I have a 92 J reg N/A Jap import, I have had a delimiter fitted and Uk dials which show up to 180 mph I have also had fitted a HKS twin super dragger straight through S/S exhaust system, HKS Super Megaflo Airfilter and Hard pipe induction pipes The top speed is only 140 mph. I need more power i am looking at Nitrous and a chip but i dont know which chips and which Nitrous system and who in Devon installs and how much? Wouldnt mind more power without nitrous if poss. :confused: :confused:

Well , as a TT driver who owned an NA (235 rwhp) on a chip, air intake and exhaust, I would say that it would be relatively easy to improve on the stock figures and take it to well within the reaches of a stock TT. My own personal choice of weapon would be:

 

Chip, intake, exhaust, lightened pulley/ flywheel, ported intakes, headers.

 

Put together correctly I see no reason why the above would not bring you into the same ballpark as a standard TT. Things to remember: the N/a will pull all the way to 7500 and beyond, and playing with timing and VVTC within the .bin file on your chip will have a for more beneficial effect on the NA than on the TT, especially in the higher reaches of the rev range, when the standard turbos have run out of puff.

 

The most common chip for an NA is the standard Devin chip labelled 270.bin which will take advantage of a free air flow and exhaust, there are more meaty ones available, if you know the right people ;)

Who would I speak to about getting my intakes ported? does any body on the forum do it? how much am I looking at?

Wasn't there a group buy on na manifolds/porting or something? This is going back a bit though

mine still does 112, im not taking it off, you can get upto speeds too easy

My old one easily cracked 135mph but i didn't take it any further

i got 164mph out of my N/A in germany last year but it was on the autoban and it was a long straight-ish bit of road .....i was right on the back bumper of j the gun's TT so i had the slipstrem....

 

she hit's 140/150mph all the time... :bow:

 

..

how could any one prefer the n/a to the tt lol the kick you get when the tubs come in ....its better than sex!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

n/a owners can only dream of tt power ive hit 160 a few times and its me that slows down not the car that would go on much more also i raced a new ferrari the other day he couldnt loose me at all i was in 3rd when he went for it he must of been suprised when i was still on his bumper :bow:

I got touching 170 in my last zed the one that yasseem bought of me, on the m58 (private track) very early morning going to ormskirk. (according to stock clocks) after about 165mph it started rocking from side to side started of very gentle then became increasingly worse pull off the throttle just touching 170 my then wife never spoke for the rest of the journey lol infact she rarely spoke to me at all when we were in that car. The only time i ever got a bit of piece.

You have to remember that the N/A Diff runs a different ratio than the TT so max top end will vary greatly. You could compromise acceleration for top end by simply fitting a TT diff or changing your final drive gears. Same goes for the TT owners, fitting an N/A diff would produce a fast accelerating car but will run out of revs earlier.

 

In an N/A @ 140-145 there is little or no revs left unless you lift the limiter slightly.

 

The PHNW N/A is still running strong, we have tried and tested most available parts of the shelf and have fabricated our own with both good and bad results. Our main goal has always been low end torque and acceleration and to date I have not driven a quicker N/A.

 

The biggest mistake people make when upgrading the N/A is removing/altering the very important BACK-PRESSURE. By altering and fine tuning your exhaust we have seen differences of around 30hp between the best and worst configuration. Low/Mid Torque is badly compromised also with complete free flowing systems.

We have a TT running 480@ the wheels, although it moves once the 2530s have spooled up, the LAG is horrible. After 5k then the little thing is lethal with a recorded top speed of 198mph. My point is this, side by side from a standing start the N/A is much quicker 0-50mph. Around town and everyday driving, a tuned N/A will always win hands down in both response and drivability. On the motorways it is the exact opposite.

 

You need to ask yourself what is the main purpose of your Z “Commuting, Racing, quarter mile, high speed motor way, drifting ect, each will have different setup and maps.

