I've had problems with severe front inside edge tyre wear ever since lowering and fitting 18's.

Last summer I fitted adjustable camber arms and had it adjusted and laser aligned to the Nissan factory specs.

Within a couple of thousand miles I'm gutted to find another set of tyres down to the metal on the inside edge.

Presuming it was setup correctly is there anything else could be causing this?

It's costing me £250 a time experimenting at the mo! :rant:

Tie rods, worn lower balljoint/inner bushes, worn track rods, worn rack....

 

Not much then :D

Did you just to camber arms or adjustable tension rods for caster as well ?

smithy

I've just got camber arms but the tension rod bushes were replaced with poly ones a couple of years ago.

 

I was told one of the track rod ends was worn and I have those ready to go on but would one being worn cause both tyres to wear so bad in such a short time?

 

The wear is so far out on the edge of the tyre that it's hardly visible on the tread itself but on full lock I can now see it's through the metal again.

Total waste as the tyre is like new :(

When i first got my car the fronts were down to the metal on the insides.

 

changed the track rod ends and tyres, new tyres now done 5000 miles and the wear is even

i though you had to have adjustable tension rods when using adjustable camber arms?

i though you had to have adjustable tension rods when using adjustable camber arms?

 

Only if your name is not Chris C. :headvswal :rofl: :rofl:

 

Hey Chris just think how much faster your car will go when the wheels are pointing in the right direction :bow:

 

What a fooking star. Mr wing and a prayer. I thought you had it to the MOT station last week? Didn't they spot em or were they too busy burning the rubber of the back tyres.

 

I'd have those bazterds up mate. Defo report em to the MOT or VOSA what ever they are call these day.

 

I still ask for a Marathon Bar.

i though you had to have adjustable tension rods when using adjustable camber arms?

 

Never heard that but maybe you're right? :confused:

Anyone else know?

Only if your name is not Chris C. :headvswal :rofl: :rofl:

 

Hey Chris just think how much faster your car will go when the wheels are pointing in the right direction :bow:

 

What a fooking star. Mr wing and a prayer. I thought you had it to the MOT station last week? Didn't they spot em or were they too busy burning the rubber of the back tyres.

 

I'd have those bazterds up mate. Defo report em to the MOT or VOSA what ever they are call these day.

 

I still ask for a Marathon Bar.

 

It will go slower when all the tyre is on the road!!! :rofl:

 

That's the thing, I've been checking them regularly but the tread is fine for 99% of the tyre then it just seems to go through in no time.

Last time I checked last month there was nothing to be seen and now its down to metal :confused:

Assuming all your bearings and bushes are in good condition and nothing is bent buckled and knackered.

 

Because of the geometry of the steering and suspension when you change one setting it will change the others that then need resetting. So if you fitted the adjustable top link and did not fit the adjustable front tension rods after resetting the camber to correct for lowering the caster must be incorrect. At the same time if the toe in was not reset that will also be out. To get every setting correct it may need each individual link changing several times.

 

There is an easy way to check that all is correct without wearing your tyres out first. This is how you setup any racecar and it holds true for road driving. Take the temperature of the tyres after driving at the speed and in the conditions you want to set for. Do this in three places across the tread width inside, centre and outsides. The hottest part is doing the most work and will wear out first. When all the setup is correct including tyre pressure and corner weight the temperature will be equal all the way across all the tyres. If you are wearing one edge out you should be able to feel the temperature difference by placing your hand on the tyre.

IMO fit some adjustable arms at the bottom, i have an early set of upper adjustable arms and one started to snap ! (but now sorted) and i was told you must change lower arms with upper. Which of course is what i done.

>> I've had problems with severe front inside edge tyre wear ever since lowering and fitting 18's.

 

Have you checked the tire isn't rubbing against the top suspension link parts ?

>> I've had problems with severe front inside edge tyre wear ever since lowering and fitting 18's.

 

Have you checked the tire isn't rubbing against the top suspension link parts ?

 

Good idea :)

The wear is so far to the side of the tyre it's possible :eek:

Never heard that but maybe you're right? :confused:

Anyone else know?

Idealy yes, if doing the tops you do the bottoms as well, walksonland has got it pretty spot on, plus it can cause undue strain.

cheers

smithy

So is it just adjustable tension rods you'd recommend?

Can do without this right now I'm soooo broke :(

Jack it up and look at the underside of the suspension bits nearest the inner edge of the tyre. Mine's only on 17's and original suspension (saggy) and I can clearly see a charming mark where the tyres are fouling. i.e. there is a mark where the suspension component is not as muddy as the rest, about an inch square. Presumably it happens when going round a bumpy corner cos I can fit my fingers between it and the tyre otherwise. I've also heard worn suspension will allow this to happen due to the sagging, but if yours is on 18s and lowered or whatnot I suppose the problem is aggrevated further.

 

I think somewhere on this forum it is said that to lower a 300, adjustable tension rods and upper arms + camber kit should be considered, or something like that.

 

Mr Pink

Well most of the front suspension has been replaced.

I've got adjustable upper camber arms with their new bushes, poly tension rod bushes, Blitz lowering springs, Koni adjustable shocks.

 

Has anyone else had a problem with lowered cars rubbing the suspension?

Can't say I've heard of it.

I've had 255's and 245 tyres on but might try a 235 to minimise it?

Just a thought but check the lower arms aren't cracked where the tension rod bolts on....