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I get asked all the time "why do you advise against the use of 10w-60?".

 

Let's get one thing clear, I supply 10w-60 and recommend it where it is appropriate for the engine or the application but conversly I caution against it's misuse!

 

I have debated this many times on many car forums and I know there are some that do not agree with me however I have never had a reasonable technical explanation why 10w-60 is in fact suitable, it's certainly not mentioned in the handbooks of many modern highly tuned performance cars, with the exception of some Alfa Romeos for "spirited driving" whatever that is meant supposed mean.

 

Explaining this is diffucult so there may be questions but I'll try my best to explain it in plain English!

 

Lets look at what oil specs actually mean and particularly the higher number which is in fact the oils SAE number (the "w" number is in fact the cold crank viscosity and measured in a different way) The SAE number is measured by the oils viscosity at 100degC.

 

Your cars require according to the manufacturers specs, sae 30, 40 and in some cases sae 50.

 

To attain the relevent sae number the oil has to be at 100degC (no thinner than)

 

SAE 30 11cst approx

SAE 40 14cst approx

SAE 50 18cst approx

 

Centistokes (cst) is the measure of a fluid's resistance to flow (viscosity). It is calculated in terms of the time required for a standard quantity of fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. The higher the value, the more viscous the fluid.

 

As viscosity varies with temperature, the value is meaningless unless accompanied by the temperature at which it is measured. In the case of oils, viscosity is generally reported in centistokes (cst) and usually measured at 40degC and 100degC.

 

SAE 60 is in fact 24cst viscosity at 100degC!

 

This is 33% thicker than an sae 50, 70% thicker than an sae 40 and over 100% thicker than an sae 30!

 

So, what's the problem with this thickness?

 

Well, this is measured at 100degC and at lower temps (70-90degC) all oils are thicker than at 100degC so the problem is compounded to some extent.

 

The downsides of such a thick oil (when not specified) are as follows:

 

Additional friction, heat and wear.

A reduction of BHP at the wheels

Lower fuel consumption

 

The thicker the oil is the more friction and drag and the more power the engine needs to move it around the engine which inevitably translates to less at the wheels.

 

So, when do we spec a thicker oil?

 

Well, you will probably have seen us on occassions recommending a 10w-50 but only in these circumstances.

 

1. If the car is heavily modded and heat/oil temperatures are excessive.

2. If the car is used on track and heat/oil temperatures are excessive.

3. If it's required by the handbook.

 

Our criteria for this is based on oil temps as an sae 40 semi-synthetic can handle around 110degC for limited periods whereas a proper synthetic sae 40 can hande 120-130degC for prolonged periods due to its thermal stability.

 

Once you see more than say 120degC for prolonged periods an sae 50 is adviseable as it is 18cst at 100degC and still 11cst at 130degC! This is in fact the same as an sae 30 at 100degC.

 

More importantly at 90degC an sae 40 is 15cst, an sae 50 is 20cst and an sae 60 is 30cst!

 

In a worst case scenario with thick oils (when not required) is that you will experience air entrainment and cavitation inside the bearings at high RPM. Not clever stuff!

 

I know this is technical stuff but oil is a combination of science and engineering and few people know enough about it to make an informed choice. Just because your mates use it and have had no problems is not a good enough reason to use it, your engine would prefer and benefit from the correct oil.

 

Cheers

Simon

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Sh*t...didn't know there was soooo much in it... :bow:

i have been advised against this oil even tho i can get it free at work..

 

JetOil.jpg

  • Author

It quality-wise is the best you can get, it has to be!

 

It's pretty much 100% ester basestock and unless you're Richard Branson, you won't be able to afford it!

 

Cheers

Simon

So come on final answer so there's no need for anything to be said on oil any more, name your the oil recommended by you for TT's & NA's

All i have been told (outside the forum) is that in high performance cars like ours anything mineral could start to clog at very high temp's But I ask....Was fully synthetic oil about when these cars were new? As it been around that long.

 

Question 2/. (not being perdantic)... But as a kind of trader would it not be fair for you to subscribe Simon?