 

There are a few products on the market, sold to improve your N/A performance. Mixed up and installed without professional supervision the results can be little or even worse than stock, carefully choosing the correct parts together with professional precision engineering, the results can be lethal. It doesn’t have to cost the earth like most people think, good research will save you a small fortune.

 

Read some good books and look on forums for ideas.

 

TIP No 1

TAKE YOUR TIME

Refrain from changing too many parts / configurations in one go. Make changes slowly and accurately this way you will reap, both the benefits and will be in a better position to “back pedal”

 

TIP No 2

IF ITS NOT BROKE THEN DONT FIX IT

Big n Shinny means nothing when tuning for performance, engine bling can be bad. Using Silicon to replace your hard wearing stock pipes can/will cause problems sometime in the future due to hoses popping off and the walls going soft under extreme conditions. Soft pipes tend to implode under high temp/pressure resulting in little or no flow through them. They look good and thats about it.

 

TIP 3

HEAT-HEAT-HEAT

Although Heat is a bi-product of all engines, it is also the biggest single cause of poor performance and engine failure. Without going too deep into the various possible outcomes, be sure to allow a true air path both in and out of your engine bay. Removing unwanted/un-needed components from your bay will allow more cold air to circulate. Cold air means lower oil temp thus less engine wear. The BEST SINGLE upgrade for the N/A is to remove the stock rad, plastic cowling, viscose fan, air con “complete” ect and installing a genuine 100% alloy TT KOYO rad. This process will not only dramatically reduce engine bay temp but will also save around 40Kg and will free up upto 20bhp of the crank "not the wheels". The engine will rev quicker, accelerate quicker and use less fuel due to reduced lag

 

There are literally hundreds of tweaks which you can do to the N/A without spending lots of money.

 

Remember

 

RESEARCH RESEARCH RESEARCH

 

Regards

Dave C

You have to remember that the N/A Diff runs a different ratio than the TT so max top end will vary greatly. You could compromise acceleration for top end by simply fitting a TT diff or changing your final drive gears. Same goes for the TT owners, fitting an N/A diff would produce a fast accelerating car but will run out of revs earlier.

 

In an N/A @ 140-145 there is little or no revs left unless you lift the limiter slightly.

 

The PHNW N/A is still running strong, we have tried and tested most available parts of the shelf and have fabricated our own with both good and bad results. Our main goal has always been low end torque and acceleration and to date I have not driven a quicker N/A.

 

The biggest mistake people make when upgrading the N/A is removing/altering the very important BACK-PRESSURE. By altering and fine tuning your exhaust we have seen differences of around 30hp between the best and worst configuration. Low/Mid Torque is badly compromised also with complete free flowing systems.

We have a TT running 480@ the wheels, although it moves once the 2530s have spooled up, the LAG is horrible. After 5k then the little thing is lethal with a recorded top speed of 198mph. My point is this, side by side from a standing start the N/A is much quicker 0-50mph. Around town and everyday driving, a tuned N/A will always win hands down in both response and drivability. On the motorways it is the exact opposite.

 

You need to ask yourself what is the main purpose of your Z “Commuting, Racing, quarter mile, high speed motor way, drifting ect, each will have different setup and maps.

 

There are a few products on the market, sold to improve your N/A performance. Mixed up and installed without professional supervision the results can be little or even worse than stock, carefully choosing the correct parts together with professional precision engineering, the results can be lethal. It doesn’t have to cost the earth like most people think, good research will save you a small fortune.

 

Read some good books and look on forums for ideas.

 

TIP No 1

TAKE YOUR TIME

Refrain from changing too many parts / configurations in one go. Make changes slowly and accurately this way you will reap, both the benefits and will be in a better position to “back pedal”

 

TIP No 2

IF ITS NOT BROKE THEN DONT FIX IT

Big n Shinny means nothing when tuning for performance, engine bling can be bad. Using Silicon to replace your hard wearing stock pipes can/will cause problems sometime in the future due to hoses popping off and the walls going soft under extreme conditions. Soft pipes tend to implode under high temp/pressure resulting in little or no flow through them. They look good and thats about it.

