Hello!

 

I'm a finn living in Germany and I like to drive fast.....

 

I just bought a european model 300ZX Twin Turbo automatic yearmodel 1991 with low 99 tkm........ to tease Porsches.... BUT:

 

I have been trying to reach top speed in several occasions, but it gains max 240 km/h...usually only 220-230... (that I can do with my VW turbodiesel too...) secondly 0-100km/h times (hand timing up to 105km/h in speedometer scale) it goes in 7,6-8,0 sec...isn't that too slow too??

 

The engine sounds really excellent, idle around 850-900, no odd sounds, only injectors faint knocking, no shaking.... it sounds almoust like V8....

 

The automatic gearbox is also working well, changing the fourt speed at around 200 km/h in full gas acceration (rps around 6500)

 

There is absolutely no leaks...except little hissing sound from right exhaust manifold (or somewear near) after turning off hot engine (like some water would be poured on hot turbo kind of sound)

 

The turbo pressure goes up to around 0,58 bars and motor heat is in good range all the time (little bit below middle area at +4-10 C outside temperature)

 

Could it be possible that one cylinder would be out of order...can the engine really sound so good in that case????? In that case what would be the most likely broken part.....ignition or injector?

 

Any hints, ideas check ups would be greatly appreciated!!!

 

By the way...will 100 watt H3 lamps broke my reflector lights? The 55 w were giving as much light a a bad flash light....

Hmm....no replies so far...I wonder why??

soundsl ike you need to get a conzult check done mate and do the cylinder test if u think its that! it will also see if there is any error codes from the sensors

As for the engine, you'll have to wait for the experts on here to see this first, give it a little time.

As for the headlamps, personally I wouldn't recommend uprating the wattage, as the extra heat can caurse premature failure of the lamp within the confined space. Uprated brightness lamps are the simpliest/cheapest method first (50% brighter, etc), or maybe PIAA lamps, or even fit a set of HID ones.

Do a search on the headlamps within this forum, there is loads of information here about it.

 

HTH

Hi Mustalintu,

 

Sorry Im unable to help, being fairly new to them myself, other than to agree that performance is down on what you should be receiving (more like 5.5-6.0 secs and 270km/h - and higher with a typical over-reading speedometer).

 

Its still quite early here, Im sure somebody will be able to offer some expert advise, although it can be hard to diagnose on a forum without symptons.

 

Regards,

David

moving to help section

 

Kirbz

Have you tried the German Z32 forum ?

 

http://www.z32.de

 

there are a few experts over there also (eg. DoctorZ).

Maybe they could have a look at your car and be able to help diagnose your problems (if there are any).

 

-Eric

Hi everybody!

 

Thanks for responce! I was just by a local Nissan dealer and let the service people do the Conzult-testing...WOW...i'm impressed about all the data you could read with it.... I would say quite advanced for 1991 model car....

 

Anyhow the result was that everything was OK...not a single hint that something would be wrong.... quite strange....huh??

 

When discussing with the service mechanic it crossed my mind that the previous owner was already an senior (born 1941) that had been driving only few thousand kilometers per year in the last years (1st owner!) Might it be so that it just need to be driven longer time fast..faster...300ZX fast???

 

A real surprice was that the dealer didn't charge anything for running the test with Conzult-tester....it took anyhow some 10-15 mins.....is this common???

The turbo pressure goes up to around 0,58 bars

around 8psi

 

Sounds a little light. Could be in safety boost. An accurate guage should show around 0.68bars for stock and as much as 0.75 with an intake kit and modded exhaust.

 

Maybe you have a small boost leak - check all boost pipe hose clamps. Also a well used air filter could be so choked up it limits airflow

 

If no boost leaks or blocked filter than do the engine diagnostic test to look for system faults or a faulty detonation sensor which would also put you in safety boost.

You posted just before me - so you did a consult and it found nothing - looks like boost leaks or filter. Then next check timing is correct.

You posted just before me - so you did a consult and it found nothing - looks like boost leaks or filter. Then next check timing is correct.

I will check the filter and hoses for leaks...but I would think they are OK...the car was Service book maintenanced by Nissan until these days.

 

Wouldn't the Conzult-tester find a timing error somehow?

 

The timing belt has been changed some times ago...could it be possible that it is 1 tooth false assembled? At least four cylinder engines might also then work well, but have lack of power in high revs. Or would the Conzult-tester find this error as well somehow?

 

Or is it really so that the engine is just sooted and needs just high revs for longer time? Hmm... in that case I can really get acquainted with the pretty blond girl at the petrol station... takes 20 l/100 km and over when driven full... well maybe it could be worth it???

A Consult test only really checks the electrical sesnors. It cannot tell whether the cam timing is incorrect, nor if the ignition timing is not set correctly at the base level of 15 deg BTDC.

 

So as people said, check for boost leaks, check the air filter and check the ignition timing with a strobe light. Make sure you use good fuel and there is always a possibility that the catalysts are becomming blocked - best to remove them altogether ! ;)

I will to these checks asap....

 

If there is a boost leak wouldn't it affect to the gauge as well? from where is the turbo pressure actually measured? Are the intercoolers very vulneable or should I in first case just tighten all the 50 clamps around the engine?

 

may take some time thus... the catalyst I can't unfortunately remove...they are REALLY exact with these things here in Germany...you would NEVER pass a local MOT without them.... maybe it is the same in UK as well??

 

I use 95 octane gasoline from my local ESSO...but I could give a try for 99 octane or even for 100 octane from SHELL...does the knocking sensor accept these upgraded versions?

 

By the way....you have a fine community here!!

Standard boost is 0.62 bar if I am correct. So 0.58 is actually a little low. Its not much but could be enough to show there is a leak.

 

Start with the simplest things first. Like you said, tighten the clips around the engine.

 

Does any one know if Vijay has any boost leak detectors left?

 

The knock sensor works for any fuel you put in. The knock sensor is just a microphone and apparently you can wire it up so you can hear what it is reading. Never seen it happen but I have heard people say its possible.

 

As for the catalyst and MOT in the UK, if the car is 1992 or older, we are allowed to remove the cats as long as it passes the emissions test. 93 and younger have to have cats on by law, and the emissions test is more strict.

sounds crazy i know but is the handbrake A1...? as i have known a few people to have lack of power only to find it was the brakes sticking

you both your turbos are working one on mine seized and a van could beat me :) sorted now :hyper:

Hi everybody...I have now tighten all possible clips from turbos to intercoolers and back to the intake manifold, checking the air filter and air intakes both for intercoolers and for air filter for any blocks....clamps were tight, hoses so far I could see without cracks, filter was OK, no blocks..... I noticed also that the "air compressor part" of the both turbos were a bit oily....but is this anything serious?? The engine has never been washed!! I will do it in the near future....

 

What comes to the brake sticking I was checking that as first procedure, because the front brakes (discs and brake pads) are both brand new so I assumed that there might be somekind of sticking..... so I was letting the car to roll on neutral and I was also checking the wheels and wheel nuts for any extream heat caused by overheated brakes ...but everything was fine!

 

How does this leak detector work? Is it somekind of liquid that changes colour from leaking area or what?

 

I will check the timing and timing belt in near future.... now I have go for date with the girl from Esso ..... ;)