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I read on many forums about 0w and 5w oils being too thin. I will try to explain it without getting over technical and we'll go from there.

 

0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40 and 15w-40 are all the same thickness (14cst) at 100degC.

 

Centistokes (cst) is the measure of a fluid's resistance to flow (viscosity). It is calculated in terms of the time required for a standard quantity of fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. The higher the value, the more viscous the fluid.

 

As viscosity varies with temperature, the value is meaningless unless accompanied by the temperature at which it is measured. In the case of oils, viscosity is generally reported in centistokes (cst) and usually measured at 40degC and 100degC.

 

So, all oils that end in 40 (sae 40) are around 14cst thickness at 100degC.

 

This applies to all oils that end in the same number, all oils that end in 50 (sae 50) are around 18.5cst at 100degC and all oils that end in 60 (sae 60) are around 24cst at 100degC.

 

With me so far?

 

Great!

 

Now, ALL oils are thicker when cold. Confused? It's true and here is a table to illustrate this.

 

SAE 40 (straight 40)

 

Temp degC.........................Viscosity (thickness)

 

 

0..........................................2579cst

20..........................................473cst

40..........................................135cst

60..........................................52.2cs t

100........................................ 14cst

120.........................................8.8cst

 

As you will see, there is penty of viscosity at 0degC, in fact many times more than at 100degC and this is the problem especially in cold weather, can the oil flow quick enough to protect vital engine parts at start up. Not really!

 

So, given that an sae 40 is 14cst at 100degC which is adequate viscosity to protect the engine, and much thicker when cold, how can a 0w oil be too thin?

 

Well, it can't is the truth.

 

The clever part (thanks to synthetics) is that thin base oils can be used so that start up viscosity (on say a 5w-40 at 0degC) is reduced to around 800cst and this obviously gives much better flow than a monograde sae 40 (2579cst as quoted above).

 

So, how does this happen, well as explained at the beginning, it's all about temperature, yes a thin base oil is still thicker when cold than at 100degC but the clever stuff (due to synthetics again) is that the chemists are able to build these oils out of molecules that do not thin to less than 14cst at 100degC!

 

What are the parameters for our recommendations?

 

Well, we always talk about good cold start protection, by this we mean flow so a 5w will flow better than a 10w and so on. This is why we recommend 5w or 10w as the thickest you want to use except in exceptional circumstances. Flow is critical to protect the engine from wear!

 

We also talk about oil temps, mods and what the car is used for. This is related to the second number xw-(XX) as there may be issues with oil temperatures causing the oil to be too thin and therefore the possibility of metal to metal contact.

 

This is difficult to explain but, if for example your oil temp does not exceed 120degC at any time then a good "shear stable" sae 40 is perfectly capable of giving protection.

 

"Shear stability" is important here because if the oil shears it thins and that's not good!

 

However, if you are seeing temperatures in excess of 120degC due to mods and track use etc then there is a strong argument to using an sae 50 as it will have more viscosity at these excessive temperatures.

 

There are trade offs here. Thicker oils cause more friction and therefore more heat and they waste power and affect fuel consumption so it's always best to use the thinnest oil (i.e. second number) that you can get away with and still maintain oil pressure.

 

There is more but this post is too long already so lets keep it to basics.

 

Cheers

Simon

Featured Replies

nicely explained, thanks.

I sort of got most of it.

Without starting a whole heated debate that I dont fully understand . . . . . for a modified Zed running approx 400hp (chip, filter, exhaust and boost controller) for fast road use, would you recommend a 10/50 fully synthetic? or a 5/40 fully synthetic?

  • Author

10w-50 would be my suggestion, best allround grade between good cold start protection, hot end protection and the viscosity gap is such the oil does not have to be filled with viscosity index improver to keep it in grade, making it more stable than larger viscosity gap oils.

 

Cheers

 

Simon.

:D Simon, great advice mate..:D, My leg has now healed after your Gazebo put a big gash in it at Castle coombe bud....:x: i will get round to buying some Oil off you soon mate:D whats the next show you will be at fella ?

Matt

Good reading so my advice would be to use Castrol RS 10-60 by far the best oil for the 300zx :dance: :nana2:

Good reading so my advice would be to use Castrol RS 10-60 by far the best oil for the 300zx :dance: :nana2:

 

 

Is this what you use in your service at Ztech? just so i know what to use for next oil change as i would like to use same.

 

Dai

Is this what you use in your service at Ztech? just so i know what to use for next oil change as i would like to use same.

 

Dai

yep
  • Author
:D Simon, great advice mate..:D, My leg has now healed after your Gazebo put a big gash in it at Castle coombe bud....:x: i will get round to buying some Oil off you soon mate:D whats the next show you will be at fella ?

Matt

 

Take your pick mate, Japshow, GT Battle, JAE, TOTB, TRAX, Rallyday, JCS.

