hi all.

i've been head scratching for ages now over what to do with my auto. we swapped a TT engine, 'box, etc into an N/A car and cant get it to run. at first when we tried it we got it to fire on easy start but now it just wont have it. somethings not right with the electrics. we had to wire the starter direct from the ignition for it to work.

no idea what it could be anymore (swapped CAS, played with all the earths and plugs, etc) so is there anyone in this neck of the woods that could have a look? if not it'll be for sale to the first reasonable offer. its been sitting a few months since the conversion so now i just want it to work so i can sell it or i'll sell it off cheap.

anyone wants to earn a few beer tokens and have a look at it please let me know.

im on siraff@msn.com or 07930 168 603.

thanks in advance.

simon.

pretty sure you will find the ecu on the na is totally different to the TTs unit.

some one more knowledgeable should be along soon...........

swapped the ECU with the motor mate. about the only bit we didnt swap was the in car loom.

Any fault codes

Have you made sure the connector on the ecu is seated correctly?

And petrol? I know it sounds stupid but the first thing they taught us was to check for juice as you said it fired on easy start, so ignition side seems ok as your getting a spark. Check you have the fuel lines in the engine bay the correct way round. Can you hear the fuel pump when ignition is switched on?

EASY START! :shock: (BTW that don't need a spark!)

Any fault codes

only no AFM which is right as we left it off for the first start.

Have you made sure the connector on the ecu is seated correctly?

yes mate. we've even tried holding the sides in to make sure its seated all the way. we've tried different ECU's too (the original turbo one, the N/A one and a JD mapped manual TT one).

we put £10 petrol in after it went on easy start as we thought it may be low. that made no difference. we couldnt hear the pump, so wired it direct too. pump was going but still no inj pulse. checked signal to coil packs and injectors and not getting any. that would say ECU to me but i've got 4 and i know 3 of them work (not seen the N/A one working so couldnt say).

EASY START! (BTW that don't need a spark!)

that would explain the running without spark then. shame as it sounded nice when it did go.

Is battery fully charged ?

ECU needs at least 10V to operate correctly

 

are you sure you have a good PTU and connectors are also clean ?

 

quick way to check if the injectors are firing/working:

remove cas but leave connected to harness, put on ignition and manually turn the cas.

You should hear the injectors clicking

 

-Eric

Not sure if this is any help

 

http://www.z1motorsports.com/PDFs/NATTconversion.pdf

ok. tried the batterys off the bmw and the minibus. same result. the battery on the Z was charged before starting anyway but i thought i'd try.

trie turning CAS but no clicking and still no fuel in cylinders (dry plugs).

Anthonyd: cheers for the link but how do you open a pdf? im not comp minded. lol

ok. tried the batterys off the bmw and the minibus. same result. the battery on the Z was charged before starting anyway but i thought i'd try.

trie turning CAS but no clicking and still no fuel in cylinders (dry plugs).

Anthonyd: cheers for the link but how do you open a pdf? im not comp minded. lol

 

Do a google search for downloading Adobe acrobat reader, its free and will open pdf's

Any ECU errorcodes ?

ok. tried the batterys off the bmw and the minibus. same result. the battery on the Z was charged before starting anyway but i thought i'd try.

trie turning CAS but no clicking and still no fuel in cylinders (dry plugs).

Anthonyd: cheers for the link but how do you open a pdf? im not comp minded. lol

 

If injectors did not click when you span the CAS then its looks like faulty CAS..althought I see you changed the CAS.....have you checked the conector for corrosion.

 

Its possibly that you your fault lies with the loom, not uncommon for them to have breaks in the wires when disturned with an engine removal.

 

Definatly perform an ECU test to check for error codes

You need to be able to here the injectors clicking whilst turning the cas so thats where you need to start, if you have no injectors you will probably have no spark.

 

Does the fuel pump prime when you first put ignition on ?

try this fault code test

http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html

Does the fuel pump prime when you first put ignition on ?

nope. thats why we had to wire it direct. we thought there was a break in the feed to it (didnt change the cars loom) when we didnt hear it.

tried 2 CAS on it. neither give injector pulse when turned. :(

had another loo at the connector and it looked fine. cleaned it with carb cleaner, WD40, a wire brush and some rag. still the same.

i've thought of breaking it for bits more than once. i know i wont want to when its up and running (but i'll still have to sell one of them) but its getting to me now. i've not had a problem take this long to sort on any car/bike i've ever owned.

Id does not sound like its the cas itself thats the problem more like a problem with the loom or the main relays

Check the ecu is supplying an earth signal to the EFI relay behind the passenger headlight. No fuel pump prime and no fuel/spark would suggest this relay isn't firing up...

Make sure the Big plug that sits above the ECU is plugged in.....supplies power to the Main EFI loom.

ok. i havent had time to get another look at it yet (been run off my feet).

i'll try to have a look tomorrow or tuesday (depends on workload).

anyone want a diff/rear subframe? not sure if its N/A or TT diff (it was a TT engine in an N/A car. its a non hicas back end if anyone needs anything? its all in bits if anyone knows the numbers on the different ones. i'll be weighing it in on monday if no one wants it. also have the front subframe/brakes/etc but not sure the subframe's straight.

this is all from the car the engine came from. also have doors. tailgate and bonnet in red.

all i need back is the window motor from the drivers door. its all free but a donation to make up for the weight would be appreciated.