Fitted my JWT dual POP on Saturday, bit of a tight squeeze but not too bad, however I did have a couple of issues......

 

1. After removing my AFM from the T piece, I discovered the mesh on the back was in bits and had most probably been shooting metal filaments at my turbo's for at least a couple of thousand miles......

 

2. Upon fitting the 555/dual pop chip my car now detts at about 8psi...........needless to say I'm somewhat unimpressed by this - any suggestions??:confused:

Hi Steve,

 

The new turbos running very well, ta! It's vastly differnent from the specification of the HKS2540s, they never even get slightly over heated, detination isn't even feasable now. And the Quad intake system definately gives better cooling. The new back end defenately holds a lot more than anyone else's 300 ever could, even with full power it's never spun the wheels.

 

:D

8psi is 8psi whether it comes out of a T1 or a T70R HKS Roller Bearing monster. 8 psi is also higher than 6 psi stock boost without the solenoids but lower than the 9.5psi standard boost with them connected ! Detonation should not be an issue here, he even has uprated intercoolers to lower the induction temperature.

 

I would go with retarded ignition due to an fault with the det. sensor, whether intermittent or not, or a lean air/fuel ratio caused by any number of things. i.e. fuuel pump voltage, wrong code for dual maf or not setup correctly in the s-afc for dual maf.

 

Olly.

Originally posted by olly300zx

8psi is 8psi whether it comes out of a T1 or a T70R HKS Roller Bearing monster.

 

Ok try this at home....

 

Apply 8psi pressure through a .25" tube and feel how much air comes out the other end!

 

Then

 

Apply 8psi pressure using a 2.5" tube and see how much air comes out the other end!

 

So 8psi is 8psi but there is a big difference on air flow depending on what type/size of turbo produces this.

 

Steve E

OK then, but he hasn't changed any pipe sizes AFAIK so the pressure remains the same and the engine sees 8PSI. In fact with hybrid turbos, they normally lower the inlet temperature slightly at the same pressure as a smaller/normal turbocharger as they are not working as hard !

 

If you had a straw and put 8psi through it using a 1.5hp compressor and then used a 2 hp compressor pushing 8psi through it it would be exactly the same !, but the 2hp compressor would be able to push that 8psi for longer and wouldn't push the compressor to work as hard !

 

Olly.

The point here is that a T28 will flow more air at 8psi than a stock T25 becuase it doesn't have to work so hard and therefore a cooler / denser volume of air arrives at the cylinder.

 

The means more fuel, more power and more heat although I have to agree that it's still shouldn't cause det at that level.

 

Were on the same side of the fence when it comes to retarded ignition combined with lean air fuel ratio!

 

;)

 

Steve

I thought we was all on the same side of the fence, to help Adam with his prob.

 

:)

 

Olly.

Originally posted by olly300zx

I thought we was all on the same side of the fence, to help Adam with his prob :)Olly.

 

Nothing wrong with a few 'fight club' threads in the interim while Adam illiminates each idea thrown at him :D

 

Anyone else for a :slap:

 

Steve E

Jez,

what are you driving now since you flogged your Z to TinkyWinky?

Fully agree, my Zeds better than yours :p

 

Olly.

Dave.... I'll expand on that then...

 

The new turbos running very well, ta! It's vastly differnent from the specification of the HKS2540s (vasty smaller), they never even get slightly over heated (beacuse they're so under powered), detination isn't even feasable now. And the Quad intake system (4 electric windows) definately gives better cooling. The new back end defenately holds a lot more than anyone else's 300 ever could (big estate boot), even with full power it's never spun the wheels (cuz of the lack of power).

 

Sorry to dissapoint you, it's a vw estate car. :rofl:

LOL Jez - there was me thinking you'd got something really rapid :rofl:

I think hugely advanced ignition timing (26 degrees...) may have had something to do with it.....:eek: :eek: :rolleyes:

LMFAO wtf!!!! Steve, shove yer heated exhaust valves up yer ar$e :D:D:D ;)

Still get off boost detting though.... say I'm doing 1800 - 2000rpm in 5th - if I floor it I get det until the boost builds up at around 3 - 3.5k......

n/m

I aint replying to the rest

 

Originally posted by Steve E

So... take your workshop manual and what you think you know and shove it up your own ar$e you 'know nothing' whipper snapper!!

 

cheers :(

Originally posted by Steve E

So... take your workshop manual and what you think you know and shove it up your own ar$e you 'know nothing' whipper snapper!!

