Hey all,

I was fitting my indiglow dials last night and after i'd done 'em went to drill the holes in the top of the casing to pass the wires through (as per instructions). One side fine then slipped when doing the speedo side and the drill bit went right through damaging one of the components :headvswal :xxx:. It broke of to of the progs that go into the PCB and the n the thrid one fiinally gave way as i tried to rectify my stupidity.

It's a small 3 pronged blue square box with what looks like a white adjuster in the middle. There's 2 of them on the PCB and it's the one on the left that's come off! :headvswal

Any ideas what it's for what it will affect and how i can get it fixed pronto??

 

Cherz James

I have one for spares, J-spec with cracked casing, £30 and its yours if you interested

Hi james, its one of the pcb mounted adjusters for speedo calibration. The best thing to do is to get hold of another speedo, like the one meht is selling and either replace the whole speedo module, only 3/4 screws i think, or de-solder just the pot from the speedo and re-solder the replacement into yours. The only problem you may face with doing this, is that the pot ,may not be set the same if its been adjusted from another car, so i would go with option 1.

HTH

cheers

Graham

Hey all,

I was fitting my indiglow dials last night and after i'd done 'em went to drill the holes in the top of the casing to pass the wires through (as per instructions). One side fine then slipped when doing the speedo side and the drill bit went right through damaging one of the components :headvswal :xxx:. It broke of to of the progs that go into the PCB and the n the thrid one fiinally gave way as i tried to rectify my stupidity.

It's a small 3 pronged blue square box with what looks like a white adjuster in the middle. There's 2 of them on the PCB and it's the one on the left that's come off! :headvswal

Any ideas what it's for what it will affect and how i can get it fixed pronto??

 

Cherz James

Sounds like a variable resistor! have you tried to carefully resolder its contacts back on?? You could try RS components or maplins for a replacement if you take the old ones with you.

Similar to one of these in the pic but blue

Yes, it's a variable resistor or potentiometer, if you can still read the value of it then do as above RS or Maplin, not very expensive

Hey all,

I was fitting my indiglow dials last night and after i'd done 'em went to drill the holes in the top of the casing to pass the wires through (as per instructions). One side fine then slipped when doing the speedo side and the drill bit went right through damaging one of the components :headvswal :xxx:. It broke of to of the progs that go into the PCB and the n the thrid one fiinally gave way as i tried to rectify my stupidity.

It's a small 3 pronged blue square box with what looks like a white adjuster in the middle. There's 2 of them on the PCB and it's the one on the left that's come off! :headvswal

Any ideas what it's for what it will affect and how i can get it fixed pronto??

 

Cherz James

more importantly is the copper track on the pcb? also sometimes the solder just breaks and not the component pins or pcb tracks.

You can buy the parts no doubt, the only problem with a new one is the setting for calibration. Best mark the old one with tipex or something similar on the body next to the line/indent of the pot, use a small screwdriver and count the turns till it stops, left or right, doesnt matter as long as you remember which way you have turned it. And set the new one to the same amount of turns. Still no foolproof garauntee that it will be calibrated.

 

Cheers

Graham

measure the resistance of the old one after you take it off and set the new pot from maplins to the same resistance before soldering it in ...

You can buy the parts no doubt, the only problem with a new one is the setting for calibration. Best mark the old one with tipex or something similar on the body next to the line/indent of the pot, use a small screwdriver and count the turns till it stops, left or right, doesnt matter as long as you remember which way you have turned it. And set the new one to the same amount of turns. Still no foolproof garauntee that it will be calibrated.

 

Cheers

Graham

Also be aware its not how many turns on a pcb mount vr but how much of a turn from each stop. Also when you hit the stop at either turn (left or Right) do not force it past the stop as they break easily.

measure the resistance of the old one after you take it off and set the new pot from maplins to the same resistance before soldering it in ...

Thats another good way :) you forgot to tell him which pins out of three to check though :D

Vr

Meht - thank you very much for the quick response and offer and no disrespect but but i've had another offer i can't refuse.

 

I'd like to thank you all for your replies, clarification, help and advice and most importantly i'd like to thank Paul 'Rainbow ZTT' for very kindly giving me a spare set of clocks that he has and getting them in the post to me tomorrow.:hyper::bow:

 

It's help and advice from you lot and people like Paul that make being part of this club worth while and what it's all about. :bow::D

 

James

Meht - thank you very much for the quick response and offer and no disrespect but but i've had another offer i can't refuse.

 

I'd like to thank you all for your replies, clarification, help and advice and most importantly i'd like to thank Paul 'Rainbow ZTT' for very kindly giving me a spare set of clocks that he has and getting them in the post to me tomorrow.:hyper::bow:

 

It's help and advice from you lot and people like Paul that make being part of this club worth while and what it's all about. :bow::D

 

James

 

I agree with you, they're a great bunch on here.

 

If you are planning to replace the complete clock set, make sure they are from the same series as your Zed because different series have different designs, both physically and electrically.