My Jap '90 TT Auto sometimes flashes the Power light when I turn the ignition.

Is this a diagnostic code?

It lights steady for approximately 2 seconds then flashes 16 times.

Help much appreciated...

 

I take it you have an auto?

Thats the diagnostic check for the auto box - dunno why its doing it on its own unless it thinks its lost power to the system briefly and is doing it. Have you disconnected the battery recently? As long as the flashes are short and not long then all is well!

 

Memmber Simon Pass had a problem like this a while back,

 

You will have to trawl thru the Archives, (little flip down box at the bottom of the page) to see if you can find the thread. I have a nasty feeling it was the PTU that was going screwy but he had stalling problems as well, im sure replacing it will fix both.

 

Not sure of simons new Email but im sure you will find it if you look as he post fairly regularly.

 

Bilky is correct in that it is the Auto Box Diagnostics. But these things can tell you one thing and do another.

 

Z ya

 

Nico91TT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nico, mail is the same; smpass@freenet.co.uk.

 

Yup this sounds like the problem I had. I can't remember the number of flashes but it started off intermittent and then started to happen everytime I turned the ignition on. I also started to loose the power steering as it stuck on high speed mode so when I hit the corner and discovered i lost power sterring it was very interesting. I also lost the steering after it was warm. No pattern though.

 

The problem turned out to be a knackered speed sensor located on the drivers side of the gearbox. I think it was £100 or so and it cured the problem. The lack of speed sensor also cocked up the engine management as well so it ran rough for a while.

 

So, if you have a flashing light and power steering loss then this could be the problem.

 

I never did find the codes for the power flashinf so it could be telling you something alse about the box. What other symtoms have you detected Chris?

 

Simon P 90300ZXTT AUTO JAP IMPORT

 

 

 

Chris,

 

Follow this diagnostics procedure:

 

90+ 300ZX Automatic Transmission Self -Diagnostic Procedure.

1. Have the engine at normal operating temperature, in PARK with the overdrive switch on.

2. Start engine. The AT light should go out after 2 sec.

3. Turn the ignition off.

4. Move selector to drive “D” by using the Push Release button.

5. Set overdrive switch to OFF.

6. Wait 2 seconds and turn ignition switch ON.7. Wait 2 seconds and move selector to “2”.

8. Set overdrive switch to ON.

9. Move selector to “1”.

10. Set overdrive switch to OFF.

11. Depress accelerator pedal fully and release it.

12. The codes will begin to flash.There’s one long flash that signifies the start of the sequence.Following should be 10 short flashes. Then it repeats.

All 10 flashes the same = No error codes detected.

1st flash longer than others = Revolution sensor is shorted ordisconnected.

2nd flash longer than others = Speed sensor circuit is shorted ordisconnected.

3rd flash longer than others = Throttle sensor circuit is shorted ordisconnected.

4th flash longer than others = Shift solenoid “A” circuit is shortedor disconnected.

5th flash longer than others = Shift solenoid “B” circuit is shortedor disconnected.

6th flash longer than others = Overrun clutch solenoid circuit isshorted or disconnected.

7th flash longer than others = Lock-up solenoid circuit is shorted ordisconnected.

8th flash longer than others = Fluid temperature sensor isdisconnected or A/T control unit power sourcecircuit is damaged.

9th flash longer than others = Engine revolution signal circuit isshorted or disconnected.

10th flash longer than others = Line pressure solenoid circuit isshorted or disconnected.

All the same with no long start flash = Battery low, beendisconnected, or control unit has just beenreconnected.

 

Have you had a recent speedo conversion?

Is the power steering playing up?

 

Andy

 

Is EVERYTHING on these cars linked?!

I have all the problems you mention and the causes too! I had probs with HICAS light on and heavy/intermitantly working power steering and garage told me it was just fluid needed topping up...on 3 occasions. I said it must have a leak. They didn't bother to top it up but told me they had. They even disconnected the HICAS light to shut me up!

The car was under 3 month warranty...

