I'm looking for a few pics of SE Nisstek's HICAS eliminator bar installed so I can see exactly how it bolts together.

It's a bit more complicated than most HICAS bars.

I'm looking for a few pics if SE Nisstek's HICAS eliminator bars installed so I can see exactly how it bolts together.

It's a bit more complicated than most HICAS bars.

 

Ian "Mac1" has one. They are a copy of the Border bar so might get info of their site.

 

Did you get those nuts I sent on Monday??

 

Anyway here's what I remember. Before you remove the HICAS unit. Mesure the exact length of the steering rods to the hub carriers.

 

Then remove the HICAS then bolt the Eliminator in its place.

 

The rose ends of the tie bars goes into the eyes each end of the eliminator with the bolt through to hold in place. Now lock up the rose end with the locking nut.

 

Then you have to attach the rod end from the hub to the other end of the tie bar and set to correct length. Once you've done this lock this end up with the other locking nut and reattach to the hub carrier. Job done.

 

It's fiddley but gives you the added option of ajusting rear toe. I thought of having an opposed threaded ends and even discovered that they do make a reverse threaded Rose Rod end. That way you could ajust it without having to remove the Hub end every time.

Ian "Mac1" has one.

He does but the car wont be home until the end of the month so I cant take any pics until then :(

Ian "Mac1" has one. They are a copy of the Border bar so might get info of their site.

 

Did you get those nuts I sent on Monday??

 

Anyway here's what I remember. Before you remove the HICAS unit. Mesure the exact length of the steering rods to the hub carriers.

 

Then remove the HICAS then bolt the Eliminator in its place.

 

The rose ends of the tie bars goes into the eyes each end of the eliminator with the bolt through to hold in place. Now lock up the rose end with the locking nut.

 

Then you have to attach the rod end from the hub to the other end of the tie bar and set to correct length. Once you've done this lock this end up with the other locking nut and reattach to the hub carrier. Job done.

 

It's fiddley but gives you the added option of ajusting rear toe. I thought of having an opposed threaded ends and even discovered that they do make a reverse threaded Rose Rod end. That way you could ajust it without having to remove the Hub end every time.

 

Yes I got the nuts yesterday mate and they fit! Thanks a lot :)

 

That description is a big help. I'm sure it's a lot simpler once you're under the car but just wanted to know which way round all the bits attach before I dive in and unbolt stuff.

 

Thanks anyway Iain :)

 

I saw a pic of one a while ago on here but can't find it right now.