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Just tested a different MAF/AFM.. Started fine, let it warm up, revved fine.. Thought I would put some boost through it, the BOV'S blow of twice.. Then the engine just dies, engine warning light came on.. Now won't re-start..

Tried the original AFM back in.. Still won't start :rolleyes:

When fitting a different AFM, does the battery need to be disconnected to reset the ECU?

 

Any help/advice greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks :(

Edited by GUMBALL3000

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PM me your address again Ian and i'll overnight the CAS on Monday, i'm house sitting at my parents just now but its only down the road from my house so i'll nip home tomorrow and get it.

Is there a guide on how to remove and refit the cas on here.. I can't find anything?

 

CAS is held in place by 3 10mm bolts, 1 either side and 1 underneath. The CAS once removed or replaced needs to go back in the same position, so using a pencil draw a circle tight around the 2 side bolt heads which sit on a slotted flange, that way you just re fit ensuring your bolts go in the same place.

So once removed ( maybe a bit tight to pull off for the 1st time), with the black connector still attached, turn the ignition on and at the back of the CAS is a spindle, simply turn the spindle slowly and you should hear the injectors clicking under the plenum, if not then you know it's kaput.

When re fitting a replacement, do the same test again before fitting, clicks are heard, all is okay, no clicks and assuming the replacement is good, tends to suggest a fault in the connector or wiring.

 

The ECU will throw up it's latest error codes, even though one maybe not be a problem now, so i would expect one of the codes you just got to be from the last time she was a non starter.

So first off, i would re set the ECU and then check again for what error codes you get, just in case.

smithy

  • Author
CAS is held in place by 3 10mm bolts, 1 either side and 1 underneath. The CAS once removed or replaced needs to go back in the same position, so using a pencil draw a circle tight around the 2 side bolt heads which sit on a slotted flange, that way you just re fit ensuring your bolts go in the same place.

So once removed ( maybe a bit tight to pull off for the 1st time), with the black connector still attached, turn the ignition on and at the back of the CAS is a spindle, simply turn the spindle slowly and you should hear the injectors clicking under the plenum, if not then you know it's kaput.

When re fitting a replacement, do the same test again before fitting, clicks are heard, all is okay, no clicks and assuming the replacement is good, tends to suggest a fault in the connector or wiring.

 

The ECU will throw up it's latest error codes, even though one maybe not be a problem now, so i would expect one of the codes you just got to be from the last time she was a non starter.

So first off, i would re set the ECU and then check again for what error codes you get, just in case.

smithy

 

 

Thanks for that Smithy :)

  • Author
CAS is held in place by 3 10mm bolts, 1 either side and 1 underneath. The CAS once removed or replaced needs to go back in the same position, so using a pencil draw a circle tight around the 2 side bolt heads which sit on a slotted flange, that way you just re fit ensuring your bolts go in the same place.

So once removed ( maybe a bit tight to pull off for the 1st time), with the black connector still attached, turn the ignition on and at the back of the CAS is a spindle, simply turn the spindle slowly and you should hear the injectors clicking under the plenum, if not then you know it's kaput.

When re fitting a replacement, do the same test again before fitting, clicks are heard, all is okay, no clicks and assuming the replacement is good, tends to suggest a fault in the connector or wiring.

 

The ECU will throw up it's latest error codes, even though one maybe not be a problem now, so i would expect one of the codes you just got to be from the last time she was a non starter.

So first off, i would re set the ECU and then check again for what error codes you get, just in case.

smithy

 

Thanks for that Smithy :)

 

 

Removed the cas.. Turned the spindle, and no clicking whatsoever.. BIGSSS (Steve) has very kindly donated a replacement cas (free) :bow: :bow:

So should be a bit further foward Tuesday or Wednesday (depending on post).

Will keep you updated.

 

Many thanks again for everyones help/offers of help/advice thus far :bow::bow: What a superb club this is!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:)

  • Author

WOOHOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :hyper:

Fitted the new CAS (can't thank you enough for the CAS Steve, you rescued me in my hour of need, and will not be forgotten!! :duffer:) :bow: :bow: :bow:

She fired up first time, and sounds sweet as a nut.. Boosting up fine, with level tickover :D

My temp gauge is sitting lower aswell, so Smithy advising to check the temp sender connections seems to have also worked, but prepared to buy a new sender incase :)

I'm resetting my ECU now (I beleive a couple of hours disconnected does this job?) and will recheck for error codes, hopefully there won't be any.