 

TIP 3

HEAT-HEAT-HEAT

Although Heat is a bi-product of all engines, it is also the biggest single cause of poor performance and engine failure. Without going too deep into the various possible outcomes, be sure to allow a true air path both in and out of your engine bay. Removing unwanted/un-needed components from your bay will allow more cold air to circulate. Cold air means lower oil temp thus less engine wear. The BEST SINGLE upgrade for the N/A is to remove the stock rad, plastic cowling, viscose fan, air con “complete” ect and installing a genuine 100% alloy TT KOYO rad. This process will not only dramatically reduce engine bay temp but will also save around 40Kg and will free up upto 20bhp of the crank "not the wheels". The engine will rev quicker, accelerate quicker and use less fuel due to reduced lag

 

There are literally hundreds of tweaks which you can do to the N/A without spending lots of money.

 

Remember

 

RESEARCH RESEARCH RESEARCH

 

Regards

Dave C

Good to hear from you again Dave its been a while.

ive had 150 out of my TT, thats fast enough for me! if you lose it at that speed, its game over! still had loads of revs left tho!

shit dave knows his stuff!!

Dave C, :bow: :bow: , good to see you back on here.

I do pop in from time to time...lol

 

 

U doing ok bud.

Iam always available to give free advice and share my findings. You can reach me on the mobi most of the time.

Iam always available to give free advice and share my findings. You can reach me on the mobi most of the time.

wellcome back dave :duffer:

now wheres my spanners???? :D

how many here have gone the 370 injector rout along with free flow exhaust and induction?

 

I hear what has been said and it is true that reduced back presure will reduce your low end torque slightly but if its top end speed you want then Decating and a good flow in and out of your engine will push the top end speed up. the nack is to get gains across the board.

 

Supercharger would do the trick.

Dave C, , good to see you back on here.

 

Yes its time you canme back little fella!!

 

shit dave knows his stuff!!

Indeed he does ! Especially NAs! However a few others have been learning too over the past couple of years :o

:D :D :D

how many here have gone the 370 injector rout along with free flow exhaust and induction?

 

I hear what has been said and it is true that reduced back presure will reduce your low end torque slightly but if its top end speed you want then Decating and a good flow in and out of your engine will push the top end speed up. the nack is to get gains across the board.

 

Supercharger would do the trick.

 

 

running 370s with stock cats..

You have to remember that the N/A Diff runs a different ratio than the TT so max top end will vary greatly. You could compromise acceleration for top end by simply fitting a TT diff or changing your final drive gears. Same goes for the TT owners, fitting an N/A diff would produce a fast accelerating car but will run out of revs earlier.

 

In an N/A @ 140-145 there is little or no revs left unless you lift the limiter slightly.

 

The PHNW N/A is still running strong, we have tried and tested most available parts of the shelf and have fabricated our own with both good and bad results. Our main goal has always been low end torque and acceleration and to date I have not driven a quicker N/A.

 

The biggest mistake people make when upgrading the N/A is removing/altering the very important BACK-PRESSURE. By altering and fine tuning your exhaust we have seen differences of around 30hp between the best and worst configuration. Low/Mid Torque is badly compromised also with complete free flowing systems.

We have a TT running 480@ the wheels, although it moves once the 2530s have spooled up, the LAG is horrible. After 5k then the little thing is lethal with a recorded top speed of 198mph. My point is this, side by side from a standing start the N/A is much quicker 0-50mph. Around town and everyday driving, a tuned N/A will always win hands down in both response and drivability. On the motorways it is the exact opposite.

 

You need to ask yourself what is the main purpose of your Z “Commuting, Racing, quarter mile, high speed motor way, drifting ect, each will have different setup and maps.

