I was looking at the JWT 500 Sport turbos. As far as I know they are the stock ones which have had the internals improved. Am I right?

 

Anyway these where going to cost me over a grand for the turbos, which is acceptable but not exactly cheap.

 

However!

 

I have been given a phone number of some one in the UK who rebuilds turbos. I phoned him and he knows what he is talking about. He knew what turbos where on a 300ZX anyway and said that I would need new oil feeder lines.

 

Anyway, to rebuild my turbos with 360 Degree BB, Air Cooled and Step Gaps (Or could be Stop Gaps) works out to be £400 cheaper than the JWT and that is before I add any tax and shipping of my turbos back and new turbos here onto the price too.

Plus JWT 500 are not BB are they?

 

This guy seemed to know his stuff and didnt sound like he was trying to con me. He basically explained that there is little he can do to the turbos just make them really strong with the strongest parts he can get.

 

I have seen some sites say they ground out the housing to make it take a larger wheel. I dont like the sound of that.

 

What do you guys thing? By the sounds of it this guy does the same thing that JWT does to the 500Sport. Just makes them very strong, and for that much cheaper should I give him a try?

 

He has come very very highly recommended by people who race cars so I believe he is capable.

 

What are your thoughs on this? Would you go with him?

 

Stuart

I had Turbo Technics hybrids fitted a few years back. Does anyone know if these are any good?

Originally posted by scoops

yeah and look what technology has done for the 350z when the 300 dinosaur still beats it!!:rolleyes:

 

In a straight line, the 350Z is significantly quicker round a track.

Originally posted by John Dixon

In a straight line, the 350Z is significantly quicker round a track.

 

We'll test that theory at the track day :D

 

Anyway back to turbo's

Have you decided yet Stu ?

Originally posted by John Dixon

In a straight line, the 350Z is significantly quicker round a track.

 

milk floats are probably quicker around a track!

HI Stu,

 

why not wait for the rolling road day - there is bound to be different turbos there and you can see what difference it makes -

 

Regards,

 

alex

Hi guys.

 

Yeah I am going to go with the ones from this place in the Midlands, which will basically build my ones up to the max. It works out to be half the price as other turbos, and for that money I can change my mind a year or 2 later and it not be a big deal. I dont want to spend £2000 on turbos and end up hating them.

 

I wanted to make my car as drivable as possible with reduced lag and such. The stock turbos are good at that and the BB on the rebuild and one or two other things he said, would make them spool up a little faster and do the higher boost with no problem.

 

I will have to tell you what they are like when they are put on the car. When the engine is worn in I plan to take it to a rolling road to see the results.

 

 

Stuart

Has anyone got 600ish BHP and proof of it. ie rolling road.

 

If so what have you done to acheive this.

 

I would like to build my engine to be able to deal with this kind of BHP so I could run her at around 500 BHP with reliability.

 

Everybody says something different and I don't want to spend money and not get the result I'm looking for. Most people I've spoken to say that the first thing to do is strengthen the top end. Then improve Oil & water rads, Intercoolers, Indution and Exhaust. Before moving on to Turbos and Jetting. (I have a friend who works for Borg warner building turbo's. He can build me a set of turbos to what ever spec I want he can also do the same for the torc converter, but I don't know what specs to tell him???)

 

? If I have fuel and Turbo mapping devices do I need to upgrade the ECU and why. Also how much BHP can a standard Auto box and torc converter take.

 

Help!!! I want a shopping list that makes sense so I can save and just get it done, but I don't have endless pockets. If anyone out there has the technical spec for Turbos and Torc converters discussed let me have em.

 

Then whats the best suspension upgrades. I want to be faster than a 350Z around the track. Not just in a sraight line:D :D

493whp,550engine is a friends of mine but i can tell u a lot of thinks about it

First there is no proof that the 350Z is faster round the track. A lot of it will be down to driving skill.

 

You say you want 500bhp. At what? The wheel or flywheel? If it is at the wheel you had better have plenty of cash and dont expect the car to as reliable as it is now.

 

Are you going to do the work yourself? If not you are better taking the car to a specialist and say you want 500bhp.

 

If you are going to do the work yourself you will really need.

 

Exhaust,

ECU Upgrade,

Boost Controller,

Dual Intake,

2 Air filters,

555cc Injectors,

Uprated Turbos. (JWT 500 produce about 480bhp on a good setup. JWT 530 should produce 500 @ the fly)

Sports Cams,

Valve Springs,

Forged Pistons,

New bearings,

 

And then you will need gaskets while, and you should replace some hard to get at water hoses too as well as a few sensors on there too.

