I am just about to remove the timing belt to put on the new one, just one question now I have removed the crank pulley etc and read the 60K instructions. Do I still need to use the belt wrap technique to stop any of the sprockets turning as I remove the belt or can I just cut the old belt off and put the new one on without any of the sprockets etc turning?? Cheers in advance :duffer:

Not exactly sure what you're asking, but the internals are less likely to move if you have already removed the spark plugs - makes it much easier to turn the engine over too.

Just take it off and they probably won't move unless you nudge them.

It's easy enough to push them back into alignment anyway.

The spark plugs have been removed mate, the question I am asking is: Is it Ok to just cut or take the timing belt off now without any of the sprockets moving out of place?? As I have read once the belt is removed the sprockets can violently turn causing damage, as they are under tension from the belt??

Just take it off and they probably won't move unless you nudge them.

It's easy enough to push them back into alignment anyway.

Sorted thats the answer I am looking for :duffer: :duffer:

all you have to bud,is turn crank pulley bolt until all wheels are at there position,slacken 2x12mm bolts and 1x12mm nut! tensioner will slacken and belt can be removed no need to cut it,i hope your using a new tensioner dab a tiny bit of tipex on the belt where the bottom crank sprocket is marked then the rest should line up,you may have to move the wheels slightly to get alingment of the marks,once belt is on and the gap between tensioner is around 3mm add slight tension to the tensioner so the belt remains tight and tigheten bolts on tensioner,once done turn belt around once and then back again checking for tension job done

all you have to bud,is turn crank pulley bolt until all wheels are at there position,slacken 2x12mm bolts and 1x12mm nut! tensioner will slacken and belt can be removed no need to cut it,i hope your using a new tensioner dab a tiny bit of tipex on the belt where the bottom crank sprocket is marked then the rest should line up,you may have to move the wheels slightly to get alingment of the marks,once belt is on and the gap between tensioner is around 3mm add slight tension to the tensioner so the belt remains tight and tigheten bolts on tensioner,once done turn belt around once and then back again checking for tension job done

Cheers Greg :duffer: Yeah I am using new idlers and tensioner.

greg just pop round and show me how to do it, il watch :p