Right, the old stereo I had was a JVC double din 2stacker. Wiring isn't a mess, it's very tidy, but I can't make head nor tail of it. I am considering chopping all of it out as I'm running new cables anyway and want to save some space behind, so will put bullet connectors on the new wires and bullet connectors on the ISO loom that comes with my new Alpine head unit. Unfortunately, it looks like this...what's that grey thing? I can't find any reference to it in the manual.

 

 

So all I'll need is a live feed? Do I need an ignition feed too? What point do I spur this off at? Oh, I also need to earth the headunit out, which is straight forward.

 

The electric areal...now, I've had a look at the back of it (OEM Nissan aerial socket). Looks like it takes a pulse from the headunit to extend/retract as there is the main co-axial as well as another black wire. Am I thinking correctly?

List all your wires and I will tell you where they go

How does the antenna work then (actuate)? Sorry, not all that clued up on the Zs wiring.

 

 

Works off the remote/cont wire (usually blue, poss with a white stripe on it). If you're not 100% sure Si then get someone help as you don't want to be blowing your brand new HU - which is soooooo easily done with all the different inputs/outputs these days

Works off the remote/cont wire (usually blue, poss with a white stripe on it). If you're not 100% sure Si then get someone help as you don't want to be blowing your brand new HU - which is soooooo easily done with all the different inputs/outputs these days

 

Think you're right. Kinda wanted to do it myself, but I'd rather it not be damaged. I'll prep the wires and just get someone to connect them. I'll just put bullet connectors on the ends of the new wires and the back of the ISO block.

List all your wires and I will tell you where they go

 

Pretty much ok with knowing where they go. Just a check over would be good if you could spare half an hour sometime.

From experience I would not use bullet connectors, they have a nasty habit of breaking connection at the most inopportune moments lol. Just use proper crimp connections :)

Si Make shure all live feeds on the loom side have female on so there can be no earthing of +12v

These then.

 

I've never had any problems with bullet connectors before. But I've only used them in this application once on my old car.

 

Si Make shure all live feeds on the loom side have female on so there can be no earthing of +12v

 

Ok cool. :)

Andy I think si means crimp bullets, Si you need to use electrical grade not cheep automotive ones from halfords

Andy I think si means crimp bullets, Si you need to use electrical grade not cheep automotive ones from halfords

 

If that is the case then furry muff :) Too many times I've been asked to fix intermittent stereo problems and found a birds nest of shitty bullet connectors behind the dash....

Andy I think si means crimp bullets, Si you need to use electrical grade not cheep automotive ones from halfords

 

I've used some crimp bullets on the speaker wiring. But only on the rears where I've modified the old Bose speaker mounts. That should be ok shouldn't it?

 

What's the difference between electrical grade and motor factor type plugs/sockets?

Si if you had the pair in your hand you would know, The electrical grade crimp has a standard as it has to carry a spesified load, so tolarances are better

Where would I get them?

Alpine indicate the following....

 

Red: Accessory...would I use that for ignition feed??

Blue: antenna

Pink/Black: Audio interrupt lead...what's this for? Does it mute if the system is connected to phone or satnav?

Blue/white: remote turn-on...what's this?

Yellow/blue: Parking brake...WTF??

 

Yellow/blue: Parking its so the dvd screen cant be watched when driving

Red: Accessory...would I use that for ignition feed?? = switch ignition feed

Blue: antenna = correct

Pink/Black: Audio interrupt lead...what's this for? Does it mute if the system is connected to phone or satnav? = mutes audio when secondary equipment is in use ie phone

Blue/white: remote turn-on...what's this? = remote switch for amps (low current)

Yellow/blue: Parking brake... = for dvd/vid interupt to insure car is stationary to view

 

you get better quality conectors from electrical wholesalers/ rs components

hope this helps also you want a proper crimp tool!!!

 

Allan

I've got a good Drapper crimp tool. I'll go on RS now and order some online. :)

 

These type??? http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6241263

 

If so, they are the same as the ones I currently have.

yup thay are fine, just remember to put female on any thing live that can earth and males on non live cables, if you know what i mean. Getting knackered now time for bed

I've got those already. Not crappy little ones, insulated ones. They seem well made and connect well. Thanks for your help. :)

Si

 

If you need a good online copy of the workshop manual you can get it from here.

 

http://www.4shared.com/account/dir/4107095/1f71aa4a/sharing.html?rnd=54

 

Good luck with the wiring, it can be a pain. Just remember if a fuse blows then there is probably a fault, don't just put in a bigger fuse.

 

Darrell

...am I right in thinking that the accessory wire should be wired to the smaller of the 2 black leads going to the antenna? At the moment they aren't and the antenna still goes up and down when the radio is/was switched on on the old system.

 

the thin black antena wire is a second antena (located in the rear windsceen) the stock radios used both antenas and picked the strongest signal. so just ignore it