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Just wondering if anyone knows what the problem with my zed is.

when im driving everything is fine and normal and when it comes to me slowing to a stop (traffic lights / roundabout etc) the revs seem to drop and the engine cuts out. the only way ive been getting round this problem is be breaking harder and then quickly blipping the throttle to keep my revs up. this isn't exactly ideal, has anyone got any suggestions as to what i should do next.???

Featured Replies

Try TPS, small black box on the front right side of the engine,unplug the connector and look for green corrosion, clean off with small blade/screwdriver.

That's what it was on mine.

 

Paul

If it's a vaccume leak then you need to make up a boost leak tester.. Quiet simply you need to take off your air filter, and come up with a bung that covers up the big intake hole with a valve poking out the middle... And either use a compressor or a foot pump inserted into the valve as if you we're trying to blow a tyre up, and listen for leaks coming from the engine.. If you hear a psssssss coming from somewhere then you need to replace that hose!

can also be the temp sender too! (one with the yellow cap) try cleaning the verdigris from the terminals, best thing is...it aint gonna cost you a bean to try this fix first ;)

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Parker300zx,

I also suffered from a similar problem for some time before eventually getting my tickover under control. I had various simtoms like, stalling, High idle, erratic idle to name but a few. I would sugest starting with connectors to the A.A.C. valve and the F.I.C.D. Selenoid valve. These can be found attacthed to the Air Regulator via pipework at the back of the engine viewed from the front. Disconnect both an clean thouroughly before refitting, now is a good time to check the base idle rpm and adjust if needed, Should be 650rpm +/-50 There is a adjusting screw on the right hand side of the of the AAC Valve and should be set when the engine is at normal temperature. I would also check and clean the connector to the Air Regulator prior to setting idle. If this does not fix the problem i have more suggestion but try these first.

Good Luck Redwine300.

Hello again Parker300zx,

Must mention the fact that you need to set base idle before connecting AAC valve etc'

I swapped my IAAC valve when I had similar probs, as mentioned mine turned out to be the temp sender.....consequently, I have a IAAV you can have for nowt if you want it!

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

god knows. dont know that to try first. finding time isnt easy, thanks for the help anyway guys. mush apprichiated

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