 

There are a few products on the market, sold to improve your N/A performance. Mixed up and installed without professional supervision the results can be little or even worse than stock, carefully choosing the correct parts together with professional precision engineering, the results can be lethal. It doesn’t have to cost the earth like most people think, good research will save you a small fortune.

 

Read some good books and look on forums for ideas.

 

TIP No 1

TAKE YOUR TIME

Refrain from changing too many parts / configurations in one go. Make changes slowly and accurately this way you will reap, both the benefits and will be in a better position to “back pedal”

 

TIP No 2

IF ITS NOT BROKE THEN DONT FIX IT

Big n Shinny means nothing when tuning for performance, engine bling can be bad. Using Silicon to replace your hard wearing stock pipes can/will cause problems sometime in the future due to hoses popping off and the walls going soft under extreme conditions. Soft pipes tend to implode under high temp/pressure resulting in little or no flow through them. They look good and thats about it.

 

TIP 3

HEAT-HEAT-HEAT

Although Heat is a bi-product of all engines, it is also the biggest single cause of poor performance and engine failure. Without going too deep into the various possible outcomes, be sure to allow a true air path both in and out of your engine bay. Removing unwanted/un-needed components from your bay will allow more cold air to circulate. Cold air means lower oil temp thus less engine wear. The BEST SINGLE upgrade for the N/A is to remove the stock rad, plastic cowling, viscose fan, air con “complete” ect and installing a genuine 100% alloy TT KOYO rad. This process will not only dramatically reduce engine bay temp but will also save around 40Kg and will free up upto 20bhp of the crank "not the wheels". The engine will rev quicker, accelerate quicker and use less fuel due to reduced lag

 

There are literally hundreds of tweaks which you can do to the N/A without spending lots of money.

 

Remember

 

RESEARCH RESEARCH RESEARCH

 

Regards

Dave C

nice to see you back dave.

talking about tuning the exhaust how can you get the best performance increasing flow from an exhaust without expensive tiral and error on type and size of pipes . have you got a best configuration set in phnw?

i was planning on trying to get your decat pipes but i have had some tail pipes custom fabricated so would need a cross over pipe too.

 

do you do the cross pipes aswell as the decats . what whould you recommend please??

 

:bow:

nice to see you back dave.

talking about tuning the exhaust how can you get the best performance increasing flow from an exhaust without expensive tiral and error on type and size of pipes . have you got a best configuration set in phnw?

i was planning on trying to get your decat pipes but i have had some tail pipes custom fabricated so would need a cross over pipe too.

 

do you do the cross pipes aswell as the decats . what whould you recommend please??

 

:bow:

 

Sorry if its long, but tried to explain it as well as I could without getting too heavy

 

 

 

 

Yea we've spent some time experimenting with all sorts of configurations. It all stems back to what you want from your car. I personally prefer low/mid torque with the VVT coming in around 6k for that extra surge. Our current configuration comprises of our own proto-type manifolds, stock cats, divorce centre section and a pair of adjustable back boxes. This way we can alter the backpressure with ease by using different diameter inserts. Its all well and good building a big bore straight through exhaust with a fancy X-pipe, but you must understand that the correct positioning of each box and or x-over pipe is critical in proportion to the distance from the exhaust valves. Fitting modified manifolds can help to even out the exhaust pulses thus allowing the exhaust gases to flow smoother and quicker cutting down on the gas tumble effect. When Nissan designed the exhaust for the Z much time was spent in maximising the exhaust gas velocity. The H pipe was fitted to even out both the differential pressure and the gas pulses between both heads. You have to remember that when new the N/A was good for around 150mph, it very rare to see that sort of performance now days with wear and tear taken into consideration.

