Hi guys

 

Just considering changing a door rather than the skin, its been bumped into by some old dear, as I'm having a lot of work done while its in, the more I can help the body shop, the better it is for me.

So I was thinking of changing the door, anyone taken off and refitted one? I'm looking for pointers to the door hinge pins and loom connections, how difficult are they etc.

Cheers

Dave

Common chaps :smash: , surely someone has?

Very easy, from memory two bolts each hinge top and bottom, unclip wiring loom from lh/rh side footwell requires the removal of plastic trim, pass wiring through door support bulkhead job done.

Dave a straight forward job really and abetter bet than a skin replacement as the frame maybe bent.

 

All of the wiring loom unplugs from inside the door after rmoving the door panel, the speaker assembly when removed gives good access to the big loom grommet, push this out of the door with the cable.

 

Rathet than driving out the hinge pins it is very easy to remove the wing and then the hinge bolts can be undone very easily, be carfeul with the weight of the oor it can catch you out if unprepared for it, also often there is sealant under the door hinges wher they meet the A post and with all the bolts removed will need a little prising to free off.

 

Once the door is removed clean the sealant off A post, applly a bed of new sealant and refit the door, make several checks for hight adjustment using two of the four bolts nipped up, once all lined up tighten all four bolts and wipe the surplus sealant from the hinge area. Pull the loom back through and plug in etc.

 

 

 

Hope that helps

 

Jeff TT

Common chaps :smash: , surely someone has?

I have'nt (but am sure I will.

If the hinge pins are ok then leave them on and unbolt the whole hinge...got to be easier...pic attached

beaten to it... :slap:

Common chaps :smash: , surely someone has?

Swapped the pass side at the w/end dude,took about an hour.

Thats an empty shell and swapping all the gubbins!-one point to note-the japs like to weld washers to the door hinges after fitting and the hinge bolts are ''shouldered'' so you get no adjustment!! :slap: -so tip is to change the original bolts for plain M8's and washers,this gives a degree of movement.

HTH,

Daz.

Thanks a lot chaps, looks like youve just saved me a lot of cash, :dance: I'll do it myself then

 

Thanks for the help, once again my membership is justified!! :cool:

have u already got a door to go on then dave? cos iv got two sitting at andys lol

Your on the ball Yaseen, yeh I was considering asking you, I should have had a look at it while I was at Duffy's the other week, I'll give him a bell and ask him what its like, but I am having a full respray, so I only want it if its dint/rust free mate, I'll contact you when I've managed to get Duffy to let me have a look.

Cheers buddy

no worries Dave, if you do get hold of him tell him to ring me! i can never get hold of the guy.

Will do Yas.

having just done this i found out 2 important things:

 

Jap doors (with seat belt on door pillar) are different to uk doors

 

some uk dooors have diferent connectors on the wiring loom to others

having just done this i found out 2 important things:

 

Jap doors (with seat belt on door pillar) are different to uk doors

 

some uk dooors have diferent connectors on the wiring loom to others

 

Cheers ian

Good point, and also mine being uk and Yaseens being imported will my door cards fit straight on and simply cover the belt mounting up?

Will have to ask around on this one, dont wanna buy a door and find I have to piss around with connectors etc to make it fit.

door cards are the same dave, b-pillars are different (jap ones have a hole in for the seat belt). if you want to relocate the seat belts to the door just take the rear quarter window interior surround from my old one (without the hole)