OK my Z went on the rollers again yesterday first to see how much power it was making now with the BoostJets installed and JWT Chip and also to do a before and after dyno run using my standard Millers Oil and then with this new much Hyped Royal Purple Stuff...

 

It says on the can that it will actually increase BHP, improve fuel economy, reduce emmision by up to 50% and give a much better wear rate than the leading oil... To good to be true??? Thought i'd give it a go as my garage we're offering me free dyno runs and the oil at cost price to see if it would really work!!!

 

Ok so my first 3 runs with my normal oil gave my Z an overall output of 377.8 BHP / & 349.6 ibft of torque running at 1 Bar boost & Optimax..

 

Then the oil change...

 

The diff oil/ gearbox and engine oil we're all drained and replaced with the Royal Purple stuff.. From the stench of the diff and gearbox oil it smelt like it hadn't been change in the lifetime of my car, about 14Years!!! :hurl:

 

The new stuff is a really dark purple colour (Suppose it would be with a name like that!)

 

Than after the engine was warmed up it was back on the dyno...

 

To my and my mechanics amazement the Z suddenly shot up to an overall power rating of 383.7BHP and 391.2ibft torque!!! That an increase of 6BHP and 42ibft of torque!!! We did another 2 runs just to make sure they we're conclusive and the following 2 runs gave and extra 0.1BHP so 383.8BHP overall!!! :bow: Was dissapointed I didn't get over the magic 400BHP but thats probably down to the old JWT chip so if anyone knows of a better more up to date ECU I Could replace my JWT with then let me know!! :bow:

 

I've also got the runs on my mobile but need a decent 3GP to avi converter if anyone wants to see them...

 

Anyway here are the pics...

 

 

 

 

 

 

For more info on Royal Purple Oil go there website at

http://www.synerlec.com

Glad to see you like the RP, the best test is when you have driven it for 2-3k miles then you might see an slight improvement again, as you will have got rid of some of the crap that biulds up in the engine and turbos.

Have known a turbo that was spooling on a landrover at 3500 to stat spooling better at 2500k after a few months on RP. It really is as good as it says on the tin.

Call me a sceptic, but i'm pretty sure that changing gearbox, diff and engine oil on any car thats due an oil change will result in a bhp increase, especially if you go for a slightly thinner oil than what was in there before. I recently changed the oil on my new run around, i think the stuff had been in there for an age and was like treacle. I changed the oil and noticed a definite increase in oerformance but that was using cheapy nasty oil not some pricey 'designer' oil.

 

my 10p's worth thats all.

You say that you changed to Royal Purple 10w-40 but from what? 10w-60 Millers I'm guessing, is this correct?

 

Cheers

Simon

You say that you changed to Royal Purple 10w-40 but from what? 10w-60 Millers I'm guessing, is this correct?

 

Cheers

Simon

 

Hi Si!!! Used millers fully synthetic 10-40w in the Engine before the Royal Purple stuff and the Millers was only in there for 12months as was the gearbox and diff oil... Had the millers oils put in 12Months ago when I had my new engine transplant, was very sceptical myself but you really can notice a major difference on the road... Wish I was on commison for Royal Purple!!! :D

 

Cheers, Jon

Very impressive, am coming down to Cornwall in a couple of months time to stay with friends in Carharrick, perhaps we can meet up, will probably come down in the Zed weather permitting

Very impressive, am coming down to Cornwall in a couple of months time to stay with friends in Carharrick, perhaps we can meet up, will probably come down in the Zed weather permitting

 

Yeah, that would be good let me know... I'll try and organise a mini meet down here too if the other South West Z memebers are free!!

If its a couple of months then I may be around. Just waiting for the surf to return before arranging a vist!

Well if I can get enough of us together I may even arrange to do a bbq or better still barbie on the beach!!!

Your going to 'do Barbie on the beach', awesome! sure she'll love it mate.

 

Dave

You forgot to mention the extra 41ibft torque!! Ambient Air temp was the same 17 degrees, as the dyno computer mesures this as well, oil was checked before and after, full to the max level and water temp was also equal to previous run... It does work and does was it says on the tin!! Try some!! ;)

Nice one jon !!!! welldone :bow:

Is a awesome oil

These will deliver anywhere UK

http://www.oil-shop-uk.co.uk

Be interested to know what the standard Nissan oil filter works to. Might be interesting to find a slightly different filter to filter to a lower micron rating. I guess OEM filters will filter down to about 40 - 50 micron. Finding a spin on filter made by Pall or Hydac could be good to filter down to 25 micron. Although if you go too low, you may end up filtering out the additives or blocking the filter up more quickly.

Nice one jon !!!! welldone :bow:

 

Thanks Jonny! Gonna do an oil change in Feb or March of next year seeing as the oil's got a few miles now and it's gonna be sent of for analysis to compare it to fresh new oil and how the old oil has broken down... Be interesting to see what quality has been lost if any.... Hope all is good with you mate, heard your getting a Twin Turbo Z sorted out! :hyper:

Be interested to know what the standard Nissan oil filter works to. Might be interesting to find a slightly different filter to filter to a lower micron rating. I guess OEM filters will filter down to about 40 - 50 micron. Finding a spin on filter made by Pall or Hydac could be good to filter down to 25 micron. Although if you go too low, you may end up filtering out the additives or blocking the filter up more quickly.