I topped up the fluid myself and now it seems OK but no HICAS light until Thursday when they WILL reconnect it! The speedo stopped working 3 weeks ago and they said it was the speedo MPH/KPH/Delimiter chip they fitted. They removed it until they could get a new one so I had to drive in KPH. It only worked for a few miles and now the speedo only works for 5 mins from starting cold. Sometimes comes back on intermitantly. Car also dies/splutters until I take my foot off when revs reach around 5000RPM. Hopefully the new speedo will cure it but maybe it's not the speedo and actually a sensor as you mention...

Garage is fitting new speedo on Thursday but if I can suggest a few checks for them it may help. They obviously know nothing about these cars and are importing loads of 'em.

Any more ideas?

 

While I've got your attention can you Auto people give me some more info on the Box's functions?

What is that red lever thing in front of the selector? Seems to push down but I can't see what it's doing...

What EXACTLY do the modes do? Is the following correct?

Power increases change points to higher revs.

Normal seems to be a compromise setting.

Hold seems to change up ASAP.

If I set off in D with Hold on, am I pulling away in 2nd or 3rd gear? Seems dead slow.

If I select 2 am I locked in second or 1 & 2?

Is it possible to get decent power slides with the Auto or will it change gear half-way through and send me through a wall?!?

Last of all...

Can I get the weels spinning by reving in Neutral and slamming into Drive?!? Is an Auto box designed to cope with this or do I need a manual?!?!

I'm very gentle with my beast at the moment.

 

i cant help you on the techy bits but i have an auto box and u can dougnut and powerslide like a man possesed beleive me i do most weekends and the box is holding up well.do not under any circumstance rev the bollox in neutral and then slap in drive you'll be in tears when your gearbox spills its guts over the floor

 

Hi Chris,

Some of the lads may have correct me but like you said Power will hold the gear your in up to the change point. Hold seems to change up as soon as possible, good when you dont want to cane it in the wet or want to cruise at high speed without a downchange. The small lever behind the gear stick will release the stick from park with ignition off.

Regarding power slides 8) Well I've only managed short slides in the dry (in the wet you can slide round Asda car park too your hearts content!)

Reving then putting it in D will make the rear wheels spin, but you may just sit there melting your tyres! how good it is for your gearbox however....I needed a new box and torque converter after 4 months as on the 1990 (maybe 91) the autos didnt last that long. Oh about your back box, have a look on the rear silencers or on the chrome tips for a makers name or japanese logos (I have a Jasma setup) once you get a name or logo you can look it up on web sites like speedlab and stuff.

Laterz

Trev.

 

 

Chris,

 

Cant help you much with Auto box stuff, Altho i would maybe hazzard a guess that the problem you are having with the power light could be related to the failure of the MPH conversion which it interefinring with the speedo / speed sensor. This could also affect HICAS and Power steering so be careful.

 

HICAS warning light is usually low fluid altho you can do a diagnostic on the system to find out for yourself, it is quiet tricky to do tho but if your warning light comes back on i would try it.

 

Z ya

 

Nico91TT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chris, is does sound like you have a knackered speed sensor to me. If they have removed the conversion and the speedo works for a short time then it sounds right on the money.

 

It's probably no bad thing to replace the sensor anyway. It's not an expensive job at all.

 

The speed sensor does an awful lot. It tell the power steering how much assistance to give, affects the HICAS and tells the gearbox what to do at what speed. I assume it's linked to the ECU? for engine management too.

 

Just replace it and that's one other thing you have illiminated at the least.

 

Anders is the expert here. He correctly diagnosed my problem right from the start.

 

I agree with you that your garage sounds a bit lackadaisical. My garage is a small country one but knows the right contacts.

 

They are also now very used to me turning up and telling them what the problem due to the knowledge on this forum!!!!

 

Let us know ho you get on.

 

Simomn Pass 1990300ZXTTJAPIMPORTAUTO

 

On the subject on Power slides! My neighbours must hate me as every night I go the same route home. There is a T junction and i turn right at that. I always power slide it and bring it straight before the chicane. I can't resist it!

 

My box is still holding up.

 

If it's wet I regularly go to a big car park near me and practice those Tiff Needell style power slides. If you get used to it there then it won't be a surprise when it happens for real.

 

My experience at coping with big slides has saved me from many a smash!!!!

 

Simon

 

OK, this is what I know......

