Hi all

 

Trying to sort out boost issues, not long had my car back its been off the rd some time......

 

1st ecu test got code 13 cleaned the terminals & then got code 55

 

But the boost is still 7psi ( have aftermarket gauge ) checked for leaks & noticed a couple of the pipes had splits in them, Znut is sorting me out with a good set until i upgrade. But i tried to temp repair them with gaffer tape, but still 7psi

 

So my question is is the gaffer tape ok for a very temp repair, or should i wait until i put on the new pipes to get a satisfactory test.

 

Or can i still be in safety boost even though code 55 :cry:

Disconect battery for an hour to reset ECU.Then do code check again and should be fine.

Disconect battery for an hour to reset ECU.Then do code check again and should be fine.

 

 

Thanks Vince will do ...... & i will let you know result in an hour or so .... ;)

Yes, you can remain in 'standard' boost with no ECU error codes. If for example the temp sensor never read more than 60C or your BSCVs were disconnected then extended boost would not be enabled.

I have reconnected the battery , still get code 55, but still only 7 psi, :headvswal

 

i also just noticed the fan is permantly on, BSCVs are connected on both sides of the engine bay, any advice greatly appreciated

Fan on usually means confused water temp sensor (or dead ECU!).

 

I have a seen a couple that are 'stuck' at a certain temp. It would be useful if you could get a ConZult to diagnose this.

I have this exact problem.

 

After further investigation I have found the ECU is never earthing the wastegate solenoids to complete the circuit and make them open. (I have tapped into this wire so I can see when it is being earthed)

 

What is even more confusing is that when I plug in Datascan it says it IS opening them, when I can see it actually isnt. All sensors are wrking fine and it is only saying it is opening them when the coolant is warm and at the right revs etc.

 

Suggestion is blown track on the ecu.

more likely to be a dead temp sensor.

 

because the resistance is at a value thats within the acceptable limits of the ECU, it wont issue a fault code.

 

check the connector isnt corroded before you go jumping into swapping ecus etc...

Ive got a temp sensor if you wanna try it. Was good when i took it out of the car, however new ones are not expensive.

 

Pete

ime 99% certain that a temp sensor from a micra and a few more nissans have the same resistence value iff you cant get one handy ;)

Thanks guys will try the temp sender 1st ,

Tried a different temp sensor got code 13 again !!

Cleaned all the shit off terminals got code 55

still only boosting 7psi maybe 7.5psi

took battery off & neg off pressed brake pedal also left an hour still boosting 7.5psi

 

Question is WTF is wrong LOL ... :p Is it boost leak ?? or ECU or maybe other ??

 

 

Has anyone nearby got a consult nearby?? come on you Welsh lot... ;)

Sorry Martin, r.e. our talk, heres the links:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Nissan-Consult-Interface_W0QQitemZ200112297501QQihZ010QQcategoryZ4661QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-Consult-SCANNER-Interface-RS232-OBD2-89-2000-ALL_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43989QQihZ020QQitemZ300110511933QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

Tried a different temp sensor got code 13 again !!

Cleaned all the shit off terminals got code 55

still only boosting 7psi maybe 7.5psi

took battery off & neg off pressed brake pedal also left an hour still boosting 7.5psi

 

Question is WTF is wrong LOL ... :p Is it boost leak ?? or ECU or maybe other ??

 

 

Has anyone nearby got a consult nearby?? come on you Welsh lot... ;)

Has your fan stopped running continuously now Martin?

 

Steve :)

Has your fan stopped running continuously now Martin?

 

Steve

 

 

My viscous fan still runs continually ......

My viscous fan still runs continually ......

Mmm - could still be ECU itself or a bad signal to the ECU temp sensor. As said above, Conzult would be the next sensible step IMO..

 

Steve :)

Mmm - could still be ECU itself or a bad signal to the ECU temp sensor. As said above, Conzult would be the next sensible step IMO..

 

Steve :)

 

 

Also she idles at 1000rpm & today i noticed while changing gear she went to 2000rpm............... :confused:

 

That makes me think its a boost leak .... but i cant find it :headvswal

 

looking 2c if i can borrow/use consult datascan from someone....

 

thanks 4 ur imput

I have had some well wierd things go wrong with my car in the past including loosing the earth from the ECU. The cars are getting on now and many of the soldered sockets in the ECU are going dry and need resoldering.

 

well worth a few hours with the old soldering iron.

I have had some well wierd things go wrong with my car in the past including loosing the earth from the ECU. The cars are getting on now and many of the soldered sockets in the ECU are going dry and need resoldering.

 

well worth a few hours with the old soldering iron.

 

 

Would be to confident it doing that without a spare 4 back up ....lol

 

But makes great sense...

Update:

 

Eractic idle resolved as temp switch replaced.

 

But 7.5psi max code 55 all clear & fan on always idles at 1000rpm