I have just purchased a Black front bit, that front bit between the headlights. The bit with NISSAN or Z on it!

My Z is RED doh! Want to

a) spray it red, what undercoat colour do I use?

b)how do you get the Z badge off the front bit, without braking anything!

Arthur

NO NO NO NO NO!!!!

 

paint the car black to match the good bit!

LOL.......The badge is stuck on but also has kind of pins that do go into holes on the actual panel. Turn it over and you will see these little holes. IIRC to get mine off I used an old credit card or similar and some wd40 or petrol to start working behind the badge.

I didn't put mine back on......much prefer a plain panel!

 

(ps I posted your parcel today)

As for the undercoat (primer) any neutral colour will be ok I think. But I'm no expert.

James, how did you fill the holes?

I didn't, my bodyshop did, with filler. I have a pic of it in this stage on my pc at home. I'll post it up later.

Hi James

did you get my address about the matrix?

Thanx for the info on the badge (I like the Z better than NISSAN!) I have seen these metal pins at the back. Will get started with WD40 and scraper.

Nigel

I like black too! :D

lol james, love the parking spot :D

Hi James

did you get my address about the matrix?

 

LOL.......The badge is stuck on but also has kind of pins that do go into holes on the actual panel. Turn it over and you will see these little holes. IIRC to get mine off I used an old credit card or similar and some wd40 or petrol to start working behind the badge.

I didn't put mine back on......much prefer a plain panel!

 

(ps I posted your parcel today)

 

Clarkey......great ain't it??? LOL! And its a pedestrian only bit too!

 

Those kinda rules don't apply to a Z !! ;)

Hi James

did you get my address about the matrix?

Thanx for the info on the badge (I like the Z better than NISSAN!) I have seen these metal pins at the back. Will get started with WD40 and scraper.

Nigel

I like black too! :D

Depending on the glue used to hold the badge on you may find it easier heating the glue slighty with a hair dryer (don't hold it too close) and running some gut under the badge through the now soft glue. After that it should pop off nice and easily. Minimal damage guaranteed (unless you go gung ho with the hair dryer).

 

If you decide to ditch the badge. Filling the holes is something you can do easily yourself, if your patient and don't mind a wee bit of work, it'll save you cash not having to get the bodyshop to do it for you as well.

use red primer if you are going to spray it red ;).

How do you heat the glue when its UNDERNEATH the badge?

Hi, Just sprayed one of these myself to debadge the front.

I got a cheap one off e-bay as I prefer to keep all the standard bits. It didn't have a badge so I can't help there but I used cans from halfords to spray it even though I work in a spray shop from time to time it would cost a fortune to buy the paint and hardener for such a small panel. I wouldn't worry too much about the undercoat colour because by the time you have got a few layers of paint on it won't make any difference (although I belive white is recomended for flame red on the Z). The main thing is preperation, get a mixed pack of wet n dry paper and flat it down to a dull finish using somthing like a 400 grit, finishing off with a 1200 grit (any deep scratches seen now will show through at the end so make sure there aren't any).

spray the primer onto the panel at a distance of about 10 inches going left to right starting at the top and working your way down.

LEAVE TO DRY! even if you get runs don't worry but make sure you let the paint dry ( 10 mins if you know what you are doing 1 hour if not).

Flat down the primer with the 1200 paper using plenty of water and if you rub back to the original colour you will have to apply another coat of primer.

When you have a fully primed panel that you have rubbed down with the 1200 grit you can now spray the top coat. You will need 2-3 coats so the first coat is better quite thin. leave each coat to dry about 20 mins before the next and again don't worry if you cock it up with runs, the only real bits that will show is dust or "fish eyes"

these are round rings caused by silicone or grease on the primed panel. For example if you have primed your panel in a room in the house and the Mrs gets out the furniture polish and starts spraying it arround you will have a mess on your hands when you apply the paint. leave the panel in a warm place to dry preferebly overnight (airing cupboard is great).

If you have a crap finish don't worry, again taking the 1200 paper and loads of water rub down the panel taking out any runs or sags. Once this is done polish the panel with T cut or a cutting compound (buffing off then polishing again several times)

Eventually leaving a glass like finish.

