Well I'm hoping this is a teething problem rather than the worst case senario.

As you know I'm currently running the car in after an upgraded engine build.

 

 

I drove the car for about 2 - 3 miles at low speed probably 40 mph max when I noticed the car was starting to overheat (i.e. 3/4 on the temp gauge). So I pulled into Tesco car park to investigate. I suspected an air lock as the fan was still running. I put the heater on max and it was coming out very hot so I left it on to take some heat out of the engine. I monitored the temp gauge and it started to drop a little so I thought it would be ok to turn the engine off and let it cool before checking the water level. After turning the engine off I started to hear a hissing from the back of the engine. The hissing grew louder and steam started to appear. The steam turned into a big cloud and then water started literally pouring out of the car from underneath. because of the amount of steam I could not get close enough to try and see where it was coming from, but by looking at it it looked as though it was the drivers side at the back of the engine. I left the car to cool down for 45 mins and then filled her up with 2 liters of water (she still had plenty of room for more). Started her up and got her home (1/2 mile distance if that). Temp gauge seemed ok, not getting too hot, but then when I turned the engine off again I could here hissing from the same place. It was getting dark so I left it until morning. In the morning the radiator took another 3.5 liters of water. Where it had been raining there was also a rainbow effect on the driveway under the engine maybe some oil as well. So I checked the oil and it's dry as a bone.

 

So what should I look for and what tests can I do. I've already spoken to someone about this who thinks it's either heater matrix feed or driver side turbo feed.

 

As a side note, the most boost I have run so far is 0.30 psi as I'm never going over 3k rpm. I have electric fan and did have before the engine build, which actually runs cooler on my car than a viscous.

 

I have three things I'm thinking it may be at the moment. 1) Heater matrix pipe - but then I was still getting hot air form the heater, 2) Turbo water pipe (drivers side), 3) head gasket failure (I really hope it's not this - but was concerned about the dry dip stick and the oil on the driveway).

 

Any input would be great.

I think u need to bleed the air out the rad using the plastic grub screw. I had a similar although less serious thing on mine. I've still not got to the bottom of the oil leak, but its not too bad

Im no expert but suggest you put some oil in,engine would get hot if very low on oil.as it hepls cooling as well.

I think your right about the water hissing/leak........can you see any damaged pipes from heater matrix or turbo water pipe. Is it possible to run it up on drive keeping close look for oil leaks,find out where its coming from.

Oil already topped up. Water topped up, Started her up for 10 mins revved to constant 2k, turned her off, topped up water again, hopefully got rid of any air locks now.

 

Just wanna make sure I don't have a leak.

 

Going to check the turbo feed pipes on the weekend, well I'll be checking most pipes that I can get to. Anyone know if halfrauds do any sort of universal pressure testing kit ?

I finished work early today so decided to get the car up on axles and find this leak and also check the underside out while I was at it.

 

Good news is there is no oil leaks. I did have a minor Power steering leak which when the engine dumped it's coolant it made nice rainbow patterns on the floor, fooling me into thinking it was engine oil.

 

Power steering leak was just a pipe which needed a new clamp. Sorted that.

 

I found 3 water leaks !!!!

 

One from the howe bottom drain tap (wasn't done up tight enough) - sorted

 

Another from the top hose where the silicone is much bigger that the top outlet of the howe rad. Made up a silcone reducer and also fitted my aftermarket temp sensor pipe at the same time - sorted.

 

The last one was the one I was looking for. Checked turbo feeds - seemed ok, checked matrix pipes then found the little bugger. I should have know because pretty much every pipe in the engine bay has been replaced with silicone where possible.

 

 

 

I can't imagine this will be that difficult to replace so I guess it's some good news :)

 

Now anyone selling after market toughened matrix pipes :)

i would love to know if any one did sell them!

 

Glad to see its nothing major stu, did you establish why the dip stick was dry?

i would love to know if any one did sell them!

 

Glad to see its nothing major stu, did you establish why the dip stick was dry?

 

 

To be honest I'm not sue if it was, the oil is so clear it's hard to tell with dip sticks. I mean by the time you pull it out to check it you rubbed off half the oil on the tube and pick up excess lol. I put a little more in just in case, not too much though, don't want to build up too much pressure.