 

Cheers

Simon ;)

  • Author
Good reading so my advice would be to use Castrol RS 10-60 by far the best oil for the 300zx :dance: :nana2:

 

Oh no please don't start me off again.

 

Must bite my tongue

Must bite my tongue

Must bite my tongue

 

Nope, refuse to argue, 10w-60's the best and I'm the cheapest ;)

 

Cheers

Simon

Oh no please don't start me off again.

 

Must bite my tongue

Must bite my tongue

Must bite my tongue

 

Nope, refuse to argue, 10w-60's the best and I'm the cheapest ;)

 

Cheers

Simon

Castrol RS 10-60 cool so you now sell this :hyper: :hyper: at long last a decent oil to add to other range :p
Oh no please don't start me off again.

 

Must bite my tongue

Must bite my tongue

Must bite my tongue

 

Nope, refuse to argue, 10w-60's the best and I'm the cheapest ;)

 

Cheers

Simon

 

PMSL look in to my eyes the eyes not around the eyes your under

10w-60 is the best oil for the 300zx with out doubt and there shall be no more discussions on the matter 3-2-1 your back in the room

 

greg says..so simon 10w-60 is best for the 300zx

 

simon says yes without doubt it certainly is :p

  • Author

You clearly don't read my posts, I've always sold it, look on my website.

 

I just don't recommend it ;) They're two different things :)

 

Cheers

Simon

You clearly don't read my posts, I've always sold it, look on my website.

 

I just don't recommend it ;) They're two different things :)

 

Cheers

Simon

I can appreciate that you will always recommend what you make the most margin on and not what is best for the vehicle in question again two very different things :tongue:

My Fookin heads spinnin after all that..... then the backin and forthin after that i think i,m gonna throw up then pass out.... What oil am i gonna run in my motor????? :hurl: :hurl: (300bhp at wheels soon to be more with a little help from Baggins)

  • Author

Referee! Unfair and not true, I recommend what's best for the car. My margins are the same on all oils that I sell.

 

Nissan, 300 ZX, 300 ZX Turbo (Z31), 1984-1990

Manufacturer: Nissan Motors Co., Ltd., Tokyo, Japan

Drive type: r.w.d.

Cilinder capacity: 2960 cc

Power output: 230 HP/169 kW at 5200 Rpm

 

Engine VG30ET

Petrol, 4-stroke, 6 cilinder, V, 4 valves/cil., Turbo, liquid cooled

Cilinder capacity: 2960 cc

Capacity: 4 liter

Filter capacity: 0.4 liter

Use: Normal

Change 5000 km/6 months

 

OEM recommendation

Above -20 API: SF SAE 15W-50

Above -20 API: SF SAE 10W-30

Above -20 API: SF SAE 10W-40

Above -20 API: SF SAE 10W-50

Below 15 API: SF SAE 5W-30

 

 

Nissan, 300 ZX, 300 ZX Twin Turbo (Z32), 1990-1991

Manufacturer: Nissan Motors Co., Ltd., Tokyo, Japan

Drive type: r.w.d.

Cilinder capacity: 2960 cc

Power output: 282 HP/208 kW at 6400 Rpm

 

Engine VG30DETT

Petrol, 4-stroke, 6 cilinder, V, 4 valves/cil., Turbo, liquid cooled

Cilinder capacity: 2960 cc

Capacity: 3.4 liter

Filter capacity: 0.4 liter

Use: Normal

Change 10000 km/6 months

 

OEM recommendation

Above -20 API: SG SAE 10W-30

Above -20 API: SG SAE 10W-40

Above -20 API: SG SAE 10W-50

Above -20 API: SG SAE 15W-40

Above -20 API: SG SAE 15W-50

Below 15 API: SG SAE 5W-30

Below -10 API: SG SAE 5W-20

Above -20 CCMC G4 SAE 10W-30

Above -20 CCMC G4 SAE 10W-40

Above -20 CCMC G4 SAE 10W-50

Above -20 CCMC G4 SAE 15W-40

Above -20 CCMC G4 SAE 15W-50

Below 15 CCMC G4 SAE 5W-30

Below -10 CCMC G4 SAE 5W-20

 

Castrol Website says 300ZX Z32 10w-40, 300ZX Z31 10w-40

 

Motul Technical Department recommendation says 10w-40 or 10w-50

 

Silkolene Technical Department says 300ZX Z32 and Z31 10w-40 or 10w-50

 

OATS technical database says 300ZX Z32 and Z31 10w-30 or 10w-40

 

Enough said, use what you want, it's your car ;)

 

Cheers

Simon

so your saying 5W is not too thin??? have you seen the W rating for some flushing oils???????? alot of them are 5W

  • Author

The difference between a flushing oil and a proper engine oil is that the flushing oil thins much further and more quickly as it has no VI improvers in it to stop it thinning. This is not the case with an engine oil.

 

What's wrong with 5w?

 

A little more understanding of the facts is required here as the message does not seem to be getting through.