I am currently working on the tailgate as I have removed the standard spoiler and have loads of pics if you want me to e-mail them.

Cheers

ady

TIP.................Be patient and don't panic if you cock up just let it dry and then try again.

Thanx all, for the tips feel I can get going on this now.

James, cheers for that give me address 4 p&p.

Its Fri & I am off home!

Arthur

Its on me.......have a good weekend.

Hi Arthur

 

I replaced my UK centre pannel with the j-spec one too - I also don't like the Nippon Badge. I was lucky enough to get a red one from Andy Z, though so no painting needed :D

 

If you want it to match the rest of the car then use WHITE primer. Using red or any darker primer will mean the top coat will end up darker than the rest of the car.

 

Only downside is stone chips show through more when the undercoat is white :( (If you look at any chips on the car, you will see white primer used as standard)

 

HTH

 

Richard :smw:

How do you heat the glue when its UNDERNEATH the badge?

Jeez... its not rocket science :slap:

 

Apply some heat to the badge, the miracle of convection will do all the work for you. If the panel is to be resprayed you don't have to worry about damaging the paint too much.

 

Just don't be a muppet and apply too much heat, like using a heat gun... ;)

Arthur,

 

Halfords will match the paint lovely (believe the paint code is AG2) Definately use a white primer, I used a red and it makes the paint a half shade too dark, well noticeable.

Jeez... its not rocket science :slap:

 

Apply some heat to the badge, the miracle of convection will do all the work for you.

 

No, its not rocket science - you sarcastic fooker.

 

How much do you think you would have to heat up the plastic badge for it to make any difference to the glue behind it?

 

I have taken mine off, with a plastic card.........took about 30 secs. :slap:

 

Anyway.......that pic I said I would post........

white primer for red top colour, other wise you'll end up with different shade of red, also if its the genuine nissan plastic panel, use plastic padding filler,to allow for flexing without cracking. ideally use a plasticiser additive in paint as well.

No, its not rocket science - you sarcastic fooker.

 

How much do you think you would have to heat up the plastic badge for it to make any difference to the glue behind it?

 

I have taken mine off, with a plastic card.........took about 30 secs. :slap:

 

Anyway.......that pic I said I would post........

Heh, sorry, sarcasim comes as standard when I'm pissed :x:

 

I did say in my original post that it was dependant on the type of glue used (I imagine it'll be similar, if not the same as that used on my dad's nissan). But having removed three of the badges on my own car* I find a little heat always helps, especially if there is any glue left over once the badge is off.

 

As for the primer, you should use the same colour nissan used to get as close a match as possible. White sounds about right, although it may depend on the shade of red. Syko is spot on about the plastic primer, I resprayed my debadged grille and boot handle last year and didn't use plastic primer, it lasted a couple of months before the paint started cracking... Now its got so bad I've got to do it again (with plastic primer this time). :(

 

 

*(there were four, but some kind gentleman removed the first one for me with a screwdriver)

Ok then!

Badge is off! The stuff they use is like rubber glue!

The primer as most said is white. Great! I will take the RED primer back to Halfords

Got my wet & dry sorted, will start soon.

Arthur

Nice one Arthur.........show us a pic when its all done.

 

And as someone said earlier in the thread - just be patient and take your time and it will be fine!

Jeez... its not rocket science :slap:

 

Apply some heat to the badge, the miracle of convection will do all the work for you. If the panel is to be resprayed you don't have to worry about damaging the paint too much.

 

Just don't be a muppet and apply too much heat, like using a heat gun... ;)

 

 

LOL - and whilst we're busy taking the piss it's conduction not convection ! ;)

I'd like to know if you have any probs matching the red. I had some touch up spray from Halfords but it was not a perfect match as I understand red pigments fade with age. Is there a way to compensate without being a spray meister?

If you have problems with the Halfords match then try a motor factors, there are a few in my area that have the facility to mix the paint on site and then "can it" in a spray can. These guys at this kind of place are usually pretty good at matching the colour. I think Halfords also offer this service but make sure you get someone that seems to know what they are doing, preferebly not the YTS (young thick and stupid) assistant.

Cheers

Ady