 

If you want the engine to as reliable as poss, you should get stronger conrods.

 

That should get you 500bhp.

 

Stuart

Originally posted by SRRAE

First there is no proof that the 350Z is faster round the track. A lot of it will be down to driving skill.

 

I'm talking about my skill level against my skill level. I know I aint going to get Elise quality handling, but I just want something a bit more possitive and less roll without being spine jarring.:eek:

Do you have a UK or Jap spec?

 

Jap have soft suspention, the UK is very good I think.

Originally posted by markzx

Originally posted by SRRAE

First there is no proof that the 350Z is faster round the track. A lot of it will be down to driving skill.

 

I'm talking about my skill level against my skill level. I know I aint going to get Elise quality handling, but I just want something a bit more possitive and less roll without being spine jarring.:eek:

 

Anti-roll bars are apparently the way forward if you want to get of roll

strut braces do a lot too

Originally posted by SRRAE

Do you have a UK or Jap spec?

Jap have soft suspention, the UK is very good I think.

 

UK spec

First there is no proof that the 350Z is faster round the track. A lot of it will be down to driving skill.

 

You say you want 500bhp. At what? The wheel or flywheel? If it is at the wheel you had better have plenty of cash and dont expect the car to as reliable as it is now.

 

Are you going to do the work yourself? If not you are better taking the car to a specialist and say you want 500bhp.

 

If you are going to do the work yourself you will really need.

 

Exhaust,

ECU Upgrade,

Boost Controller,

Dual Intake,

2 Air filters,

555cc Injectors,

Uprated Turbos. (JWT 500 produce about 480bhp on a good setup. JWT 530 should produce 500 @ the fly)

Sports Cams,

Valve Springs,

Forged Pistons,

New bearings,

 

And then you will need gaskets while, and you should replace some hard to get at water hoses too as well as a few sensors on there too.

 

If you want the engine to as reliable as poss, you should get stronger conrods.

 

That should get you 500bhp.

 

Stuart

 

If Tiff needel says the 350 is virtualy as good as the new 911 round the track, I think it is a done deal!

 

You may need forged pistons, up to you, if you have £500 spare I would get them!

 

 

You don't need stronger con rods or sport cams or springs!

 

And I think on any engine rebuild you would sling in new bearings and gaskets!

 

Don't worry about sport 500 turbos, waste of space, it is either 530's or pe1420's!

I've dicided to go with td-0516g anyone have a personal expierince or has them on his car?

You may need forged pistons, up to you, if you have £500 spare I would get them! You don't need stronger con rods or sport cams or springs! And I think on any engine rebuild you would sling in new bearings and gaskets! Don't worry about sport 500 turbos, waste of space, it is either 530's or pe1420's!

 

Cheers Mate

 

I've never rebuilt an Engine without have the crank polished and new bearings. The 530's are these a reworked originals or an off the shelf replacement.

 

To answer a few questions. Yes I'll do it myself, I'm talking at the Crank.

 

The main Question I'm asking is this. These cars have been about a long time and surely there are tried and tested set ups that give quantifiable returns.

The main Question I'm asking is this. These cars have been about a long time and surely there are tried and tested set ups that give quantifiable returns.

 

When you a getting to those levels of BHP, it has a lot of variables but if I had unlimited funds, I would want to have as much BHP without losing much of easy driveability of the Zed!

 

This would be my choice of engine rebuild!

 

Cleared out water channels in block!

Remove Aiv, egr and PRVR systems!

Pe1420's

555 injectors

Gas flowed and ported head, three angle valve job, manifolds and lower manifold

John Dixon Chip

Ash's Dualz intake with Apexi filters

HKS exhaust

Greg Dupree split downpipes

 

With that setup you should have 480ish RWHP, with virtually stock lag!

 

 

Nice extras would be:

 

Z1 wiseco pistons

Z1 motorsport Radiator

Upgraded Rad cap

Traction Control

HID lights

R33 Vspec Brakes, with ferodo pads

Suspension Techniques Sway bars

Short Shifter

RPS top of the range clutch and flywheel

U should go for an engine management not for a chip, also u should work on your intake extrude honing it would be a good idea. Even if u put td-0516g dont think that the lag your going to have is much different but the power will be much more.

I don't have limitless funds because my wife thinks all I earn is hers.

