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Bloody car is hesitating again! Help please?

I've not long since fixed one hesitation problem (which took months to find!) now there's another one! The previous problem was due to the fuel pump voltage regulator being faulty which I replaced & then the car was fine for months.

It seems to idle rough at tickover & the power delivery is somewhat uneven but I don't think it's a spark problem cos the engine just cut out the other day as if I'd run out of juice! Has anyone out there had similar problems?

Shaun

 

[This message has been edited by shaunmac (edited 22-01-2002).]

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Sounds like you could have a fueling problem to me Shaun - has the fuel pressure regulator or fuel damper ever been replaced? Is the fuel pump noisey at all? I suppose another problem could be a vacuum leak - check all the hoses for security...

 

CheerZ,

 

Andy

i get the very same problem but at exactly the same speed and revs....just uner 2.5 and 50 miles an hour the car feels like its getting fuel starvation put your foot down just a bit and it goes ive had this problem ever since i got the car

If it's cutting out suddenly I had a similar problem that turned out to be my TPS. Easy way to test it... disconnect it and let the ECU substitute its own value. If the problem goes away, buy a new TPS.

My car used to cut out sometimes when coming up to a junction (which is really inconvenient in an auto) and it turned out to be dodgy wiring on the TPS.

I would be inclined to try taking the TPS apart and cleaning both the contacts and spraying contact cleaner inside it if that's possible. It's only a potentiometer/rheostat and the carbon tracks get dirty. Secondly, I would clean the throttle bodies. Good info at www.z-car.net

Seriously, just disconnect it. The car's not going to run perfect but it will eliminate any faults in the wiring, TPS itself, connectors, etc. If the problem goes away you know where to look.

  • Author

Thanks for that, I'll give it a go now!

Hmmm, it still stutters when I drive it even with that disconnected. Too good to be true I guess!

 

[This message has been edited by shaunmac (edited 22-01-2002).]

FUELING FUELING FUELING!!!! wink.gif

 

CheerZ,

 

Andy

I had this problem last week, turned out to be a connection on one of the coil packs which resulted in the car only firing on 5 cylinders, try pushing them all down to make a good connection and see if this sorts out the problem.

Hope this helps,

Brian

  • Author

I've tried that but it didn't make any difference. Saying that, the next stage is to pull the coil packs out & spray them with WD40, then change the plugs.

Thanks for everyone's help by the way, much appreciated.

Shaun

Shaun - check the fuel pump control unit at the rear of the car...

 

CheerZ,

 

Andy

He he,

 

Duffman's only saying that 'cause I have just replaced a dodgy FPC, with the help of Andy and Aarons diagnostics.

 

Shaun, Check the voltages at the fuel pump, pick up on the Blue/Red tracer wire = '-' pump and White/Purple tracer wire = '+' pump.

 

Figures should be:

 

Battery voltage 1 sec initial start up

Idle 6v approx

Running (off boost) 7v approx

Boost battery voltage

 

HTH

 

tim

 

  • Author

Ha, that was the first thing that I changed cos that's what had gone down the first time around. Unfortunately though it isn't that!

I've run diagnostics on the ecu & it's reporting that the mixture is rich on the LHS. Yet it's fine on the right so I rekon that perhaps the Oxygen sensor is knackered!

It isn't just O2 sensors that can cause that behaviour - a large boost leak will cause one side to run rich, uncorrectably rich (more air being drawn through the MAS than is ending up ingested into the cylinders)

 

(while a vacuum leak would make it run lean)

  • Author

YOu might be right because I removed the air folw meter & the hose that goes to both sides & the amount of air being drawn into the LHS is far greater than the RHS!

Only problem is where! I had the whole front bumper of yesterday (took 6 hours!), checked the intercoolers & pipes but no problem! I can only think that the leak must be near the turbo. The car is running like a bag of shite though & is seriously doing my head in big time!!!!!!

I may be wrong here (again!!!) but it sounds like a vacuum leak and not a boost leak because you say you have different volumes of air being drawn into each side of the engine. A boost leak would still draw equal quantities in.

 

So it must be between the air filter and the turbo I would have thought.

 

Mike

However, reading through what I've just written, that would only apply when the car was on boost (obviously). DOH!!!

  • Author

Well, I rekon that you could be right because it's running like a pile of S*** when it's ticking over too!

Dodgy crank angle sensor?

Also the key on the CAS/cam can wear so giving an inconsitant timing reading.

 

Jezz clutching at straws, expensive ones at that.

 

Does sounds like a vacuum leak though.

 

Jezz.

  • Author

I can't find any hose leaks, pulled all the pipes too & from the turbo off but they're all OK. I'm pretty convinced that it isn't a leak now!

The weird thing is that the car seems to be OK after about 6 miles or so.

 

Another weird thing is that when it's failing & I have to put my foot down, the boost seems to run higher than it should, almost as if it's only running on one bank!

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