 

Here are the figures for viscosity in cst (centistokes) and temperature for different oils.

 

The first numbers are sae numbers for straight 30,40,50 and 60. The second set of numbers is for various multigrades as they are obviously thinner when cold than straight oils due to lighter viscosity basestocks being used.

 

Monogrades

 

DegC...........0.....20......40......60......100......120

 

Sae 30....1600....315.....95.......39......11........7...

Sae 40....2579....473....135.......52......14.......9....

Sae 50....4592....771....205.......75......18.......11..

Sae 60....7865...1218...303.......105.....24.......14..

 

Multigrades

 

DegC...............0...............10............40..............100

 

0W/20............329............181...........46...............9..

5W/40............811............421...........92..............14..

10W/50..........1039...........539..........117.............18..

15W/50..........1376...........675..........130.............18..

20W/50..........2305..........1015..........148.............18..

 

These two graphs demonstrate the fact that a monograde is the same thickness at 100degC as a multigrade of the same sae number but the distinct benefits that a multigrade brings at lower temperatures. This is obviously benefits cold crank wear as the rate of flow of multigrades is much better at lower temps.

 

There is no temperature where oil suddenly starts to flow better. A 10W/40 for example will flow between -25C and 100C or more, but there is a big difference in the rate of flow (True viscosity at -25C is about 7000 Centistoke(cSt) units, dropping to 14 at 100C. ‘Viscosity’ is just another name for ‘rate of flow’.

 

The question is, at what (sump) temperature is the oil at a viscosity that suits a modern high-RPM engine.

 

Present day designs seem happy on an oil viscosity of 10 to 15 cSt. (But many are OK on less than 10.) 30cSt is too high at high RPM. It can lead to foaming, air entrainment and cavitation.

 

............Temp. for 30cSt (Deg. C).......Temp. for 15cSt.......Temp. for 10cSt

 

5W/40..................71...........................90........................117...............

10W/40................70...........................99........................118...............

10W/50................80...........................109.......................130..............

10W/60................89...........................119.......................142..............

 

This shows that a 5W/40 or a 10W/40 is perfectly adequate for all engines except those that run an unusually high temperatures.

 

Also, a thick oil can lead to trouble unless properly warmed up before high RPM is used.

 

I hope that these figures at least give some insight to what actually happens to the oil inside your engine at different temperatures.

 

Cheers

Simon

My heads spinning, I just ordered some Castrol RS10/60 fully synthetic :)

I use magnatec 10w 40 in my TT and its as quiet as! :bow:

Simon,

At what sort of temp does a modern oil start to degrade?

My thought has always been that you shouldn't say I'll run a 60wt becuase my oil gets up to 100+, but I'll add a bigger cooler and use a grade that will also lube better as it warms up. This was to keep the oil out of the sort of temps that would cause break down.

 

Also, what oil do you recommend for dry sump installs. Was going to go for a 5W30 or something to keep de-aeration as good as possible.

  • Author

John, wow at last, someone who's talking sense! I've found someone who understands the basic principles of oil! Thanks John!

 

Degradation depends mainly on quality so the answer is as long as a piece of string.

 

As far as an sae 40 is concerned, 120degC is about the limit before you need to move to an sae 50. The use of an sae 50 prior to this is simply wasting power and causing additional friction and therefore heat in the engine which long term leads to wear (although no one here believes me on this!).

 

The length of time it takes is more important. A petroleum based oil will lose viscosity (shear) within a thousand miles and at a far more rapid rate, thinning with use.

A synthetic oil (proper pao/ester) will last 9000-12000 miles with no shear loss at all due to the thermal stability of the basestock and the need for little or no VI Improvers which are the element that shears.

 

Yes oil temps have a bearing but you should always take into account that a 5w-40 is thicker at 110degC (12cst) than a 15w-50 at 140degC (8cst) so if high temperatures are not experienced the lower viscosity oils are the intellegent choice for the best levels of all round protection.

 

Dry sump I would use a good shear stable fully synthetic 5w-30 or 5w-40 this is plenty thick enough throughout the temperature range to 120degC.

 

Cheers

Simon

I understand and agree with what Oilman has explained.

 

My only comment in the past was that Mobil-1 0w40 seems too thin at high temps when compared to other oils, which is confusing as it's supposed to be "40" when hot just like the others I've used :confused:

 

I have not experienced this with Castrol RS 0w40 or Shell 5w40. My ZX is fine with either of these oils but I choose the Shell as I collect the pluspoints :D

 

Richard

I have something to say............ It's better to burn out than to fade away..... :tt2:

  • Author

I can't honestly say there's any logic to that as both these oils are the following viscosities at 100degC

 

RS 0w-40 = 12.90cst

M1 0w-40 = 14.30cst

 

In fact at 100degC the RS is thinner than the M1!

 

It could be difference in basestocks or addative packs, I'm not sure.

 

Cheers

Simon

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