Hi all,

 

Could anyone or anyones give me there expert advice on my engine spec so far!

 

Im looking to buy the last of the parts from Z1 very shortley but not 100% sure if im buying the right parts suited to my spec.

 

My engine spec so far is:

 

Ported & polished heads ,

Ported & polished inlet plenum,

Ported & polished inlet manifold,

JWT 400+ agressive race cams,

JWT heavy duty vtc springs,

Wiseco pistons 88.5 slight over bore,

Eagle conrods,

ACL Race spec bearings & shells,

Cometic 1.0mm multi layer metal head gaskets,

Z1 Re-build kit, ARP Head & Main stud kit,

Unorthodox lightened crank pulley,

Greddy kevlar aramide cambelt ,

Mocal 25 row oil cooler,

HKS spark plugs,

Full hard pipe kit + samco's,

Smithys braided fuel lines,

Smithys IAA valve pipe,

Koyo uprated aluminium radiator,

Large frontmount intercooler,

Greddy twin filter induction kit,

Greddy ecu imformeter,

Greddy turbo timer,

F1 stage 3 6 puk racing clutch,

F1 12lb lightend flywheel,

Nismo clutch pivot ball,

Nismo gearbox mount,

Nismo grounding kit,

Nismo thermostat,

Nismo high pressure oil & rad caps,

Apexi avc r boost controller (ltd) ,

Racelogic performance meter,

Integral det sensors with display for vg30dett,

 

Removied, Aircon system , EGR system , AIV system , Carbon cannister , Plenum water bypass.

 

Bits im looking to buy are:

 

Mike Smith Manifolds Z32 (TT)

DOOLZ (Dual Intake) TT

DOOLZ v.2 Dual-Intake extensions for FMIC

GT675RS Turbo Kit

740cc fuel injector kit & 300 degree rails

 

Either

Labree 5 bolt split downpipes

or

Labree ultimate split downpipes

http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_info.php?cPath=6_19&products_id=1627

 

Out of the 2 which size bore is best to go for they offer either 2.5 or 3 inch?

 

Is there anything you would change are anything i need to add to my spec to insure i get the best results?

 

Sorry for the big thread but i dont want to be wasting more money on wrong parts:cry:

 

Regards Dan

HKS plugs? You might be better off with the NGK 11b's

 

I went for the 1.2mm head gaskets for a little more boost tollerance.

 

You not mentioned what air filter you using.

HKS plugs? You might be better off with the NGK 11b's

 

I went for the 1.2mm head gaskets for a little more boost tollerance.

 

You not mentioned what air filter you using.

 

Hi edk83

I havent decided on air filters yet what would be best to go for?

 

This is a problem i come up with before i was advised to go for a 1.0mm head gasket even tho i told them my heads have been skimmed will it still be ok?:cry:

 

All i know about the plugs is they are iridium and heat grade 7 they worked fine before

All IMO and from experience of selling performance parts for years.;)

Mike Smith Manifolds Z32 (TT)

DOOLZ (Dual Intake) TT

DOOLZ v.2 Dual-Intake extensions for FMIC

GT675RS Turbo Kit

740cc fuel injector kit & 300 degree rails

All those are fine, however you would need the likes of John dixon to custom chip it unless you went the likes of AEM.

Filter wise i would use Apexi's on the doolz.

 

HKS plugs, i wouldn't but if your happy then that's all that matters.

 

"Either

Labree 5 bolt split downpipes

or

Labree ultimate split downpipes"

Hold off a wee while, the Ultimates would be the best bet however am aware of no one yet with a right hand drive who has fitted them without any issues and go with the 3inch version.

 

If your engine spec is not built yet, i would get the 1.2mm cometics and flog yours. expect possibly lumpy driving when fine tuning things if using the cams and i would ditch the clutch.

Finally with the finished spec and even with the doolz, I think your looking at some serious power and beyond the capabilitie's of the MAF.

smithy

All IMO and from experience of selling performance parts for years.;)

Mike Smith Manifolds Z32 (TT)

DOOLZ (Dual Intake) TT

DOOLZ v.2 Dual-Intake extensions for FMIC

GT675RS Turbo Kit

740cc fuel injector kit & 300 degree rails

All those are fine, however you would need the likes of John dixon to custom chip it unless you went the likes of AEM.

Filter wise i would use Apexi's on the doolz.

 

HKS plugs, i wouldn't but if your happy then that's all that matters.

 

"Either

Labree 5 bolt split downpipes

or

Labree ultimate split downpipes"

Hold off a wee while, the Ultimates would be the best bet however am aware of no one yet with a right hand drive who has fitted them without any issues and go with the 3inch version.

 

If your engine spec is not built yet, i would get the 1.2mm cometics and flog yours. expect possibly lumpy driving when fine tuning things if using the cams and i would ditch the clutch.

