anyone any ideas or do most people just get theirs regrouded/balanced??

 

i want 400 to 500 rwhp with hks2530's, with ported/polished head plus the rest of the mods.

 

what internals should i be going for? dont want a stoker kit. so should i just go for forged pistons and conrods studs etc or include something with the crankshaft too, because i cant seem to find anything on the site. does anyone know anywhere if not or where you can buy an aftermarket one from if you can get them? or do i need to do anything with it in the first place as i hear its steel forged

You don't need to do anything with the crank, it's very well designed :)

unless you want to stroke your engine which is not needed unless your looking at mega mega power then the stock one is more than up to the job :)

The 1100ps 300 ZX which did over 260mph (I think it was) used the original crank accoroding to teh Jun website.

 

It would have done work to it but it was the standard one.

anyone any ideas or do most people just get theirs regrouded/balanced??

 

i want 400 to 500 rwhp with hks2530's, with ported/polished head plus the rest of the mods.

 

what internals should i be going for? dont want a stoker kit. so should i just go for forged pistons and conrods studs etc or include something with the crankshaft too, because i cant seem to find anything on the site. does anyone know anywhere if not or where you can buy an aftermarket one from if you can get them? or do i need to do anything with it in the first place as i hear its steel forged

 

For the kind of power your looking for you don't need to go to the expense of porting or plishing your heads. New valve stems and lifters are recomended. but thats it. If i were you though I would go for uprated valve springs and cam (not too agresive). That way you can up your RPM to increase the power band. Porting and polishing heads really is looking to squeeze that last remaining 10 to 20 HP at high revs when you got as much as you can from everything else, This will eventually or quickly lead to head failure depending on how good the job was done. Good induction and Mapping would be far more noticeable and much much much cheeper to obtain and less likely to end in unreliability.

 

Coupled to the right turbo's and a good exhaust system. Far too many people on here talking about porting and al sorts of extreme tuning before the even go through the basics. 400 RWHP is more power than you can realistically use unless you drag or sprint. Road use 360 is more than most people can seriously handle.

 

Unless your looking to be a serious contender for the TOTB then its just bragging rights. Surely a sensible reliable high performance motor is what you really want. If so thats achievable by getting a Turbo setup that can easily push the air you need to push, an induction system that can deliver the air, a fuel system that can provide enough fuel, a chipped ECU & booster or ECU replacement that can manage it without cooking your engine, Pistons rod and bearings that can handle the increase presure and an exhaust system that can get rid of it quick enough to let it breath in the first place.

 

The standard crank was used in the Steve Hillen (Stillen) GT class Le Mans winner running 900 ish BHP.

thanks guys you've all bin a great help - starting with cooling first and probably the zemulator so i can easily add mods on and be ok with car running smoothly

 

cheers.

my roling road gave 360bhp and 368lbft of torque on 12 psi with standard internals, it is a good wodge of power, i upped my boost to 15psi which put me almost on 400bhp and the difference was frightening in straight line accell, go drive a 400bhp Z before you decide you want 500bhp as i think 400bhp is as far as i would want to go with a 16 year old road car that isnt gonna be a track monster

its 380 now mate

its 380 now mate

 

What Rear Wheel Horse Power or are you talking fly wheel. + where do you get your figures from. What are you running to get that power.

What Rear Wheel Horse Power or are you talking fly wheel. + where do you get your figures from. What are you running to get that power.

 

 

flywheel i believe, this is what i was told when i bought the car anyway - basically i've got boost at 1bar, hks powerflow air filter (i think), lightened pulleys, straight through system with new manifold and decat, superchipped to what i dont know. so it could be running less than this anyway. so more than likely your gona tell me its probably running less than this? lol. im trying to turn this into a quick street car and for the occasional track days including a few runs down santa pod - so best tub to go for (i hear) for 400 to 500 would be hks 2530's with relevant mods. With what it's got now its not enough quick enough for myself from 3rd to 4th - 1st just spins and second seems ok. 5th i'm bothered about as i'm a 0-100 man really.

Do yourself a favour and get rid of the superchip, they're crap and if you are only worried about 0-100 get the richer gears higher ratio diff ;)

will be getting rid of superchip when i get my zemulator

flywheel i believe, this is what i was told when i bought the car anyway - basically i've got boost at 1bar, hks powerflow air filter (i think), lightened pulleys, straight through system with new manifold and decat, superchipped to what i dont know. so it could be running less than this anyway. so more than likely your gona tell me its probably running less than this? lol. im trying to turn this into a quick street car and for the occasional track days including a few runs down santa pod - so best tub to go for (i hear) for 400 to 500 would be hks 2530's with relevant mods. With what it's got now its not enough quick enough for myself from 3rd to 4th - 1st just spins and second seems ok. 5th i'm bothered about as i'm a 0-100 man really.

 

The HKS2530's are Garrett GT2871RS's turbos with a pysically smaller waist gate. HKS, Blitz etc only buy in good quality stuff made by people like Garrett, Greddy, Exeedy, Mitsubishi etc. So going dirrect or to a registered Autherised dealer of the manufacturer can save you ££££'s. The UK Garrett distributor is Turbo Dynamics in Pool, Dorcet. If you tell them that your after the GT28 Roller bearing turbos for a 300zx they'll supply them with the smaller waste gate so they can fit into the engine bay. You'l need 5stud down pipes though. Also speek to John Dixon or Andy P about getting a better chip. Infact do this first and have the thing set up properly.

 

John Dixons car with Chip, induction and boost controler pushed 370 RWHP Dynoed after being set up using a wide band lamber.

hear hear, John dixon did the chip in my car and with accompanying mods and std injectors mine has stage 2 Turbo Dynamics hybrids, race spec bottom end, and fast road box and when the boost come on full it looses the grip on the rear.. very very quick and mine should be around 360rwhp.

 

400-500 rwhp is in no way practical for road use trust me..any of you here remember my mate tattooman? he sold his zed and ended up with a 560rwhp r33 gtr skyline tuned by Rod Bell!! i drove it and it was really hard work and i love powerful cars but i could not drive something like that every single day

400-500 rwhp is in no way practical for road use trust me..any of you here remember my mate tattooman? he sold his zed and ended up with a 560rwhp r33 gtr skyline tuned by Rod Bell!! i drove it and it was really hard work and i love powerful cars but i could not drive something like that every single day

 

i dissagree, with the right suspension, tyres and more important clutch a powerful car cna be an everyday car, my zed wasnt running to its full power but still 480 rwhp and was as easy round town as a oem zed!! my 600 bhp skyline was the same, no problems as all but as i said you need the right clutch and setup to make it easy

 

Mike

thats IMO of course mike ;)