 

Good point Si, I know we put a standard Nissan Filter went we put this oil in though... Have to see what the results are after it's gone away for testing...

I can run a patch of oil through a 5 micron membrane and look at it under my microscope. I have all the gear here for when I look a Skydrol (aviation hydraulic fluid) which I pull through a 1micron membrane. I doubt use engine oil could be successfully pulled through a 1micron membrane even if it was warmed to so that it were about 60 centerstokes.

 

You'd be horrified I think, even after looking at the sample under a 5 micron membrane. Engines are designed to run at difference tolerance levels, so whilst you may expect a good ISO cleanliness code to be say, 14/12 in a healthy hydraulic system, you may see engine oil from a car at 18/16 or something greater, which is perfectly acceptable, but as a result will have far more contamination in it.

 

Would be interesting to know what sort of cleanliness levels you need from our cars. Oil could last longer if the filtration was better.

I had a look on that site a few weeks ago, the only thing I found was that the choice of oils was so numerous it was difficult to decide which one to go for!!, nevertheless i've not a heard a bad word about RP, a lot of the Skyline owners recommend it too... think i'll email RP and see what they recommend for a std ZX and a modified ZX...

:rofl: is this thread for real? :rofl:

:rofl: is this thread for real? :rofl:

 

Oh yeah Andy! Even if this thread is a year old now! Got the dyno results from back then to prove it!

How old was the oil that was in there before? TBH the fact you said the diff oil looked like it had never been changed would tend to point where the losses were coming from ;) You can't compare old, contaminated oil to brand new oil....

How old was the oil that was in there before? TBH the fact you said the diff oil looked like it had never been changed would tend to point where the losses were coming from ;) You can't compare old, contaminated oil to brand new oil....

 

The engine oil was less than a year old and I guess by the smell the diff and gearbox oil had never been changed! Not only that the turbo's we're boosting harder and sppoling up quicker after the engine oil change from the dyno graph...

Its like the spark plug ads that claim extra power - if its working right then you can't improve it! Sorry but there is no way in the world that oil could improve power output! The ONLY way I can see any difference being noticable is if the gearbox/diff oil was seriously degraded and actually causing wear rather than lubricating - in which case the box and diff would be literally eating themselves :confused: The fact the turbos were boosting harder and spooling up quicker has **** all to do with the oil....... Which would kind of suggest it wasn't the oil that made the difference in the first place....

Its like the spark plug ads that claim extra power - if its working right then you can't improve it! Sorry but there is no way in the world that oil could improve power output! The ONLY way I can see any difference being noticable is if the gearbox/diff oil was seriously degraded and actually causing wear rather than lubricating - in which case the box and diff would be literally eating themselves :confused: The fact the turbos were boosting harder and spooling up quicker has **** all to do with the oil....... Which would kind of suggest it wasn't the oil that made the difference in the first place....

 

agreed.

Its like the spark plug ads that claim extra power - if its working right then you can't improve it! Sorry but there is no way in the world that oil could improve power output! The ONLY way I can see any difference being noticable is if the gearbox/diff oil was seriously degraded and actually causing wear rather than lubricating - in which case the box and diff would be literally eating themselves :confused: The fact the turbos were boosting harder and spooling up quicker has **** all to do with the oil....... Which would kind of suggest it wasn't the oil that made the difference in the first place....

 

Not true Andy. Oil has a 'drag' on all moving parts - if this oil is slighty thinner at operating temperature it'll make a difference.

 

Simon.

p.s. Comment for Jonlowndes - The standard 'XZ' (and I do mean XZ not ZX) gear oil that Nissan use for the tranny and diff - is very whiffy when new!

Sorry Andy, you’re right on almost every occasion, in this instance you’re wrong :nono: . All oil has a coefficient of friction rating simply put is how slippery it is. Some oils have been proven scientifically in the past to increase BHP because all the surfaces have become free of friction to a point they cause so much less drag on each part surface the engine results in more of the power created in the chambers transmitted to the flywheel. This by definition equates to more power. :hyper:

In many cases I understand that there is a price to pay for this type of oil in that it is either stupendously expensive, restricts you to a temperature range or has a very short shelf life. I am not supporting the claims that this oil can do that, but I am just pointing out to you that some oils can and do increase power, is this one? Probably. If it does then its worth buying for the simple fact that there will be less strain on any surface it comes into contact with.

 

 

 

 

Its like the spark plug ads that claim extra power - if its working right then you can't improve it! Sorry but there is no way in the world that oil could improve power output! The ONLY way I can see any difference being noticable is if the gearbox/diff oil was seriously degraded and actually causing wear rather than lubricating - in which case the box and diff would be literally eating themselves :confused: The fact the turbos were boosting harder and spooling up quicker has **** all to do with the oil....... Which would kind of suggest it wasn't the oil that made the difference in the first place....

No you're missing my point. I know oil has a coefficient of drag. To say that the old oil was causing 6hp of losses is wrong though - do you realise how much that is? If the correct grade of oil was used in the first place, was fresh, along with fresh gear and diff oil, then no way would you gain 6hp.... The diff and gearbox oil are much more likely the key on this one....