you'd need to upgrade the internals of the engine, i.e. con rods, pistons etc??

As a rough guide line, you can get away with 14psi safely on stock everything.

Then you're looking about 15 - 17psi with uprated intercoolers.

Then anything after will start getting you into injectors/ new turbo's and uprated engine parts.

The VG30DE(TT ) is a very strong engine when treated right.

There have been a few (recent) reports of TT's running over 720RWHP on stock internals.

And there have been even more reports of TT's running over 500 RWHP on stock internals.

 

I'm running 380RWHP on a stock VG30DE (NA engine) for over 6 months now and it still runs great.

 

Personally I wouldn't upgrade the internals, unless you're aiming for extreme powerfigures of over 700RWHP

 

-Eric

Well, I'm aiming for ~600rwhp and I aint doing anything to the internals. As long as fueling and timing are correct you shouldn't have any problems. As Eric said, the VG30 is an incredibly strong engine...

 

CheerZ,

 

Andy

They are joining this BB soon;)

Same goes for you Duff!

Is this a wind up?

 

rwhp Is that rear wheel horsepower?

 

Does that mean + 40 to 60 to get flywheel horsepower assuming transmission losses?

 

Quote

 

I'm running 380RWHP on a stock VG30DE (NA engine) for over 6 months now and it still runs great.

 

by Eric

 

Does that mean 420 -450 BHP out of an NA engine without blowers. Forgive me if I find it hard to understand but how do you get from 220ish bhp flywheel of a stock NA to 420bhp? Even NOS wont do that.

 

Kinda makes Pagani Zondas look like woosemobiles if you can get anything like 600 RWHP!

 

I thought an honest TT with SE or JWT chip, 14psi boost, exhaust and intake might do about 360-380 flywheel bhp maybe 340rwhp.

 

I know Stillen claim 400bhp with that spec but I thought maybe the difference between DIN honestish BHP and SAE American BHP

 

Cmon then lets hear it from the power gurus :)

Originally posted by WillieO

Is this a wind up?

 

rwhp Is that rear wheel horsepower?

 

Does that mean + 40 to 60 to get flywheel horsepower assuming transmission losses?

 

Quote

 

I'm running 380RWHP on a stock VG30DE (NA engine) for over 6 months now and it still runs great.

 

by Eric

 

Does that mean 420 -450 BHP out of an NA engine without blowers. Forgive me if I find it hard to understand but how do you get from 220ish bhp flywheel of a stock NA to 420bhp? Even NOS wont do that.

 

Kinda makes Pagani Zondas look like woosemobiles if you can get anything like 600 RWHP!

 

I thought an honest TT with SE or JWT chip, 14psi boost, exhaust and intake might do about 360-380 flywheel bhp maybe 340rwhp.

 

I know Stillen claim 400bhp with that spec but I thought maybe the difference between DIN honestish BHP and SAE American BHP

 

Cmon then lets hear it from the power gurus :)

 

LOL I think Eric has put some hairdriers on that NA ;) Ok so I didn't mention I have bigger blowers - but thats not what the question was :D The more air you get in the engine, the more fuel you can get in there, so more power out. Stock turbos lose efficiency very early on so bigger blowers will see nice high BHP figures quite easily - chose them well and no extra lag. In fact, I'm seeing positive boost at 1300rpm so I'm happy :D

 

CheerZ,

 

Andy

Originally posted by andyduff

Same goes for you Duff!

 

I must see the doctor about talking to myself..... although sometimes thats the only way I get any sense... :D

:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Originally posted by smw1

As a rough guide line, you can get away with 14psi safely on stock everything.

Then you're looking about 15 - 17psi with uprated intercoolers.

Then anything after will start getting you into injectors/ new turbo's and uprated engine parts.

 

I thought injectors maxed out at 15psi :confused:

Originally posted by lymon

The VG30DE(TT ) is a very strong engine when treated right.

There have been a few (recent) reports of TT's running over 720RWHP on stock internals.

And there have been even more reports of TT's running over 500 RWHP on stock internals.

 

I'm running 380RWHP on a stock VG30DE (NA engine) for over 6 months now and it still runs great.

 

Personally I wouldn't upgrade the internals, unless you're aiming for extreme powerfigures of over 700RWHP

 

-Eric

 

this was answer i was after really.

cuz i know my ca18det's internals will handle 300 bhp and can take upto 330bhp (@ fly this is) but is not recommended and after that u'll start needing strengthen con rods and forged pistons etc etc.

 

cuz im gunna stop when i hit 300 @ fly on my 2hundy gunna keep it @ that for a year or 2 then buy a Zed TT and was going to aim for 500-600 @ the fly.