:eek: :slap:

Fook me.......I've created a monster:eek: :eek: :eek:

Originally posted by Steve E

no no dufftwat!.....lmfao

 

Originally posted by andyduff

 

No, seriously, Adam, what plugs are you running?

 

So plugs will cause det at 8psi will they!!

 

Originally posted by andyduff

 

Have you checked the fuel pump voltage at WOT? Should be 12v - its a dual voltage system which is controlled by the fuel pump controller (funnily enough :D). Sometimes the FPC goes faulty and doesn't give the extra voltage for the extra demand.

 

I don't recall Adam mentioning WOT; if there was a fuel supply problem there would be other symptoms.

 

Originally posted by andyduff

 

If you had forgotten the MAS connector then the engine would only rev to 3k. That rules that out. However, I would try swapping the MAS for a known good one just to rule that out.

 

So your also talking about ruling things out!!! What a cr@p suggestion!

 

Originally posted by andyduff

 

Remove the S-AFC from the system completely. Get all the complicated sh!t outta there!

 

Mmm! another great suggestion to solve detonation!

 

Originally posted by andyduff

 

Det sensor circuit - NO WAY!!! this is ONLY to retard the ignition and lower the boost when detonation STARTS, NO WAY can it cause det ;)

 

Just like changing the MAS because it could cause det eh dufftwat!

 

So... take your workshop manual and what you think you know and shove it up your own ar$e you 'know nothing' whipper snapper!!

 

Bit Harsh Steve :confused:

Originally posted by Steve E

no no dufftwat!.....lmfao

 

Originally posted by andyduff

 

No, seriously, Adam, what plugs are you running?

 

So plugs will cause det at 8psi will they!!

 

Ok try fitting nice warm plugs to your car and watch what happens.

 

Originally posted by andyduff

 

Have you checked the fuel pump voltage at WOT? Should be 12v - its a dual voltage system which is controlled by the fuel pump controller (funnily enough :D). Sometimes the FPC goes faulty and doesn't give the extra voltage for the extra demand.

 

I don't recall Adam mentioning WOT; if there was a fuel supply problem there would be other symptoms.

 

LOL Not so fast little puppy. The fuel pump is a TWIN VOLTAGE system. On high throttle it steps up the voltage to 12v to provide for the extra fuel demand. READ WHAT I WROTE

 

Originally posted by andyduff

 

If you had forgotten the MAS connector then the engine would only rev to 3k. That rules that out. However, I would try swapping the MAS for a known good one just to rule that out.

 

So your also talking about ruling things out!!! What a cr@p suggestion!

 

Ok it was asked if the MAS had been connected - if the car revs >3k then it must be connected. If we don't rule things out then HOW WILL WE FIND THE SOLUTION?

 

Originally posted by andyduff

 

Remove the S-AFC from the system completely. Get all the complicated sh!t outta there!

 

Mmm! another great suggestion to solve detonation!

 

 

Yeah I thought so too! Det could well be caused by fueling and the SAFC alters the fueling (and timing) so....

 

Originally posted by andyduff

 

Det sensor circuit - NO WAY!!! this is ONLY to retard the ignition and lower the boost when detonation STARTS, NO WAY can it cause det ;)

 

Just like changing the MAS because it could cause det eh dufftwat!

 

LOL WTF are you on about? MAS effects fueling (and timing) so yeah it COULD cause det. I suppose a faulty abs sensor causes your brakes to jam on does it? :rolleyes:

 

So... take your workshop manual and what you think you know and shove it up your own ar$e you 'know nothing' whipper snapper!!

 

Keep taking your car to the garage - if you apply what you said above your own car then you'll be forking out big bills for repairs :p

ok...lets stop this here and now! A bit harsh I agree!!

 

This is supposed to be a help anf advice forum, not a forum where sugested ideas get slated by other members!

 

I can take the funny side of a bit of forum 'fight club' up to where it was left but for Duffman to keep at it with the

 

"LMFAO wtf!!!! Steve, shove yer heated exhaust valves up yer ar$e" comment, just takes it too far. Maybe I've taken it the wrong way?

 

It sounds like I have so no offence meant here Duffman & I take it back.

 

Everyone know your a "know it all" anyway :p

 

Steve :(

 

Thread Closed!!

Gis a kiss luv :D Comment re exhaust valves WAS a joke but can see how it was taken the wrong way ;)