Should the AVC-r solenoid valve run at 0% duty cycle until it hits positive boost? My engine is running badly, very little chance of hitting +ve boost so I can't actually test it.

 

I've taken the stock boost solenoids out and am running lines directly from the wastegate actuators to the COM side of the solenoid and from the intake hardpipes to the NO side. I can't help feeling this is too simplistic and another pair of vacuum lines is needed somewhere - has anyone else set up successfully this way?

 

Any help appreciated.

 

Cheers

 

RobH

Your not hitting postive boost at all?

No, it's running like a bag of s***, not sure if it's because the solenoid's not working or connected wrong that it won't hit +ve boost or whether the solenoids not working because it's not hitting +ve boost - chicken/egg thing..

and it was boosting positive b4 fitting the controler?

I've been using the AVC-r successfully for years, the only change is that I pulled the engine to replace turbos and whilst it was out I cleaned up all the pipework I could, this included removing the stock boost solenoids. AVC-r was plumbed into the stock solenoid pipework previously, they were just disconnected electronically. The stock solenoids used a 3 way connection whereas the AVC-r only uses 2.

Im not an expert but sounds to me that if the gauge is not passing 0 then the turbos are not working or you have an intercooler pipe off.... they should still boost to what the actuators are set at even if they boost controller is plumped in?

Yep, I agree, problem is that the thing is running so badly that I can't get it past about 2500 rpm - difficult to hit +ve boost at this sort of engine speed - particularly when it's running so badly. If I boot it it pops and bangs and gives up.

if its not passing 2500rpm then the maf has packed up mate. thats more than likely your problem. firstly id check connections clean them and clean the maf sensor but be very careful and use a contact cleaner.

It's quite different to a knakd MAF, it will rev ok (though not great) to 4000+ when in neutral, under load (in gear) it really struggles and gets worse as more throttle is applied.

sounds like a HUUUGE vacuum leak. Have you done a boost leak test yet?

 

Hows the compression?

hmm...I did consider this when I first had problems, can't hear anything around the engine bay though and the engine has recently been. I'm pretty sure everything has been reconnected correctly.

 

Actually I have a question about that, if there's some valve overlap, wouldn't it be impossible to pressurise the system unless you block up the exhausts??