 

so without changing internals i can do this to my CA18det : bigger tubby @ more boost, bigger FMIC, zorst, injectors, AFM, Fuel pump, INduction & chip to suit.

 

so for the Zed what wud the equivilent mods be?

Originally posted by Vipers

this was answer i was after really.

cuz i know my ca18det's internals will handle 300 bhp and can take upto 330bhp (@ fly this is) but is not recommended and after that u'll start needing strengthen con rods and forged pistons etc etc.

 

cuz im gunna stop when i hit 300 @ fly on my 2hundy gunna keep it @ that for a year or 2 then buy a Zed TT and was going to aim for 500-600 @ the fly.

 

so without changing internals i can do this to my CA18det : bigger tubby @ more boost, bigger FMIC, zorst, injectors, AFM, Fuel pump, INduction & chip to suit.

 

so for the Zed what wud the equivilent mods be?

 

Not quite sure what you're trying to say. The CA18 is a different kettle of fish - it won't take much more than 300BHP (@flywheel) without uprating the internals as they are no where near as strong as the VG30 items.

 

For 500-600BHP you will be looking at the following for a Z32:-

 

Exhaust (inc decat)

Dual intake

Uprated ECU - for 500-600BHP it will need to be custom mapped

Bigger tubs - go for roller bearing if you can afford it

Uprated ICs (uprated twins OR FMIC the choice is yours)

Bigger injectors (at least 555s)

Port and polish the heads (there's not a huge gain to be made by this but with bigger tubs as much airflow as you can get is best to reduce lag)

Either extrude honed stock exhaust manifolds or get tublar ones made up (stock manifolds are sh1te with a capital S)

Gearbox - uprated clutch for manual, or auto-manual conversion for auto with uprated clutch (:D)

 

You'll need a host of guages as well to keep an eye on things - recommend oil pressure, water temp, EGT (one for each side) and boost.

 

You are also best removing the emmisions crap thats attached to the block - EGR valve and AIVs - the car won't fail the MOT if you remove these.

 

There's probably more to this but I just had a liquid lunch - I'll be back ;) LOL

 

CheerZ,

 

Andy

I'm still waiting to see a high powered zed, let alone a reliable one. Or S13 for that matter. :D:D

Originally posted by Jezz_S13

I'm still waiting to see a high powered zed, let alone a reliable one. Or S13 for that matter. :D:D

 

Is your S13 on the road Jezza ?:D

Originally posted by Nelson MainFella

Is your S13 on the road Jezza ?:D

yes, for now.

imminent coming to bits again though.

do u think S13s are unreliable or is it because yours is heavily modded ?

 

I suspect a lot of probs come from insufficient oil changing. As in any turbo car, the oil gets slowly cooked by the turbo(s)

Originally posted by Nelson MainFella

do u think S13s are unreliable or is it because yours is heavily modded ?

 

Mine's unreliable cos i keep thrashing the fuck out of it. :):D

However on the whole most things are down to the fact that it's done 140k miles and is 12/13 years old.

 

Actually mine isn't that unreliable mechanically really, the engine is VERY VERY close to being totally sorted finally, and, in the time it's been off the road most work has been to do body/structural and restoration work. It has never let me down to the point that it won't move or left me stranded, but I am fussy git and if it's not right I'll take it to bits and make it right. Besides I enjoy it too. :)

The more time I'm working on it the less chance I have of loosing my license. :)

Dont get me wrong I like to dream but arent 550rwbhp zeds just dream cars? Seems to me the 360-400 level at the flywheel is already damn good and reasonable reliable.

 

As Andy says the mods are pretty expensive to get to the seriously high level.

 

 

I mean if you got it its pretty much unusable - give it 10 - 20 full bore quarter miles and the transmission will be shot. Then the rings will go, the bores will wear fast and it will be unsellable at anything near cost.

 

Also the driveability will be less nice as in nothing then everything.

 

Theres a feature in one of those US mags about a 550bhp one and the rear wheels go all toe in on a full bore start because the rear sus bushes are too squidgy to hold it.

 

Once you go for that you better rebuild the car from the wheels up with rigid sub mounts and decent brakes as well.

you can NEVER have too much power ;) :D

Originally posted by Paul C

you can NEVER have too much power ;) :D

 

you got that damn straight:D

Originally posted by andyduff

Gearbox - uprated clutch for manual, or auto-manual conversion for auto with uprated clutch (:D)

 

 

PMSL!!! :D

 

Once you go for that you better rebuild the car from the wheels up with rigid sub mounts and decent brakes as well. [/b]

 

But modding a car is not just about engine powere - you shud uprate the brakes and suspension at the minimum.

 

Also, the thing with big power is it's nice to have it, even if you don't use it all. ie, the feel of a powerful engine can be felt by a slight press of the accelerator.