Im not going to write the question again-that would just be silly!

 

Seriously though, what is it?

 

CHEERS

 

LUKE DUKESTER

 

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1 bar,but the thrust bearings will wear out much faster you need 360s to make them last a little longer.

 

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Whats that in psi? (approximately)

 

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14.5 psi .

 

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I've been running at 14 (almost 1bar) for 5/6 years, and 18.5 (1.3bar) for quite a while now. Yes, things will wear out more quickly, but I don't expect my turbos to fail noticably much quicker, I look after my servicing and especially oil changes. I also let the car warm up and cool down before/after +ive boost before turning on/off. This helps for sure.

hi,

after a brief chat with a man who works for garrett,he says new turbos are relativly safe to around 1.1bar auto,1.3bar man, but as the turbos get older the boost must come done in order to maintain reliabilty

---hth---

--neil--

Are they actually Garret turbo's?

Who actually produced them?

 

Is there a recommended replacement stage for putting in bigger turbo's?

Jez I thought that too! I ran for 6 months on 1.3bar after having new turbos and injectors and didn't hear any detting and this was confirmed by a Nissan garage and a number of people in the car listening for it. Then BANG goes the engine at a rolling road. Information I been given from JWT, Stillen, SE Nissan, Progress and 4 other tuners and engine builders is simple, if you are really stock internals then 14.5psi/1bar with a scramble of anything up 1.3bar for no more than 8/10 seconds depending on the extent of detting you get at that level of boost. I have spoken to no tuner in the UK or US that suggests that running above 1bar for normal running is a good idea. It cost me £4000 for replacing the engine as I ran mine too high for too long, something I won't ever do again.

 

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"Clean on drive"

"Dirty at 156mph!"

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Z first and anything else is secondary and live life a quarter mile at a time!

John Newcomb (NukeEm)

www.geocities.com/jn300zxtt

Yeah, understood, ta.

 

I don't really ever get the chance to run 1.3bar apart from the quick blib every now and then, probably never for more than 10 seconds. Also I have previously been put of rolling roads anyhow as they never really get the car enough cooling and bring on the detination and like you discovered can blow an engine if already on the limit.

 

I'm looking at bigger turbos sometime hopefully this year and will proabably change at least to a thick gasket to reduce the compression. I was going to get bigger stronger pistons, but not sure now.

 

I'm running on big intercoolers, dual-pop and de-catted which your spec doesn't appear to have. This together should help cooling

 

I see you have 555s and jwt ecu like me.

Jez - I've had decatt pipes fitted now and the bigger intercoolers arrive in the next week or so. I have the Stillen single pop and I am considering replacing it with a dual pop. Is your dual a Stillen or HKS or what?

 

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Z first and anything else is secondary and live life a quarter mile at a time!

John Newcomb (NukeEm)

www.geocities.com/jn300zxtt

The dual pop is great. Worth it IMO.

 

I got the JWT beacuse I wanted the included drivability upgrade. It's probably just one of those makes re-badged. I would NOT reccomend installing dual pop without the upgrade, it bascially keep the revs normal and stable at low revs / idol. It's a squeeze, but you can fit the dual pop from JWT on a UK Z with the bigger oil cooler, dunno if there is any issue with the other makes. Also, if you get the upgrade, make sure you get the METAL thread that goes into the original re-circulation valves and not the PLASTIC one... they're not so good. Also, if you want to stop the loud honk I have an idea you can try out during the install.

 

Also, FYI - If you can't work out how to fit the intercooler in such a small space you can like me, remove the carben canister (on the n/s behind the original intercooler). But you must plug a couple of bits, I dunno which ones as Darren helped out with this.

 

While the bumper is off you can pull out all the original plastic going to the original intake (left and right sides) from the wheel arch.

Thanks Jez. I will probably do the dual pop next year. Have you had your car tuned and if so by who?

Tuned nope. I haven't found a garage I trust yet. The only thing to really tune is to setup the chip for your car, what else can you do? Which I think is only necessary with some bigger turbos. Otherwise the best tuning is to keep everything serviced and to spec. Check error codes, timing, replace pvc valves when you can, egr system removal / servicing, check sensors, (especially temp and O2)... No.1 Oil!

As the chip is in a JWT ECU they cant do any tuning then? Have you had your timing retarded or advanced or is set as standard?

call me a bonehead but dont the autos and manuals have different sized turbos? therefore the max boost each produced would be different.....

 

Originally posted by jvnewcomb1961:

14.5psi/1bar with a scramble of anything up 1.3bar for no more than 8/10 seconds depending on the extent of detting you get at that level of boost

 

Are you seriously saying that tuners are suggesting that letting a car det for short periods of time is acceptable!

 

 

Originally posted by scoops:

call me a bonehead but dont the autos and manuals have different sized turbos? therefore the max boost each produced would be different.....

 

Steve you bone head!

 

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My timing is at 15deg... factory spec. If I go more high I will get detination, more low (say 13) it will feel like I lost a turbo (I know, tried it already)