So come on final answer so there's no need for anything to be said on oil any more, name your the oil recommended by you for TT's & NA's

 

I have quite a bit of faith in you chris. You do know whats what with these cars mate. what do you use. What does macca use. John Dixon aint here to ask anymore but needless to say for years some of the members on here have been running 300ZX's and they have done OK i presume. So there must be some kind of preferance.

It quality-wise is the best you can get, it has to be!

 

It's pretty much 100% ester basestock and unless you're Richard Branson, you won't be able to afford it!

 

Cheers

Simon

 

Hi Simon!!! Have you ever heard of this "Royal Purple" stuff??? From what i've read allthough it's quiet expensive it's supposed to be "one of the best" oils you can use in a performance engine...

 

The nascar boys use it in the states, and cause of it's properties can net you an additional 4.7% bhp just by an oil change! Just wondered what you're thoughts are on it as i'm thinking of using it in my Z next oil change...

 

Website here... http://www.synerlec.com

 

Cheers, Jon

I have quite a bit of faith in you chris. You do know whats what with these cars mate. what do you use. What does macca use. John Dixon aint here to ask anymore but needless to say for years some of the members on here have been running 300ZX's and they have done OK i presume. So there must be some kind of preferance.

 

:rofl: :rofl:

  • Author

My recommendations are all in my oil advce thread and have been for a long time, just take a look.

 

To subscribe as a trader I would need to talk to the Club and the admins to agree a way forward.

 

RP, I had some tested back in the summer and there were some interesting results but not for discussion on a public forum. You can always email me off the boards though.

 

Cheers

Simon

:rofl: :rofl:

 

 

:confused: Eh ?

It quality-wise is the best you can get, it has to be!

 

It's pretty much 100% ester basestock and unless you're Richard Branson, you won't be able to afford it!

 

Cheers

Simon

 

 

got a few contact in the right places @ the airport that can sort me out enough cans for an oil change might give it a try.

  • Author

You need to know what viscosity it is first though as it may not be suitable.

 

Cheers

Simon

that was my first thought ill check.

:rofl: :rofl:

 

LOL @ you Mark.

 

To say the least I am now totally confused. So I am asking (not the "Experts"?) but the regular users. Simon I have no doubt in you knowing what you are talking about mate at all. BUT! it seems that some people think you rate the oil because you sell it? I dont know. My car cost me £4500 of my hard earned money so I dont want to take risks. NO disrespect what so ever I promise.

 

WHAT FOOKIN OIL SHALL I USE?

 

HALFORDS 3.99 a ltr 20/50, Castrol R. I like the smell of that stuff. WD40? EP90, Tesco's sunflower oil is quite thin?

 

LMFAO. :rofl:

cant go wrong with RS or millers Vinni ;)

  • Author

In that case I would recommend every oil from 0w-20 to 20w-60 and from Castrol, Mobil, Amsoil, Silkolene, Fuchs and Motul!

 

I recommend oils because they are suitable for the application, why else would I do it as I sell all the major makes anyway.

 

I recommend Fully synthetic if the car is modded/driven hard and generally 10w-50 as being the most suitable grade.

 

I recommend either fully or semi-synthetic for the stock road cars either 5w-40 or 10w-40. Brands, down to you but use a quality one and avoid the cheapies.

 

Cheers

Simon

Im in the RAF and work as an engineer or tornado fighter jets, we use OX-26 how do i find out if its any good or what viscosity it is?

Just done oil service and thought I'd give The Royal Purple a try, using 5w40 while its now cold...

 

Seems to do the trick, cars running smooth and have heard numerous reccomendations. ;)

  • Author
Im in the RAF and work as an engineer or tornado fighter jets, we use OX-26 how do i find out if its any good or what viscosity it is?

 

The technical data sheet which all oils have. Looks like a 0w-20 something to me.

 

Cheers

Simon

I'm picking a car up in a few days that has oil cooled turbos, do you think it might be better to use 10w-60 in that case? I can imagine the oil will get rather hot indeed under load!

 

I'd have preferred water cooled turbos but there you go. I'll just have to stick a bigger oil cooler & oil temp sensor on the car to compensate.

  • Author

You still dont need a 10w-60 for oil cooled turbos, oil cools by moving fast, the faster you can get it to move/take away heat the better.

 

Go no thicker than an SAE30 or else that oil will start to slow down.

 

Cheers

 

Simon.

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