hate winter weather

my heating system is crap

why?

is it a z thing or can it be fixed

hardly warm and even then it only decides to blow after about 3 miles up road

first mornin of frost like driving around in a freezer

apart from air in the heater matrix or blocked

is there anything else that could be adjusted

also it only blows out the middle vents when at about 25 degrees readout, put it up to 40 and it all goes to windscreen eh

heater aint too bad at all, it does take a while before it starts blowing though, but I guess thats cos the system figures blowing cold air wont do anything to increase cabin temp, so waits till the vent air is hot before blowing.

Might have a duff engine thermostat - this'll mean the engine never fully warms up and so you'll never get a decent heat out of it.

 

You tend to spot this as winter sets in and the car runs ever colder.

You've more than likely got 1 or more faulty sensors, these feed back temperature info to the air con and if faulty it will freeze or boil you!!

 

You need to do a self diagnostic on the unit and it will actually tell you exactly what is wrong with it, fantastic system, I did one and found I had a sensor missing!!! and another shorted out!! sorted these and its now perfect!!

 

Look up online manual, auto air-conditioner fault finding, it runs to about 100+ pages I'm afraid and you'll need a couple of hours to study how to do it!! (well I did maybe I'm dumb!) but once you know how, its a fab. self test within the unit.

 

Paul N

Originally posted by kmh24261

hardly warm and even then it only decides to blow after about 3 miles up road

That's a feature, not a bug - tt won't blow air from the matrix into the cabin until the matrix is warm, which in turn means the engine is warm.

 

For two reasons:

a) there's no point, won't warm the cabin

b) if the heat is going into the cabin it's not going into the engine and it'll take forever to warm up. I'd rather my engine oil got up to temperature before I did - new jumper a tenner, new pistons a grand!

 

Worst thing I've noticed is the brakes and shocks are bloody terrible 'til they're up to temperature.

 

Me TDI is even worse, those super efficient engines don't put out waste heat driving through town at all... don't get even an effective demist until I hit the motorway, most mornings.

 

Might be worth a radiator bleed though, just to check, and like the man says the A/C system can tell you if anything's properly broken.

Hi

My Z heater takes forever to warm up. I have taken off the top matrix hose and poured water into the matrix, with the radiator cap off you can see if the water is flowing as it will come up out of the rad. I visited jeff recently and he did a conzult test that showed no faults on the aircon system. We both agreed that the next stage is to change the thermostat. The temp gauge is below the 9 o'clock position when up to temp were as it should sit arround the 9 position. If the termostat is stuck slightly open this would be the cause, I have got to get one from nissan (about £12) and fit as soon as I get chance. I will let you know if this cures the fault.

 

cheers

 

Ady

On Monday, the first cold day this year, and my first cold day with my zed, I noticed that the warm air does not come out of the vents above the radio, only down by your feet and out of the small vent near the pillar. Although the blower was on full speed, the hot air near your feet was not blasting out.

My thermostat was changed this summer.

 

Thanks

 

 

John

MINES THE SAME HEAT OUT OF TOP VENTS AND FOOT WELLS BUT SHE GETS WARM FAST BUT ALL THE OTHER VENTS THERES NOTHING COMING OUT AT ALL??

OK, First off when you have it on the de-mist setting air will bast out on the screen only, if you set it to say 30 with a cold engine it will blast cold air at it until the engine has enough heat to blast warm air at it.

 

On Seris 1 models you CANNOT direct heat around the cabin on demand, you have to press the "auto" button and the sensors in the car should do the work for you. If the footwell is cold it will direct most of the heat there until the desired heat is achieved, after this it will direct some out of the vents above the radio, and so on.

 

On a seris 2 you can direct the heat around the cabin as desired.

 

On the topic of thermostats, I changed mine in summer, my car now warms up much quicker, as i believe the old stat was not only slow to open and close, i think it probably stayed open a little too when cold, therefor letting some water flow around the heating system and thus slowing the warming up time.

 

Since I did my water pump change im dead chuffed with mine, it heats up quick, blowers do as they should, it loses no water and doesnt overheat.

 

Think ive probably just cursed myself saying that!!! :rolleyes:

CHEERS FOR THAT .

I MUST HAVE A SEIRES 1 AS I HAVE THE AUTO BUTTON.

HAVE ONLY HAD THE CAR 2 WEEKS THE LONGEST RUN IVE BEEN IN IT IS 10 MILES SO THATS WHY. IVE BEEN TOLD ITS PRESET BUY A MATE WITH A GTO AS HIS DOES THE SAME AS MINE

B19RKS,

You can send air around the cabin through any vents you want at several different blower speeds, you just need to know the secret....he..he..;)

 

You need to know the diagnostics procedure off by heart though!!

 

Paul

Before I had my sts done, It would take about 25 mins before the car would achieve even 24 degrees. I also found that if I had the temp at around 30 on High, it would actually become colder.

 

However, after stat was done, my heaters come on after 1 and a half miles when set at 28/normal. Although, I'm pretty sure that changing the matrix would improve this time, but at the mo, I'm quite happy with it.