 

I beleive this was my problem last time aswell, and the CAS just decided to work again for a short time, but it was fooked.. The spindle had no resistance, and just spun freely.

 

So, many, many thanks again guy's.. Your help was invalueable!! :bow: :bow:

Thanks mate!!

Did you polish it?.. It looked brand new on the spindle side :)

 

Its lucky i still had it as every spare i had i put in the car before it went.

I'm forever leaving car parts lying around the house which drives my wife mad so she must have put it away in a box that i just noticed last week:D

WOOHOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :hyper:

Fitted the new CAS (can't thank you enough for the CAS Steve, you rescued me in my hour of need, and will not be forgotten!! )

She fired up first time, and sounds sweet as a nut.. Boosting up fine, with level tickover :D

My temp gauge is sitting lower aswell, so Smithy advising to check the temp sender connections seems to have also worked, but prepared to buy a new sender incase

I'm resetting my ECU now (I beleive a couple of hours disconnected does this job?) and will recheck for error codes, hopefully there won't be any.

 

I beleive this was my problem last time aswell, and the CAS just decided to work again for a short time, but it was fooked.. The spindle had no resistance, and just spun freely.

 

So, many, many thanks again guy's.. Your help was invalueable!! :bow: :bow:

 

 

:hyper: :hyper: now when am I going to 'was it you' .... :slap:

:D :D :D

Just read this Matey. Have you got a water temp sensor yet. I have a couple of good one I'll send you one if you still need it.

  • Author
Just read this Matey. Have you got a water temp sensor yet. I have a couple of good one I'll send you one if you still need it.

 

Just resetting my ecu Mark, so will see what codes it throws up this time.. One of the wires broke while I was checking them, so put a new end on it, so that may have been that problem.. Thanks mate, will let you know :)

 

 

 

:hyper: :hyper: now when am I going to 'was it you' .... :slap:

:D :D :D

 

I will be out and about alot more now Athene.. You won't be able to miss it.. It's currently got a white gel coat front bumper, and a silver vented bonnet, with black bodywork ..lol

I will be out and about alot more now Athene.. You won't be able to miss it.. It's currently got a white gel coat front bumper, and a silver vented bonnet, with black bodywork ..lol

 

oh you'll fit in at Hedge End then :D :rofl:

 

Drop us a line we'll go for a spin one day! :hyper:

:dance:

CODE 55

:nana2:

 

:dance::dance::dance::nana2::nana2::nana2:

Well done mate, you were a good student :D

However it ain't over yet cos the fat lady ain't singing, lol

Remember at the start you said the AUX fan wasn't working, well it's one of the least used parts in the engine, but is one of the most important.

Should that sensor be cruded up, broken or you remove the connector, the ECU has no correct reading for the temps, it will always assume the car is overheating even if it isn't. The engine then dumps excessive amounts of fuel in to help cool things down ( this is why zeds can flood easily) and then turns on the AUX fan.

So soon spend some time figuring out why it's not working, this link should help http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/tech/auxfan/auxfan.html

The other good thing about this fan working correctly, cos it can noisey, you only have to switch the ignition on and if you hear the fan, then oopps, you a problem and if you've even had to start the car :cool:

Again though, well done you stuck with it and she's making you happy again.....

smithy

  • Author
Well done mate, you were a good student :D

However it ain't over yet cos the fat lady ain't singing, lol

Remember at the start you said the AUX fan wasn't working, well it's one of the least used parts in the engine, but is one of the most important.

Should that sensor be cruded up, broken or you remove the connector, the ECU has no correct reading for the temps, it will always assume the car is overheating even if it isn't. The engine then dumps excessive amounts of fuel in to help cool things down ( this is why zeds can flood easily) and then turns on the AUX fan.

So soon spend some time figuring out why it's not working, this link should help http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/tech/auxfan/auxfan.html

The other good thing about this fan working correctly, cos it can noisey, you only have to switch the ignition on and if you hear the fan, then oopps, you a problem and if you've even had to start the car :cool:

Again though, well done you stuck with it and she's making you happy again.....

smithy

 

 

Ooh.. Good point, I had forgotten about the aux fan.. I shall investigate that one further.

Thanks again Smithy :)

  • Author
Ooh.. Good point, I had forgotten about the aux fan.. I shall investigate that one further.

Thanks again Smithy :)

 

 

Sorry Smithy.. How do I test the fan is working?

Is it simply pull the yellow plug off, with the ignition on, and the fan should come on?

 

Thanks :)

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