I'm sure I need a new clutch booster. When the engine's running I get a nice hissing sound, most audible when my head's in the driver's footwell (while stationary! :p ). The hissing often stops at some point with the clutch partially or fully depressed, and the clutch itself behaves like it's assisted to roughly the biting point, and then unassisted beyond that. Plus the idling is all over the place, which I guess is symptomatic with a vacuum leak as I've read on similar threads.

 

So I disconnected the vacuum pipe at the booster end and plugged it- no hiss, smooth idle.

 

Firstly, are there any good places to get a new/recon booster? It seems they aren't cheap. (Haven't posted a "wanted" yet, but I will).

 

Secondly, can you change it without draining the clutch hydraulics?

 

Thirdly, do you have to dismantle all the clutch, brake, engine, etc and get it out the engine bay, or do you get to it through the footwell- I can't quite work it out from the online tech manual. :slap:

 

Mark

 

PS New to the world of Zeds :dance: great website- every car should have one, but of course it wouldn't be as good because no car is as cool! :cool:

HI Mark,

 

It could be the booster tanks, which are a notorious source of leaks these are situated between the driver and the front wheel, in the arch?

 

And with the money you have saved you could become a subscribed member :dance: :dance: :dance:

LOL if it was the booster tanks then it would still leak when he plugged the booster vac line ;)

Plus the hissing was louder in the footwell than the engine bay.

 

LOL Point taken on subscriptions! I will be putting my money where my mouth is when I get a free moment... :)

I just bought one cos I wa getting exactly the same as you. New they are nearly £500 but i bought one from Z1 in the states for 150 us dollars.

Its a dash out job, there is no need to dismantle the clutch master cylinder or lose any fluid.

Paul

Its a dash out job.

Paul

 

No necessarily! I think that you will find that the best way to remove the clutch booster will be to unbolt the 2 bolts and 1 hose from the bulk head, then unscrew remove the HICAS and ASCD sensors along with the clutch pedal, and then remove the booster with bracket attached. I didn't do it this way but unless someone has proof that this will not work, I'm sure that this will be the best way.

 

The bigest problem I had was trying to remove the clutch bracket with the booster link/arm in the way because the top of the bracket hooks over a part of the dashboard wiring loom.Therfore, if you do the above, you should be able to remove it very easily. Oh yeah, and It's much easier if you also remove the drivers seat.

 

Good luck guys.

Cos it would be even easier if you came and did it for me :D:D

lol - I would love to mate but you are bloody miles away. Another piece of advice - get a universal joint for the master cylinder bolts, and a magnet. :D

Alrighty then! Cheers for the advice chaps. Probably going to be a few weeks before I progress on this, but I'll update the thread as and when. Or more likely, come crying for more help! :rolleyes:

 

Mark