, its the sensor that sits on the water pipe?

Yup, There should be two on there. Smaller one is for the dash clocks. Larger one is the CTD. Usually a yellow-topped connector.

Yup, There should be two on there. Smaller one is for the dash clocks. Larger one is the CTD. Usually a yellow-topped connector.

 

Thats the one, ok yeh! little by little we get there!!

That should have said CTS! LOL....but I am sure you knew that anyway!