 

The speed sensor curcuit starts at the speed sensor (obvious!) and then makes its way to the speedo and then back to the ECU. The ECU then uses this data for the power steering, Hicas, Auto box etc etc. This is what I have been told by many conversion specialists. If ne1 knows different then please correct me.

 

Therefore, there is a fault in the curcuit between the speed sensor and ECU because your ECU is getting dodgy information.

 

Some speedo conversions have been known to cause these problems! They work by altering the pulse received by the speed sensor before it reaches the speedo. If they are wired incorrectly then it can screw up the readings being sent back to the ECU. Also, some of the conversion boxes used are of shit quality and can cause intermitent problems. I have experienced both an incorrect installation and poor quality conversion box.

 

If its not this then like Simon said, start looking at the speed sensor. I would expect gear box problems too with a faulty speed sensor. Replace it anyway. $88 from Courtesy Nissan. Do the Thottle position sensor at the same time $28. Shipping will be cheap because these are small/light parts.

 

A Nissan consult test will highlight the problem. Low fluid should only affect the P/S and Hicas, not the speedo? Are they replacing the speedo or the conversion box because I doubt its the speedo itself?

 

I would start from scratch. Remove conversion and put back to original condition. Get consult test done. If it reads a faulty speed sensor then replace. Then reinstall coversion.

 

Holding the auto box in selection 2 will not allow the box to change passed 2nd gear. Obviously it will still use first gear when its needed at lower speeds. In theory you can force second gear at any time and slide it between 30 - 75 mph ish... Full kickdown over 75 will force 3rd gear although you have to keep it near full thottle to hold this gear. Power mode will help. Hold mode prevents too much power going to the rear wheels. It should'nt rev much past 3K and will not pull away as aggressively. Its designed for snow conditions.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Andy

 

Thanks guys this info is exactly what I needed to know.

The car currently has the original speedo minus the conversion and is intermitantly working. They removed the conversion because the speedo stopped altogether.

It may have been the speed sensor all along.

As they disconnected the HICAS light I have no idea whether all is well but on running HICAS diags the rear wheels steer which looks like a good sign.

The power steering feels relatively heavy at parking but light on the move, this would fit in with the speed sensor theory too.

They are meant to be fitting a new speedo head tomorrow so I will tell them about the speed sensor. Where exactly is it on the box and what does it look like?

They have another Z for sale and suspect they will raid it for parts if needed.

Again, Thanks!

 

The Hicas diagnostics won't detect a faulty speed sensor will it? As nowt is moving then all will appear well. The flashing power light is what's telling you something is wrong.

 

The speed sensor can be located from underneath and bolts into the gearbox before it disappears into the engine bay. As usual I paid mit mots to do this for me but had a good look while it was on the ramps. The sensor is about the radious of a 10p and looks like a silver torch battery or capacitor with 2 wires coming out of it. It spins and the contact pickups convert the motion to a signal. It took the guys about 15 minutes of fiddling to fit it. As I diagnosed the problem and told them where to get the part they didn't charge me for labour either.

 

As Anders says for $88 just get it in and stop those greas monkeys at your place from conning you into a new speedo. don't let them fit an old one from the other car as it will go too eventually. Get the speedo conversion done after you have the speed sensor. You don't need to know the exact speed anyway the ZX hjas only 2 speeds anyway! Feckin fast and STOP!

 

Simon

 

Sorted!

Give yourselves a round of applause for a correct diagnosis.

They fitted a new speed sensor, oil & filter change and everything seems to be working again. Lots of power, nicely weighted steering and a speedo that works.

Only problem is...

The speedo they fitted is only marked to 110mph and I get the Jap 60mph warning beep.

I suspect the car now has a speed restrictor at 110mph? Otherwise it's going to be off the scale anyway.

My old speedo was marked from 0-180mph, much more fun. I'll have to get this replaced or something.

 

Chris, glad to hear we got it right.

 

The speedo does not have the speed restriction in it. The ECU does. You will need something like an HKS speed defenser or simply get a JWT chip which gets rid of the speed restriction. My car has the beep but only at 115mph. Simply add 30mph or so to this and I can't hear it!! Sorted.

 

My jap speck speedo was converted to mph ang so has 180mph on the clock. I would put your jap spec back in. It's the garages fault for not diagnosing the fault. Get them to pay for it!!!!

 

Simon