This is really becoming annoying, one step forward and two steps back!!

 

I can't start the blasted thing now, it was starting and running ok. Now it can't turn the engine over!! Battery is fully charged and brand new (quality). Turning the ignition on results in a 'jump' but it doesn't seem to have quite enough power to turn the engine over (not even once) - almost as if the crank is 'stuck'. I've swung on the crank front bolt and confirmed that the engine will turn over without difficulty. Pulled the starter partly off and confirmed that it spins when ignition is on (haven't taken it off completely as new exhaust is right in the way). It has done this a couple of times over the last few days but next attempt has got it started to date.

 

I suspect the starter motor has given up. Can anyone confirm this please? Don't want to replace unless totally necessary.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

RobH

Check the earth connections. Do all the dash lights dim when you try to start it ?

is you're car an auto? i had this problem on a car i had (not a zed) it was theswitch on the bearbox thinking the car was in gear instead of PARK.

is you're car an auto? i had this problem on a car i had (not a zed) it was theswitch on the bearbox thinking the car was in gear instead of PARK.

 

that's a point rob - isn't yours an auto conversion... if so it could be a dodgy earth where the original sensor was connected??

Hi guys, it's a manual (converted).

 

Dash lights do dim considerably and in fact my AVC-r reboots so voltage is drained to practically nil when starting.

 

Have checked all connections and all appear to be good. I'm currently charging back up to full power again - just to rule that out. Don't see how this can be the prob though as it went from spinning the engine beautifully to not at all in an instant...voltage is still reading 12+.

 

Cheers

 

H

yeah, it is a conversion job but if it was a switching prob I'd expect no action at all when turning the key. As it is it 'heaves' (makes a noise like it's trying) and then falls silent despite still being under heavy load. Think of it like a weightlifter who gasps on the initial push and then holds his breath whilst holding the weights up - still under strain but no further sound ;-)

 

Cheersssssss!

Hi guys, it's a manual (converted).

 

Dash lights do dim considerably and in fact my AVC-r reboots so voltage is drained to practically nil when starting.

 

Have checked all connections and all appear to be good. I'm currently charging back up to full power again - just to rule that out. Don't see how this can be the prob though as it went from spinning the engine beautifully to not at all in an instant...voltage is still reading 12+.

 

Cheers

 

H

 

that's what I had - voltage should be 13.6 (i think) when turning over - I was surprised when mine wouldn't start cos the voltage wasn't appearing too low... fingers crossed all your engine starts have just drained it that bit too much...

your cyl might be full of fluid (hydrolock?). pull a plug and try turning the engine and it might push out a load of fuel that was held in your cyl. probably wise to keep a rag over the whole and remove all sparks for safety and also remove the fuel pump fuse to stop it pumping any more fuel in there. Leave this fuse out and jam open the throttle to let it dry out before trying another start or you will flood the engine again and it will be a vicious cycle.

HTH

Battery is on charge just to rule that one out. I did consider a fluid lock as it was overfuelling when it last ran, I pulled a single plug earlier, which was bone dry. Having turned the crank by hand though I can confirm that it's turning as freely as it ever did so a lock is unlikely.

 

Thanks for the suggestions, keep 'em coming ;-)

 

H

Despite you saying the battery is new it is worth trying another one or try jump starting.

 

It may then be a lzzy starter motor that won't turn under load.

 

Darrell

Had this prob with my wifes beamer 3 series, turned out to be the starter motor. It also spun when not under load, but would not turn the engine over.

Thanks guys, I'm keeping my fingers crossed for a battery recharge but think I'm kidding myself. I've priced up a Blueprint starter but they want £150 odd - trade!!

 

If anyone has a Mitsubishi or similar part number I could use to cross reference it would be much appreciated. I've found one listed for 1983 - 1994 (?!) which suggests the Z31 used the same starter, I would expect later model Z32s to also use the same part so something looks a bit fishy there...anyone know if this is true or false?

 

Also, is there a resistance test I can do on my starter?

