Guys,

 

I know ive spoken to a few already about this, but im still not sure.

 

The kit that has been fitted is:

 

RPS Street Max clutch

Z1 Flywheel

New release bearing, uprated pivot ball and pilot bushing

Stainless Steel braided clutch line

 

Work that has been done so far by the garage:

 

All the bits fitted,

Clutch system bled for a good 3 hours

The adjustment on the clutch pedal box has been "pushed in" to its furthest point.

 

The symptoms are:

 

Heavier than usual clutch pedal (espec for the RPS) with No spongeyness

Very difficult to get into gear

When i do get it into gear, the biting point is virtually in the carpet.

Slave cylinder is NOT leaking externally

 

SO, whats causing the biting point to be so down the pedal travel and the clutch to be heavier than what i remember for an RPS clutch?

 

over to you

Mine was like this but biting point bit further up, was happy with the heavyness as felt new and nice...mine wouldnt go into gear at all at first til adjusted pedal, was all fine but no freeplay then started slipping, so looked to adjust to give some freeplay and realised the adjusting bar had come out of its thread on the pedal so Dave n Jay put it back how it was meant to be....but now the bite is on the floor like yours and lots off spongy freeplay, but the main thing is it doesnt slip:) I hate it like it is and have insisted that it gets bleed then adjusted slightly which I know it can be as it was wound right out so I hope after bleeding it it will be ok...being done saturday will let you know..worth checking your adjusting bar hasntcome out like mine did

Did you adjust the cruise switch back to allow the pedal to come back?

I personally havent touched the clutch pedal adjustment (the garage have), but the pedal has a consistant feel and springs back as per normal, but the biting point is literally in the shagpile and even when the pedal is fully depressed, in first gear the clutch is still gripping the flywheel and moving the car forward

This will help

 

http://www.specialtyz.com/clutchadj.htm

If the clutch is biting on the floor and dragging then it probaly still has air in the system.Try pumping the pedal several times then engaging the clutch and seeing if it goes in easier.if it does then your system still needs bleeding.The clutch pedal is assisted by a servo like the brakes.it should loosen up if the engines running.

If you want to bring the car over nick, I have a pump for bleeding the clutch!

deffo eases up when the engine is turned on. If you put the pedal to the floor with the engine off, then turn the engine on, i can feel the servo assist kick in and the pedal gets a fair bit lighter. Makes no difference if i pump the pedal jimmer, im fairly confident its got no air left in the system.

 

Dave i think youve probably sourced the problem. Ill give it a whizz and let you know

The cruise control switch is at the top of the movement, so adjusting that will not change the biting point but adjusting the pedal rod like we talked about will?

I fitted a stiffer than stock clutch, had problems with it ,so bought a brand new slave cylinder, which solved it.........but when driving for quite a while the clutch started to slip so I replaced the seals in the master cylinder.

Problem is now solved the seal kit was about £30ish and the cylinder was about £30ish, IIRC.

I don't really know about the stiffness of a RPS Clutch though.

There is the usual adjustment on the pedal. There is also the clutch resting point adjuster....but there is also an adjustment on the booster shaft (for want of a better name) where it enters the clutch master cylinder. You only have a few mm of adjustment, but i can make a noticable difference. You have to remove the clutch master cylinder to get to it.

 

The stock cluch system with the excessive 1.5m of clutch piping is a PITA to bleed though. Its well worth ripping it out and having a single Braided Master to slave pipe.

Edited July 24, 200817 yr by Yowser

Nick I think the mistake eurospec made was adjusting the pedal to achieve what they thought was better bleeding of the system, bring it back to normal and try it out from there?

So the plan of action so far is, re adjust the pedal back from its extreme setting, and try adjusting the threads on the switches. Ill probably use the sz guide that dave put up as it seems quite comprehensive and its not something ive ever had to adjust before.

 

Just out of interest, I dont have cruise control, will i still have the threaded adjustments where the switches are supposed to be?

 

Mark, ill try the main adjustment rod first, if that dont work, then ill try the adjustment on the switches as well. Cheers for all your help and advice over the phone :D :duffer:

Edited July 25, 200817 yr by nickz32

So the plan of action so far is, re adjust the pedal back from its extreme setting, and try adjusting the threads on the switches. Ill probably use the sz guide that dave put up as it seems quite comprehensive and its not something ive ever had to adjust before.

