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Ok heres a vid of my throttle sound when blipping, hard to hear with the video but you can see that when blipping it takes a few milli seconds before it revs which makes it difficult to pull away sometimes, I also want andy to have a look at the aiv solenoid bypass i done, Just to be sure its correct.

 

[YOUTUBE]16ZsWQzfLYs[/YOUTUBE]

 

There were two solenoids which i disconnected ones the aiv and i think the other is the egr which is also bypassed, I relooped the hosing straight to the intercooler hardpipe and tied up the electrics, the stock boost controller has been connected straight to the balance bar with the red tube you see.

 

There is however a long small pipe coming from both wings going into a T piece im assuming these are the hoses that go to the aiv tanks, Can i disconnect these? Just want to be certain

 

Ive bought, changed and fixed:

fpr

pcv hoses

cured every boost leak

changed intercoolers

changed ecu

changed chip

switched maf

switched PTU

New temp sensor and connector

Been on conzult with no probs

Timing bang on 15 degrees

and loads of other stuff i just cant remember at the top of my head.

Edited September 16, 200817 yr by j1mmytt

silly question, have you cleaned your thottle bodies ?

silly question, have you cleaned your thottle bodies ?

 

They are immaculate mate :D

 

Forgot to mention that the idle will not run below 800 even when adjusting? just stays bang on 800 or so even when adjusting the screw the idle with sit lower but when you reconnect the connector it shoots back up to 800-850 or so?

Edited September 16, 200817 yr by j1mmytt

have you tried a new tps, could be a worn channel on the old one

have you tried a new tps, could be a worn channel on the old one

 

Had it on consult and tps reads perfect.

But maybe worth changing it as they are only cheap.

Its probley got a cold:D :eek:

Damn, I was going to find you a spare PTU and MAF - I forgot - do you still need them ?

Damn, I was going to find you a spare PTU and MAF - I forgot - do you still need them ?

 

No its fine thanks andy :D ive done the ol switcharoony, they are not the cause.

 

Just an update, duffers said the loop i made from the throttle body to hardpipe is incorrect and the nipples need to be capped so thats the next step.

Edited September 16, 200817 yr by j1mmytt

have a listen for any any air leaks, to give you an idea pull say a vac pipe off the balance bar for a few secs. There is alot of air lines, i have junked most of mine.

Your mate seems to like the sound of the engine!

have a listen for any any air leaks, to give you an idea pull say a vac pipe off the balance bar for a few secs. There is alot of air lines, i have junked most of mine.

Your mate seems to like the sound of the engine!

 

There are no air leaks:D I wish it was the prob but its not. :( Ive done an air leak test after every thing ive tested and changed and ive been very anal.

Yeah my mate looks like he loved it a little too much haha.

Edited September 17, 200817 yr by j1mmytt

you may have done this , simler prob on my twin turbo jag i sprayed carb cleaner on the pipes after a time found a small air leak ?

Im gutted i expected Gino D’Acampo's voice or similar!:D

 

dan.;)

Im gutted i expected Gino D’Acampo's voice or similar!:D

 

dan.;)

 

Well i have got a cold :(

>> T piece im assuming these are the hoses that go to the aiv tanks, Can i disconnect these? Just want to be certain

 

yes, as you have disconnected the AIV solenoid these hoses have become obsolete as well.

 

can't really hear what the problem is in the video, as the soundquality is very poor, but do both throttlebodies open the same amount and at the same moment ?

(or in other words: are they synchronized ?)

 

>> but when you reconnect the connector it shoots back up to 800-850 or so?

 

this is normal..the ECU will try to get the idle close to 850 rpm when the engine has warmed up.

 

You can try is to disconnect the secondary TPS connector (the one on a seperate wire) for 10 seconds while the engine is running.

This will reset the throttle switch setting in the ECU.

>> T piece im assuming these are the hoses that go to the aiv tanks, Can i disconnect these? Just want to be certain

 

yes, as you have disconnected the AIV solenoid these hoses have become obsolete as well.

 

can't really hear what the problem is in the video, as the soundquality is very poor, but do both throttlebodies open the same amount and at the same moment ?

(or in other words: are they synchronized ?)

 

>> but when you reconnect the connector it shoots back up to 800-850 or so?

 

this is normal..the ECU will try to get the idle close to 850 rpm when the engine has warmed up.

 

You can try is to disconnect the secondary TPS connector (the one on a seperate wire) for 10 seconds while the engine is running.

This will reset the throttle switch setting in the ECU.

 

 

 

Yep i disconnected the aiv tank hoses earlier today. got about 2 metres of spare hose which may come in handy at some point :D

 

throttle bodies do open together, i equalized these a while back, if i done it properly is another story.

 

Idle should sit at 750rpm why it goes to 850 is strange, even tho i set it to about 650 with valve connector off it still rises to about 850 tryin to get it to sit below that just wont work, hmmm maybe dodgy tps then?

well, the tps has been mentioned 3 times now, maybe worth changing

well, the tps has been mentioned 3 times now, maybe worth changing

 

£30 or so am i correct?

not a lot more, deffo worth a try