 

Cheers

 

H

the starters from a auto fit a manual ans the sterter from a t/t or a n/a will fit when i go into the garage tomorow will get you the mitsui part no.

UPDATE!!! Rich came round this eve and we persevered with turning the crank - up to a point. Crank eventually 'locked' and pulling all the plugs revealed the pass side rear cylinder was indeed hydro locked!! Sorry to have doubted you Giant Slayer ;-). Dried it out and it started, BUT subsequently trying to start again the same thing happened again.

 

So, it looks as though number 6 cylinder has an injection problem, not something I know a lot about. Is it possible to test the injector in situ? I suspect it's stuck open (if this is possible) and is flooding the cylinder.

 

nellys300zx, thanks for your help , part number is no longer needed - hope you see this before going to any more trouble.

 

Thanks for your help so far!

 

H

Has any water got anywhere near the ECU? Had a car in the past that had - it blew the injector driver circuit and the injector was on permanently.....

Hi Mr D. No, the ECU is ok, I pulled it out a few days ago to install a NISTune daughterboard, all looked fine. Currently running a stock map with modified K constant to allow for bigger injectors - otherwise standard.

 

Are you suggesting that there is a different circuit for each injector? I'm only getting this problem in #6 cylinder although if memory serves me correctly this is the first cylinder on the fuel rail...

 

Cheers

 

H

Each injector has its own driver on the motherboard of the ECU. Has the engine run ok since you modded the ECU?

 

Number 6 is the LAST injector on the rail - feed on drivers side rear, crossing to the passenger side at the front, then backwards to the FPR

hi rob hope you get it sorted and that its something simple andys the man who can help you on this matter

Thanks to both.

 

I thought the car was running ok, but have replaced the rear pipes, the new pipes are much frutier so I couldn't tell if it was a different note due to pipes or running on 5. Seems it's been running on 5 (at best) since I got it going. I've tested the resistance of the suspect injector directly and via the loom at the ECU, that seems ok, not sure if this would identify a stuck injector but at least it rules out the wiring. I'll leave the ECU as the last possibility, I'm about to dremel and remove the possible culprit, expecting a kinked o-ring.

 

Cheers

 

H

OK, I've pulled the injector, BTW wouldn't recommend the Dremel method for anything more than 1 injector!

 

From what I can see there was no problem with the seals, lower seal remained in the plenum but appears to be undamaged. Whether it popeed straight when the injector came out I can't tell :-\

 

I now need to confirm whether the injector is permanently open, any suggestions how to best accomplish this? (CAS click test?). Do garages generally have facilities for testing injectors or do they have to go to a specialist?

 

Cheers

 

H

Absolutely no experience of these guys but a quick google came up with this:

 

http://www.thebestof.co.uk/chester/54034/1/1/the_best_of.aspx

Bit of a dead end Andy, but thanks. The guy on the other end of the phone didn't seem to know what a fuel injector was - much less where to get one checked...

 

Apparently Bal Muir in Wrexham (01978 856412 for reference) is able to test injectors but nobody's picking up at the moment.

 

Think the 'click test' is the most obvious route. Do the injectors normally operate at 12V? If so, is there any issue applying 12V directly to the terminals from the battery to check operation?

 

Cheers

 

H

ive heard that you can use a long screwdriver place on end on the injector and put your ear to the handle and and you should hear the ticking from the injector

Apparently Direct Diesel in Chester can fit ZX injectors on their bench, I'll get it checked out on Monday.

 

Have done the click test and it seems to be ok. Didn't work quite how I expected it to though. When rotating the CAS shaft, injectors only click when I stop turning the shaft (!?) Is this correct? I can't run the engine as it is so can't do the 'dynamic' click test.

 

Cheers

 

H

hi mate not sure on your last one all i know is that you should hear the injectors ticking when motor is running sorry cant be of much help mate

Ok, I've had the suspect injector tested by Direct Diesel of Chester, a bit expensive in my opinion but at least it got the job done! Injector has tested as being stuck open!! I feel a warranty claim coming on.

 

Cheers for all the help and advice guys - much appreciated.

 

H