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Im looking to get some big power so im looking at buying a 2nd hand engine to build in my garage so i dont have to take mine off the road.... i know some people have gone V8... is this a masive benifit? or am i best of getting a stock TT engine and riping it to bits and re-building with forged internals and bigger tubs etc? im looking to get about 600+ bhp that's reliable without Nitrous, as i think mine is already running about 500 with my nitrous (not had it rolling roaded yet!)

 

any advice would be ace :bow:

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If you're after big power then go down the big turbo route.

If you're after resonable power with finesse and control go V8. I went V8 because I don't like turbo engines. If you can live with lag then sticking with the VG is certainly easier. If you're interested in the V8 route, drop me a line and can have a chat about it. Can do a kit for the nissan V8 with mounts, dry sump system, manifolds etc. Could even turbo / supercharge one if you twisted my arm enough!

I'm doing a big NA build on my v8 for hopefully power and control but it ain't cheap!

Costs are comparable for big turbo vs non-mental V8 conversion (read stock bottom end on nissan VH engine).

  • Author
If you're after big power then go down the big turbo route.

If you're after resonable power with finesse and control go V8. I went V8 because I don't like turbo engines. If you can live with lag then sticking with the VG is certainly easier. If you're interested in the V8 route, drop me a line and can have a chat about it. Can do a kit for the nissan V8 with mounts, dry sump system, manifolds etc. Could even turbo / supercharge one if you twisted my arm enough!

I'm doing a big NA build on my v8 for hopefully power and control but it ain't cheap!

Costs are comparable for big turbo vs non-mental V8 conversion (read stock bottom end on nissan VH engine).

 

what sort of cost is it for all the mounts etc mate? ill prob be doing all the work myself as i like getting my hands dirty and doing things myself! is it a small block chevy engine you use?

what sort of cost is it for all the mounts etc mate? ill prob be doing all the work myself as i like getting my hands dirty and doing things myself! is it a small block chevy engine you use?

No mate,John's gone for the Nissan VH45 ;)

As manta says mate, Nissan VH45DE. All alloy quad cam with VTC, really nice engine. So much lighter than the VG that the suspension on the car it's in sits 2" higher now!!

Not sure on parts costs yet as still some bits to finalise like dry sump pump mount. Manifolds will be a few quid as they're a work of art! 4 x 44mm dia 1m long primaries down each side.

As manta says mate, Nissan VH45DE. All alloy quad cam with VTC, really nice engine. So much lighter than the VG that the suspension on the car it's in sits 2" higher now!!

Not sure on parts costs yet as still some bits to finalise like dry sump pump mount. Manifolds will be a few quid as they're a work of art! 4 x 44mm dia 1m long primaries down each side.

 

what is this engine out of and what sort of power are you running

stewiedoom1.gif

 

 

Engine is out of US + Jap market Infiniti Q45 (big horrible saloon thing). In stock form it makes about 310bhp running awful intake and manifolds with really tame cams. Usually just swapping the manifolds and a re-map gets about 380-400.

 

Currently got 2 specs:

Leighs / Leons: Stock bottom end, cams about 256deg at 50thou with tuned tubular manifolds and 8 x 45mm throttle bodies on independant runners. Mild port re-working on inlets and exhausts, valves de-masked in combustion chamber. Rev limit 7.5k

 

Mine: 5mm overbore for 5.0l, bespoke slipper pistons for ~12.7:1CR, bespoke rods, lightened and heat treated crank. Cams are 280deg at 50 thou (30/70 70/30) Same intake / exhaust manifolds as above. More headwork including removal of divider on inlets and valves back-cut to imporve flow over tight side. Rev limit 8.5-9k

Both engines running dry sump systems and emerald management, electric water pump.

Don't know on power figures yet, but they'll be mega responsive. My spec should net hopefully 110-130bhp/l but time will tell. Exhaust scavenging is a little less efficient on a 90degree crank V8 then a flat plane of a four pot.

  • Author

That sounds very impresive mate.. so your hoping to get about 600+ bhp without turbo or supercharger? sounds good to me, although i would prob be tempted to supercharge or turbo charge it with all your forged internals! you should be able to get some bonkers power then!

 

Engine is out of US + Jap market Infiniti Q45 (big horrible saloon thing). In stock form it makes about 310bhp running awful intake and manifolds with really tame cams. Usually just swapping the manifolds and a re-map gets about 380-400.

 

Currently got 2 specs:

Leighs / Leons: Stock bottom end, cams about 256deg at 50thou with tuned tubular manifolds and 8 x 45mm throttle bodies on independant runners. Mild port re-working on inlets and exhausts, valves de-masked in combustion chamber. Rev limit 7.5k

 

Mine: 5mm overbore for 5.0l, bespoke slipper pistons for ~12.7:1CR, bespoke rods, lightened and heat treated crank. Cams are 280deg at 50 thou (30/70 70/30) Same intake / exhaust manifolds as above. More headwork including removal of divider on inlets and valves back-cut to imporve flow over tight side. Rev limit 8.5-9k

Both engines running dry sump systems and emerald management, electric water pump.

Don't know on power figures yet, but they'll be mega responsive. My spec should net hopefully 110-130bhp/l but time will tell. Exhaust scavenging is a little less efficient on a 90degree crank V8 then a flat plane of a four pot.

12.7:1 CR + boost = BOOOOOMMMMMM!!!! You could run 6-7psi on 10.2:1 if you really wanted to.

Turbo is the last thing in the world I'd ever do! The whole point of doing this in the first place was to eliminate lag and make a Z that actually drives well.

I'm not too fussed about the numbers / bragging rights, its all about response and delivery.

TBH if it makes 450 it'll be quick enough especially as it's much lighter than stock.

Lol, yes, it's in more bits.

Engine is currently test fitted in a scrapper so Leon can fab up the manifolds. Mounts and sump pan are done though.

After manifolds its sorting out plumbing and wiring. Dry sump pump location is a right pain in the arse as the anti-roll bar is right where I wanted to fit it. Looks like its either drop the ARB down or extend the crank pulley then fit the pump roughly where the rad normally sits. Will then use a lower, thicker inclined rad and duct it properly.

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