 

I have the car up on axles at the moment. So befor eI drop her down again I'm going to get my sensor unit fabricated so it fits. I don't trust the stock gauges.

I'll be doing this tomorrow, so any useful tips or hints would be greatful.

ok all sorted.

 

I gotta say though, what a fooking pain in the butt job that was, I've lost skin on both the front of my palms :(.

 

I'm back on the road. 320 miles to go.

ok all sorted.

 

I gotta say though, what a fooking pain in the butt job that was, I've lost skin on both the front of my palms :(.

 

I'm back on the road. 320 miles to go.

 

thank fook for that mate.!!! treat her gently:)

ooh youve got filthy finger nails

 

glad to see you have it sorted bud

wey hey at last stu, glad to see it all sorted

Can I ask how long your planning on running the engine in for ??, I have never been a one for prolonged running in, if you don't get the piston rings bedded in very quickly you can end up with glazed bores and poor compression, after mine was rebuilt the engine got run in for a gentle 5 miles with with a few hard runs runs then it was off to JAE and normall driving

Hi mate Im really pleased it turned out to be something straight forward.

Can I ask how long your planning on running the engine in for ??, I have never been a one for prolonged running in, if you don't get the piston rings bedded in very quickly you can end up with glazed bores and poor compression, after mine was rebuilt the engine got run in for a gentle 5 miles with with a few hard runs runs then it was off to JAE and normall driving

 

 

Well I have been told that I should run in for 500 miles. Keeping it under 3k rpm. Then an oil change at 500 miles. Then increase the rev range by 1k rpm every 10 - 15 miles.

 

Can I ask where you got the information about running it in for 5 miles ?

 

Just for refernece the engine build on mine:

Has been rebored to 3.1,

It has weisco forged pistons,

JWT530bb turbo's,

Nismo 555 injectors,

Greg Dupree Downpipes,

Greg Dupree Manifolds,

Greg Dupree Flexi pipes,

Under plenum by pass,

ERG removal and blanking,

RPS Max clutch,

Billet Flywheel,

Single carbon fibre Driveshaft

 

All the other stuff that's been upgraded was done before.

 

What are everyones views on running an engine in with this work done to it ?

some people have different views on running in, some say put it under load straight away to set the rings and tbh we always run it at 4000 revs on start up for a few minutes as once there set there set, once this has done we have done 1000 miles run in, first 250 under 3000 revs then oil change with cheapest crappy oil then on the 4th change put decent oil in and get it mapped etc on full power :)

 

Mike

Well I have been told that I should run in for 500 miles. Keeping it under 3k rpm. Then an oil change at 500 miles. Then increase the rev range by 1k rpm every 10 - 15 miles.

 

Can I ask where you got the information about running it in for 5 miles ?

 

Just for refernece the engine build on mine:

Has been rebored to 3.1,

It has weisco forged pistons,

JWT530bb turbo's,

Nismo 555 injectors,

Greg Dupree Downpipes,

Greg Dupree Manifolds,

Greg Dupree Flexi pipes,

Under plenum by pass,

ERG removal and blanking,

RPS Max clutch,

Billet Flywheel,

Single carbon fibre Driveshaft

 

All the other stuff that's been upgraded was done before.

 

What are everyones views on running an engine in with this work done to it ?

 

Nice list of mods

 

The 5 miles was of my own calculations of how many times the pistons will have travelled by the time its done a few miles, I have never been an advocate for prolonged running in times, gone are the days when you had to put a note in your window saying please pass running in engine.

 

I have rebuilt several engines, the vg was rebuilt by a friend who I trusted to build it, non of these got more than a shake down for major problems before being driven err normally if there is such a way to drive a car. It makes little difference on what parts you fit in the engine the engine still works the same, forged pistons can give a little extra noise till warmed up but every thing else works the same, your crank still relies on oil to protect the bearings, same as the cams the valves the turbos, the oil seals bed in very quickly, every thing is protected by a film of oil and should have no metal to metal contact what so ever, so your running an engine in for a thousand miles for the piston rings.

 

I understand every one has there own Ideas of what is right and wrong and its best to stick with what your comfortable with, my engine has run fine for a year now at 17psi, one of the turbo oil seals is going but the turbo was on its last legs when it was fitted.

Are they aftermarket turbo's or stock ones you are running ?