Finally with the finished spec and even with the doolz, I think your looking at some serious power and beyond the capabilitie's of the MAF.

smithy

 

 

As above:bow:

As above:bow:

 

Thanx for your replys guys:bow:

 

I will order the 1.2mm gaskets a.s.a.p i want the engine to be as relible as poss;)

 

I was going to go the stand alone ecu route as ive been told thats the only way i will get the best results out of my engine?

 

Im going to run the car in on my bog standard ecu with my standard injectors using the Maf.

Then once i have run the car in for a 1000 miles i was going to have the stand alone fitted ditching the Maf and putting the doolz (without Mafs)on and the bigger injectors!

 

Would this be the best way to do this?

 

P.s Stainless steel or the alumized stuff for the down pipes does it make much difference!

 

Regards dan

If you've got the money, then stainless would be nice and you'll know it will last..

Good idea running the engine before mapping with the standalone, likes of AEM etc, however DTA do a 740cc chip, you could run your car in using this chip and not have to worry about a full set of injector swaps complete with 300 degree kit after she's all done. Think the chip is around 80-100 bucks, job done, you could even copy the map to start the programe off for the standalone as a base point and if fitting the AEM, it's a simple 20minute job no messing with injectors etc and off you go to the mapper and already running a programe you know works well ( DTA Chip) .

Hope i've explained that right, lol

smithy

If you've got the money, then stainless would be nice and you'll know it will last..

Good idea running the engine before mapping with the standalone, likes of AEM etc, however DTA do a 740cc chip, you could run your car in using this chip and not have to worry about a full set of injector swaps complete with 300 degree kit after she's all done. Think the chip is around 80-100 bucks, job done, you could even copy the map to start the programe off for the standalone as a base point and if fitting the AEM, it's a simple 20minute job no messing with injectors etc and off you go to the mapper and already running a programe you know works well ( DTA Chip) .

Hope i've explained that right, lol

smithy

 

Thanx Smithy ill look into the chip could save alot of hassel :duffer:

 

Do you think adjustable cam gears will be needed aswell?

 

Thanx

Well fitting these will do away with the VTC function you presently have.

Cam timing is somewhat a bit more specialised, it has to be pretty much spot on, however the gains can be quite good and allows you to create almost your own power band where and when you want. I believe Zeds can run quite lumpy with this set up though, would have to research a bit more as not many even including high powered Zeds have really gone down this route, so only a small number of peeps worldwide i guess could tell you for sure.

Oh and if your a pre 94 model, you'll need cam sprocket adapters for your JWT cams (only about 25 quid)

cheers

smithy

Well fitting these will do away with the VTC function you presently have.

Cam timing is somewhat a bit more specialised, it has to be pretty much spot on, however the gains can be quite good and allows you to create almost your own power band where and when you want. I believe Zeds can run quite lumpy with this set up though, would have to research a bit more as not many even including high powered Zeds have really gone down this route, so only a small number of peeps worldwide i guess could tell you for sure.

Oh and if your a pre 94 model, you'll need cam sprocket adapters for your JWT cams (only about 25 quid)

cheers

smithy

 

I think ill leave the cam gears at the moment then.

 

Thanx for the info Smithy!

Ive already had the engine built i was just waiting for the tubs to complete. But now ill proberly change the gaskets to 1.2mm and fit the larger injectors and run a (DTA) chip you mensioned :)

 

Hopefully i will get it right this time round :dance:

 

What RPS clutc would you advise for my car?

 

Is there anything else you would change or add to my spec :bow:

Anyone?

Sorry mate didn't notice you'd asked more, just popping off for tea and i'll reply laterz for yer ;)

smithy

Sorry mate didn't notice you'd asked more, just popping off for tea and i'll reply laterz for yer ;)

smithy

 

Ok 2 sugers please:smw:

Rightyo, Unless the engine you've got built already doesn't hav ethe upper plenum and rockers on, i'd leave the gasket on you have, certainly not worth at this stage changing unless you've got a few bob spare for the added labour.

anyway that aside, the spec looks pretty good, i assume new oil pump and water pump ? if the engine is just sat there, be good idea to get new bearings fitted in the bottom now as they cost peanuts to buy, ( if not already done)

Clutch wise, well once you've run it in and mapping the car you'll be on the limit for a RPS Max series clutch, however it should last quite a while and replacement disc is about 125 quid should you wear it out. If money was no object then obviously the carbon carbon like i use, it is mega bucks aorund the £1750 mark, but you will never wear it out, drives like a stock unit and is not a paddle clutch, no other clutch company in the world gives a gaurantee like RPS do on this unit.

Non RPS, possibly the carbonetics carbon clutch is cheaper and powerfull.

Puck clutches, these hold only approx 10% more power than an organic unit, they wear out quicker, cost around 50% more to replace the disc compared to organic and are basically a paddle clutch, so on or off!

I ran the MAX series in mine for years including when JD done my mapping for 2 hours on the dyno and the guy doing the actual driving work commented on how sweet it was and able to hold the power, so maybe give that a shot ;)

cheers

smithy