Decided to remove the headlights today........................ :(

 

What a fvkin pain in the arse that was :mad: and I've only got the drivers side one out so far.

 

So I've done a search tonight, to see if there was an easier way of removing them, without removing the front bumper and the air filter box :confused:

 

My prob is this.... On the passenger side I can get to the outer two (under the wing) and I can get to the inner front nut, but how the hell do I get to the inner rear bolt???????????????? It was enough of a pain getting to the drivers side rear inner bolt, and it took about an hour on just that one :eek:

Now I've read that someone on here used stubby spanners ( :confused: ) Does this mean I've gota saw one down??? Or what??

 

Anyway, while they are out (If I ever get the passenger one out that is ) they are getting a good internal clean, with baby wipes on a coat hanger. They are also getting 50% brighter H1 bulbs for the main beam and 30% brighter H3 bulbs, with the conversion of the permanant fixed wire FROM HERE , for the dipped beam. :)

 

Dave

Stubbies are about half the length of standard spanners. Damn handy on a zed. It is easier and quicker to remove the front bumper. however be careful of the bolts that hold the bumper to the wingsas they have a tendency to shear.

 

cheerz, mickey

Dave,

 

When I did mine I had the car up on axle stands (to do the disks) I took the indicators out and removed the front splash guard and part removed the wheel arch liner. Much much easier then! Think I may have slightly loosened the front bumper just to get anough space to lift the lights out too.

 

There is a 'how to' somwhere that shows the location of the nuts/bolts somewhere...

 

Dave

had mine out the same way, indicators, nose panel and front half of the wheel arch, does the trick, and I dont own any stubby spanners, but do own a set of box spanners

Hi Dave,

Just going through the threads and noticed your solution to the Jap import bulbs. Ive only had my Z 6 months and would like brighter light without having to buy HID etc.. Could you explain a little more on what and where i put the wire in instalation,also what bulbs are ok to use because all the bases are different.Hope you dont mind me asking but do you know where i can get hold of front fog bulbs??

 

thanks so much "jonce"

Front bumper will take you all of 30 mins to take off. Saves so much time and hassle in the long run.

Right guys, here is an update,

 

Have just finished the whole job this afternoon ( Bloody weather :mad: ).

 

To gain access to the air box bolts, I would have thought it would have been very difficult NOT to have taken off the bumper. But at least now I know how to take off the bumper and the positions of all the screws and nuts. My solution to gaining access to the rear inner bolts was to take out the air-con fan unit and I could even fit in a socket wrench :dance: , job done. In the long run I may have taken out more than was necessary, but its experience in taking the Z apart for the future. :cool:

 

Wont know how good the lights are until it gets dark and I take it out onto the road at night again.

 

For anyone attempting to do the job, who isn’t used to it, don’t bother with the coat hanger trick, it isn’t worth it. Get an hair dryer and separate the lens from the body, only takes about 20 mins at the most, and the result is far better, also leave the grey old sealant in place, and apply a thin bead of clear silicon sealant as well. Then warm it up again and fasten it back together. Job done.

 

jonce, firstly that mod is not my idea, praise goes out to all the others involved in that one :bow: . Position wise, I put mine under the screw on the side that the bulb holder clips into, but position it so that you can still open/close the clip. Then just run the new one and the bulb wire through the hole in the rubber gator, and into the connector.

 

Bulbs

Dipped Beam – H3--- With mod.

Main Beam – H1 --- No mod required.

Fog light – H3 --- You may have to mod the ‘Bullet’ type connector, as UK type H3 bulbs come with a ‘Spade’ connector. Also the Jap ‘Bullet’ is smaller than a normal type. It’s a simple mod, just crimp on a new one.

 

I’ve read that upping the wattage of your bulbs in these cars shortens the life expectancy of them due to heat problems. So I simply went for 30% and 50% brighter bulbs, still at 55w. I would have gone for 50% all round, but they didn’t have any in H3, so settled for 30%.

 

Hope that answers your question.

 

Dave

hi dave,

Jonce here, just wondering if you tryed your new lights out and if your mission was sucessful?? Thinking of avin' a go myself if you think it was worth it...

cheers johno

hi dave,

Jonce here, just wondering if you tryed your new lights out and if your mission was sucessful?? Thinking of avin' a go myself if you think it was worth it...

cheers johno

 

 

Here you go m8,

 

YES it was very succesfull :cool: went to work in it today especially to test the lights on the way home (any excuse to drive the Z really :D). Dipped beam was improved treamendusly and even the full beam was improved a lot. But I think i'd better get the aim checked out.

 

Just to add to the mod for the H3 bulbs, DONT use normal wire for the additional new earth!! Nip into your local domestic appliance repair shop and buy a short length of internal heat resistant single cooker wire. This is for heat reasons next to the bulb holder.

 

HTH

 

Dave