 

Seriously though 360+RWHP would do me. (until I had 360RWHP )

I really don't want to loose the driver friendliness of the car.

 

I have tuned motorbikes in the past and got some awesome bhp, but flat spots and power spikes that felt like falling of a cliff or hitting a brick wall. O.K. if your on a track and keepimg it cooking in the power band, but this is my every day ride (apart from winter)

 

Everyone tells me that the top end of the Z is its week spot so because I want reliability

I thought I'd upgrade the pistons (who's are the best and cost effective?)

Upgrade the Turbos (ie hybreadise? :confused: )

Jets (555 or 600 injectors ? even been suggested to me to go as high as 1000s )

Do I need to upgrade the ECU if I have Fuel and Turbo mapping devices? (what bennefit would I get?)

Better Rad

Better intercoolers got some on order

+ general engine bay tide ie hard pipes and shiny bits.

 

Any advice keep it coming Please

 

Also I'm looking for any feed back on good suspension upgrade coil covers etc and general handling improvement tips (tryed and tested stuff please)

U should go for an engine management not for a chip, also u should work on your intake extrude honing it would be a good idea. Even if u put td-0516g dont think that the lag your going to have is much different but the power will be much more.

 

 

Why should he go for engine management and not a chip, sure you have the flexibility. The only engine management system I would go for is Ash's Zemulator, but that is still too developemental at this point in time!

 

You are talking about extude honing the plenum, very costly, and I think I might have heard there is not that much bhp to be gained from it.

 

You get posistive boost from tdo5-16g at 2900rpm, where as the pe1420's you get it 2600 rpm!

 

Here is some useful turbo information.

 

http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=839668

TBH, I wouldn't run the Zemulator permanantly, just for set up.

I've made essentially the same thing using the same hardware (Xtronics Romulator) and Excel, but xtronics recommend that the romulaor not be installed full time. I've used it for mapping, but the hardware reset seems a bit iffy sometimes - perhaps I've just got a knackered one.

A guy in the states is developing a conversion from Eprom to a dallas PVRam chip which will enable real time mapping through the consult port using a new routine embedded in the CPU code. Much better and reliable solution IMO.

TD05-16Gs are brilliant little turbos, though you may find them (comparitively) laggy on the Zed. You'd get better spool charectaristics from TD04s, although you'd be getting close to their upper performance limit at 600rwhp.

 

ECU wise, purely in terms of features, I'd be tempted to chuck the existing stuff in the bin and go for an Autronics, Link or Motec system with boost control, active knock correction and a few other toys thrown in.

I don't have limitless funds because my wife thinks all I earn is hers.

 

Seriously though 360+RWHP would do me. (until I had 360RWHP )

I really don't want to loose the driver friendliness of the car.

 

I have tuned motorbikes in the past and got some awesome bhp, but flat spots and power spikes that felt like falling of a cliff or hitting a brick wall. O.K. if your on a track and keepimg it cooking in the power band, but this is my every day ride (apart from winter)

 

Everyone tells me that the top end of the Z is its week spot so because I want reliability

I thought I'd upgrade the pistons (who's are the best and cost effective?)

Upgrade the Turbos (ie hybreadise? :confused: )

Jets (555 or 600 injectors ? even been suggested to me to go as high as 1000s )

Do I need to upgrade the ECU if I have Fuel and Turbo mapping devices? (what bennefit would I get?)

Better Rad

Better intercoolers got some on order

+ general engine bay tide ie hard pipes and shiny bits.

 

Any advice keep it coming Please

 

Also I'm looking for any feed back on good suspension upgrade coil covers etc and general handling improvement tips (tryed and tested stuff please)

 

360 rwhp is a sort of no mans land!

 

400-410BHP is about 350ish at the wheels and this is difficult to achieve with stock turbos and injectors etc, probably about 370-380 at the crank is achieveable with the stock turbos etc.

 

If you want above that figure it will probably cost you about £3K for parts!

And you might as well go for 500BHP as this will cost the same!

360 rwhp is a sort of no mans land!

 

400-410BHP is about 350ish at the wheels and this is difficult to achieve with stock turbos and injectors etc, probably about 370-380 at the crank is achieveable with the stock turbos etc.

 

If you want above that figure it will probably cost you about £3K for parts!

And you might as well go for 500BHP as this will cost the same!

 

Sorry just shows I don't know my terminology. I thought RWHP was at the wheels :o