Looks like it my oil pump making the noise!!!!!1

 

Massive job to get it out!!!

 

What of fooking £5500 so far buying this car. Spose to have been a good one!! Atleast I could drive my other car even though it smoked!!!!

 

Out of money, so gonna have to do it myself. DOH :headvswal :headvswal :headvswal

 

Thought this would have been checked when the engine was out only 15000miles ago. But looking at things on the engine as I've been taking things apart, I dont think the matey was very good!!!!

problem is, you buy a car based on what is doing then, and a seller can only sell on what it was doing then, even if something goes wrong 24 hours later its not down to the previous owner, unless they have deliberately hidden a fault.

i dont think dave is the type of person to lie about anything really if he knew there was a problem he would have told you.

apparantly, it's not a massive job.

Smithy, its not a cambelt off job, but you do have to be bloody careful not to spill water on it!!!

 

I have shedloads of pics and stuff from doing mine, so if you get stuck, give me a yell, the tools you will need is a fookin big socket (no doubt someone will confirm size, before i go in the garage to check 32mm???) to get the pulley wheel off and most probably a short legged pulley puller to get the wheel free.You'll also need a tube of that waterproof instant gasket stuff.

 

It would be wise to get the two short hoses and the stat first and do them while youre in there, plus you will probably need to cut those 2 hoses to get them off to access the pump.

 

Here my rushed "how to"

 

1 Remove coolant.

2 Remove fan shroud, viscous fan and rad, (if you dont take the rad off you are likely to stic a spanner through it at some point!!!) also dont store the viscous fan bits lying down, lean them on somethong so it stays at 90 deg from the ground as it is on the car, apparently they are full of oil and can leak if lied down.You will also need to remove other bits and bobs to access all the screws, like boost pies etc, my tip is put latex gloves over the end of the pipes to stop you dropping ant screws down them!!

3 slacken alt pas and ac belts off and remove, labeling them is wise

4. remove the 2 steel pipes that go in by the pump, you will shift most of them with allen keys and sockets, but on some you will need a small spanner, one of those bend allen key things and a pair of very small hands.

5 remove cambelt covers.

6. Now youve got to remove the pulley wheel, this is a sh1t of a job, and if you have an auto, its a really really bad sh1t! This is where you'll need the big 32mm?? socket, you will also need the worlds strongest ratchet and a long bar, if you have a manual, putting it in gear with the handbrake tight on may be enough to stop the engine turning when you remove the nut, if not or if you have an auto you will need to remove the starter motor and chock the starting ring with a strong chocking device!!

 

DONT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES WEDGE THE BAR ON THE FLOOR AND TRY TURNING THE ENGINE TO FREE THE PULLEY WHEEL NUT, A FRIEND OF MINE ADVISED ME TO DO THIS AND IF I HAD IF WOULD OF FOOKED MY GEARBOX!!!

 

6 finally remove the offending water pump!!!

 

To quote haynes manuals "Refitting is reverse of removal!!!!"

 

Ive probably missed the odd bit out but thats about all i can remember off the top of my head, looking back at that its hard to believe i managed it, but if i can do it anyone can!!

 

Many thanks to Mr Duff, Mac1 and TonyC who were all on the end of the phone when i was in need of a bit of know how.

 

 

 

Good luck!!!

He said.

Thought it was the belts and he gave me new ones.

Just been working my way down the things it could be and ended up at the oil pump!! He prob didnt know, nor did I at the time.

 

Just after my first one, I was hoping I got a good one with mininal work to do. Doh

Dirty, I wish it was the water pump, but its the 'oil pump'

The Trouble is that 15kmiles in a zed could be anything from 3 years upwards, and its not something you can really check.

 

At least its just a £100 part that does'nt require engine out.

ah, my bad, misread your post sorry!

Lol, no probs.

Like I said, would have been nice if it was!!!

Lol, no probs.

Like I said, would have been nice if it was!!!

out of intrest bud who told you it was the oil pump,mines doin the same kinda

Where exactly is the oil pump?

Where exactly is the oil pump?

at the other end of the oil lines :x: sorry pete it just came out :)

at the other end of the oil lines :x: sorry pete it just came out :)

:headvswal :slap:

 

:rofl:

out of intrest bud who told you it was the oil pump,mines doin the same kinda

 

Me and bro.

put screwdriver on it and put in ear = very very loud noise

 

Had a hunch from the very beginning cause it did it a few seconds after start up, just as the pump is getting up to full pressure. Just wanted it to be something else easier to change!

Me and bro.

put screwdriver on it and put in ear = very very loud noise

 

Had a hunch from the very beginning cause it did it a few seconds after start up, just as the pump is getting up to full pressure. Just wanted it to be something else easier to change!

make sure your not getting put on a bum steer by confusing it with the bottom right cam belt idle pully,could be passin noise throu the oil pump casing bud

I've just replaced all of those with new idlers!!!

Where exactly is the oil pump?

 

The big fookin thing behind the crank timing belt sprocket. Looks easy to remove to me, but I don't know whats in the back.

Unfortunately its not quite that easy after reading up on here what you have to do :( Support the engine, drop the cross member off, remove sump all to get at two bolts that are holding the pipe that feeds into the bottom of the sump which is connected to the pump!

I feel for you Rodders.

 

I was once told by Ztech that the oil pump on the Zed is almost indestructible and for that reason they are not often checked by garages.

 

I hope you get it sorted and can fully enjoy the zed without any niggles...

I feel for you Rodders.

 

I was once told by Ztech that the oil pump on the Zed is almost indestructible and for that reason they are not often checked by garages.

 

I hope you get it sorted and can fully enjoy the zed without any niggles...

 

may of been told that in another way,but principle is if your having an engine rebuild it would be silly to not replace the oil pump,if it goes it means your engine goes so if your having a rebuild then best to change,but they dont often fail but same with anything mechanical it has a chance of failing

may of been told that in another way,but principle is if your having an engine rebuild it would be silly to not replace the oil pump,if it goes it means your engine goes so if your having a rebuild then best to change,but they dont often fail but same with anything mechanical it has a chance of failing

Yeh sorry Greg,

I don't mean anything by it.

 

What I meant was they rarely breakdown.

You are obviously correct that if you are rebuilding an engine and you have it in bits you may as well whack a new oil pump in there!

the engine in the car has been rebuilt. But they didnt change the cam belt idlers whilst it was out (they were well fooked) so I guess they didnt bother doing the pump either.

Really sorry for all the trouble you've had Mark. I honestly considered the car near on perfect when I sold it to you. I don't want to look like a dodgy car seller. I didn't advertise the car anywhere else because its a good one and I wanted it to stay in the club. I wonder if its worth speaking to peterR (was SE nissan who built the engine) about if the oil pump was replaced when the engine was rebuilt? I think Mac is in contact with him. I'd be cautious about ripping the engine to bits if you arn't 100% sure its the oil pump. After all its been making the noise for well over a year without any problems. If its any help, I've got an oil pressure gauge that you can have. I bought it to fit it in the zed anyhow. I've got a sender unit as well that I got off of someone on here but I'm not sure if its compatible with the gauge so I didn't fit it. Maybe then you'd be able to get a better idea of the oil pressure and be able to make a more informed decision?

The stock gauge hardly moves at all from cold, so that was worrying. (i know they are unreliable though) I know its been like it all the time you had it, but dont want it failing. Id rather put in a new oil pump for a little bit of money than have to rebuild a whole (sorted) engine!

Im 99% sure its that.