 

N/As require velocity over flow, imagine a hose pipe with water flowing through. The smaller the pipe the faster the flow will be. Too small and you will restrict it, too big and you will not generate enough back pressure to drag the rest of water out at any modest speed. Exhaust backpressure is the art of being able to pull “scavenge” the burnt gasses from the combustion chamber at the correct velocity for the required amount of gas produced at a given RPM. It is not simply the movement of the pistons which forces gases out into the manifold, it has to be pulled also. On turbo cars, the turbo creates the backpressure by collecting and restricting the gasses from all exhaust ports, the exhaust pulses are almost even at this point. After the pulses are even and you have forced induction, a free flowing exhaust will provide good performance gains as the gasses can escape freely.

 

Like ive mentioned in the previous post's, installing shiny parts without understanding the physics behind it can have detrimental effects on performance. No two engines breath exactly the same, modified ones even more so. If you have de-cated your N/A then you may of noticed a drop in low end power and steadily increasing 4.5 to 5k upwards, this is very common indeed. As a quick fix without spending $$$ on the rollers, you could try and fit an X-Pipe but look for one which has a std 2.25 inch intake with say a 3 inch collector, this will allow the exhaust gasses to maintain the high velocity "created by the cat pipes" without causing a too much of a bottle neck. With the pulses becoming more equal, the X-pipe will provide a fair amount of much need back pressure.

 

We’ve experimented with X-pipes, Y-pipes, H-pipes many cat-pipe bore sizes and not to mention different length silencer boxes, some good results and some bad. I cannot say which configuration is best to your or anyone else’s car but can only advise.

 

Please note this applies to N/A cars only, exhaust design for turbo cars is some what different.

 

Let me know for what reasons you want to alter your system, and what results your aiming for, I will try and help as much as I can

 

Rgrds

Dave

running 370s with stock cats..

 

Hi Dave. Have you run it without cats? I have just collected my SWB NA. It is totally standard apart from a induction and it is so fooking slow. I thought it would be Quicker of the mark and run out of puff, but it is just real slow getting up to speed. It has original exhaust and just feels like it isn't breathing at all as if the cats have colapsed and restrickting it. My Ford Ranger is quicker and I'm not joking.

 

The engine sounds sweet and smooth. Not piston slap, pinking anything. It has had a new clutch resently and the box sounds noisy at low speed but not above 40mph. (think its bean fitted by a muppet and will need replacing maybe even causing performance drop through Drag)

 

I would like to get it running about 260bhp to 280bhp so I can live with it till next spring when I'll be dropping a Chevy V8 in it. Idea is That I sell my TT this summer to pay for Building work, but I couldn't live with it as it is.

 

Need to pick your brains

Mark good to chat with you today

 

As I said come down a take the car for a spin you know where to find me, it will give you an idea what is achievable within a budget. Performance and reliability is what the PHNW mobile is built around.

 

260hp is do-able, but 280 is taking things to the next level ie "internal mods, cams, porting, springs and a bit of head work" The latter would be nice to have, but would cost a bit. Reaching 260 can be done with the correct external mods and correct mapping. Remember BHP figures mean nothing, you need to aim for a smooth flat torque curve this is where the real power can be achieved. Look at some of the TT dyno graphs, most of them are terrible on the leading and trailing edge but will peak at very high readings for a short period of time only. A good N/A setup should show less spiking and more consistency throughout the rpm range

Mark good to chat with you today

 

As I said come down a take the car for a spin you know where to find me, it will give you an idea what is achievable within a budget. Performance and reliability is what the PHNW mobile is built around.

 

260hp is do-able, but 280 is taking things to the next level ie "internal mods, cams, porting, springs and a bit of head work" The latter would be nice to have, but would cost a bit. Reaching 260 can be done with the correct external mods and correct mapping. Remember BHP figures mean nothing, you need to aim for a smooth flat torque curve this is where the real power can be achieved. Look at some of the TT dyno graphs, most of them are terrible on the leading and trailing edge but will peak at very high readings for a short period of time only. A good N/A setup should show less spiking and more consistency throughout the rpm range

hi dave good to see you on here, you might remember me you dropped vindaloo all over your z at JAE a few years ago :rofl: ;)

260bhp with good torque and drivability for sensible money sounds tempting...