 

Just out of interest, I dont have cruise control, will i still have the threaded adjustments where the switches are supposed to be?

 

Mark, ill try the main adjustment rod first, if that dont work, then ill try the adjustment on the switches as well. Cheers for all your help and advice over the phone :D :duffer:

 

Mine not got cruise but has the switch, but only have the one for some reason...you need to adjust switch/es b4 main rod thats where we went wrong in the first place,(i think) I'm sure Dave or Jay will be along shortly to correct me if I am wrong...good luck

Right,

 

Ive adjusted all the rods on the clutch pedal, and the rod going into the cylinder is now at full extension, and the biting point is now about an inch off the floor. Im still not happy its right, but at least the car is drivable.

 

Is there any reason why the biting point is so low down the pedals travel??

Right,

 

Ive adjusted all the rods on the clutch pedal, and the rod going into the cylinder is now at full extension, and the biting point is now about an inch off the floor. Im still not happy its right, but at least the car is drivable.

 

Is there any reason why the biting point is so low down the pedals travel??

 

New clutch....it will wear up as clutch wears in I think

cool.

 

Just got to sort my boost leak out now :(

mine was actually feeling ok today,still floor biting point but sure it will be much better tmw after it has been bled right thru with new fliud...i hope

Providing the adjustments are done exactly as per the link wow300 posted up http://www.specialtyz.com/clutchadj.htm then no extra and later on bleeding should be required.

smithy

Well I havent bled mine at all, so once its been done tmw I am sure mine will be perfect...its not slipping thats the main thing:)

Providing the adjustments are done exactly as per the link wow300 posted up http://www.specialtyz.com/clutchadj.htm then no extra and later on bleeding should be required.

smithy

 

Smithy,

 

would it make ay difference that the clutch rod into the master cyl was adjusted BEFORE it was bled?

 

I dont know why they did it, but the garage adjusted the pedal before bleeding.

 

Cheers

Well mines been bled and it feels the same, floor biting point so I guess thats it, adjusted pedal a tiny bit but has made no difference. I think mine is exactly like yours Nick so I think thats how the are meant to be, however it doesnt feel a heavy clutch at all like people have said it would:confused: just going to run it in for a bit and I think its done

Smithy,

 

would it make ay difference that the clutch rod into the master cyl was adjusted BEFORE it was bled?

 

I dont know why they did it, but the garage adjusted the pedal before bleeding.

 

Cheers

I wouldn't have thought so, but i don't do these things, i have a man who does, lol that said, maybe all air should be out of the system before adjustment etc.

Lisa, something deffo ain't quite right still with yours, the MAX especially for a woman is definately heavier.it should not have a low biting point either.

Do you know if your mechanic did the adjust exactly as per the link, in particular releasing the locking nuts first ? that is the most important part, otherwise adjustment is all wrong.

smithy

I wouldn't have thought so, but i don't do these things, i have a man who does, lol that said, maybe all air should be out of the system before adjustment etc.

Lisa, something deffo ain't quite right still with yours, the MAX especially for a woman is definately heavier.it should not have a low biting point either.

Do you know if your mechanic did the adjust exactly as per the link, in particular releasing the locking nuts first ? that is the most important part, otherwise adjustment is all wrong.

smithy

 

My mechanic only adjusted the rod and not the switches and it was rock hard on the pedal then with no freeplay, then started slipping so we knew something was wrong. I then read that link and told wow300 about it so then he and snoopy put it back to the way it was before my mechanic adjusted it, adjusted switch as only got one...?cruise control one then the rod til it was just going in gear, it now has about 2 inches of free play and biting point is about inch off the floor but not heavy at all

Edited July 26, 200817 yr by lisaf

Wow300 says it is heavier, maybe its just me cos I have got used to it after it being rock solid to start with

Wow300 says it is heavier, maybe its just me cos I have got used to it after it being rock solid to start with

Yer not a bodybuilder are yer :D

Nowt wrong in a woman having strong legs imo.......

smithy