Me:
Adam, born 1983, interests include movies, cars, computers and video games.

 

Personal Information:

Married to my beautiful wife Pauline in 2013, our first child Sebastian was born in 2014 and our second child Alessia was born in 2018.

 

Current Job Employment:

Working as a Retail Team Leader (RTL) for Repco Auto Parts, currently stationed at the Roxburgh Park store since 2016.

 

300ZX Experience:

Z32 enthusiast and novice mechanic since 2006.

Model:
12/89 Japanese Domestic Model (series I) None turbo 2+2 Automatic. chassis #GZ32-003944

Build Description:
Complete 2000 model retrofit and OEM+ restoration

Mileage:
Purchased with 97,220km and when I began this build project, the car had reached 190,483km

Body Colour:
OEM Metallic Silver (Paint Code: #673). resprayed in 2012 in same Metallic Silver.

 

Bodykit:
Complete OEM 2000 model body styling retrofit.

 

Engine Type:

OEM 3.0 Litre V6 2960 cc (Code: VG30DE) original engine.

 

Transmission Type:
Purchased with 4 Speed Automatic (Code #re4r01a). Replaced in 2007 and then replaced again in 2017

 

Interior Colour:

Purchased with original Grey Tweed (Code #G), retrofitted with OEM Blue Velour (series II) interior 2012.

Arrival modifications:
NOS Sticker on interior rear view mirror, otherwise bone stock fresh import from Japan.

Bad parts on arrival:
Cracked front bumper bar, plenty of minor scratches and marks on OEM body paint work, badly rusted battery tray, damaged drivers seat side bolster, missing OEM scissor jack and tool kit, no OEM stereo installed and the dashboard had the common lifted demister vent damage

Date of purchase:
September 2006

 

Build Project Start Date:

January 2012 to November 2021

Build Budget:
For Parts the budget was unlimited from 2007-2012 (estimated spend was around $60k-$70k)

 

For paint/bodywork the budget was strictly $5k no more.

 

Between 2012 to 2021 the budget for the build had diminished to almost nothing, with only essential repairs and general maintenance allowed to be spent on the car.

 

 

 

My 300ZX’s Story:

The 300zx was been a car that I fell in love with back in 1997 after playing the original Gran Turismo video game on my PlayStation gaming console as a young 14 year old, with the car’s stunning futuristic aerodynamic body styling being the biggest factor of why I love the 1990 Nissan 300ZX Z32 model.

 

 

In 2006 after several years of looking, I finally found an affordable 1989 Nissan 300ZX Z32 to buy in a none turbo 2+2 automatic configuration which had recently been imported into Australia that same year from Japan. I purchased the car for $7550, and it was the biggest day in my life up to that point and I remember having the biggest smile on my face the whole trip home as I was thrilled to finally own my very own Nissan 300ZX.

 

 

Over the next 5 years of ownership, I learned a great deal about the ins and outs regarding the Nissan 300ZX and the community that supports it. I attended many community events including tech days and several victorian based car cruises to places like the Great Ocean Road and the Goldfields to name a few. Over those 5 years I  have also had the pleasure of meeting a great many amazing and passionate Z32 owners who like me love this car for what it is, a great and unquie japanese sports car. I am glad to have meet them and they will always be life friends to me.

 

 

When I purchased my nissan 300ZX, I quickly developed a desire to not just restore my 300zx over time but I also wanted to upgrade it to that of the latest 300ZX model Nissan had ever produced, that being the 2000 Version R 300ZX model sold only in Japan, and are an uncommon sight to see here in Australia and still to this day. 

 

 

 

To complish my goal I spent 10's of thousands of dollars sourcing and collecting brand new, rare and optional OEM 300ZX Z32 parts from the United States and Japan over the span of 4 years in an attempt to create the world’s first fully optional Nissan 300ZX that could have ever existed.

 

 

In 2012 I had to begin the build phase of the project ahead of sechdule as my partner and I were in the process of organising our wedding day and honeymoon events that following year and so in order for me to help out with paying for some parts of the wedding, I stopped my part sourcing efforts and began the complex task of planning out the dismantling and reassembling phase of the project.

 

It took me 12 months of hard work to strip down my car and then reassemble it using all of the new and used parts that I had been sourcing over the last 4 years to make it as close to a 2000 special edition model as I could. I was extremely proud of the amazing work my Dad and I had accomplished with the build and I brought the car to its first official outing on the 2012 GOR cruise and the response from the community was very positive and lots of intrigue.

 

 

After 2012, my new and improved daily driver was driven as much as possible, almost everyday. The car collected over 100,000 kms after 10 years of driving and though the car was basically finished, I still managed to find more and more rare and optional parts as the years past by and depending on finances new additions to the car we installed but the car remained as is for last 11 years or so.

 

My 300ZX’s Big Accident 2021:

 

My 300ZX's Big Crash 2021 (Part 1) #shorts #300zx

 

My 300ZX's Big Crash 2021 (Part 1) #shorts #300zx

 

Rebuild Project Start Date:

November 2021 - ongoing

 

Rebuild Budget:

Insurance payout was $8k after the accident, but the budget has since blown out to an additional $2k with more finances required to complete the rebuild.

 

Rebuild Project Plans:

Obliviously the main goal of the rebuild is to get the car back to a drivable state and repair the damage, so the car will look like it did before the accident occured. I also feel this is a golden opportunity for me to continue finishing off my original build project that I never really finished back in late 2012.

DISASSEMBLY PROCESS OF MY SPARE SET OF OEM REAR BRAKE CALIPERS

After successfully tearing down my original pair of 1989 non-turbo front OEM brake calipers, I decided the best way to build on that experience was to dismantle a spare set of OEM aluminum rear brake calipers from a 300ZX. In theory, the rear calipers should require much the same disassembly process as the fronts, with the main difference being that each rear caliper only contains two hydraulic pistons rather than four.

One other notable difference, however, is the overall condition of these rear calipers. Unlike the fronts, these are in fairly poor shape, with heavy grime buildup and a significant amount of rusted hardware that I expected would make the teardown more challenging. Despite this, I was confident I could fully disassemble them and further expand my mechanical knowledge in the process.

https://i.postimg.cc/kMSKz9Hm/1_Before_Dismantling_(Rear_Brake_Calipers)_Rear.jpg

Step 1: Tearing Down the Left-Hand Rear Brake Caliper

As with the front calipers, the first step was to remove the hydraulic pistons. I planned to use compressed air to force the pistons out of their bores, just as I had done previously.

This is where I hit my first major roadblock. Both rear OEM brake hose fittings were completely seized in the back of the caliper. Despite using a correctly sized 10 mm flare nut wrench, neither fitting would budge. Things quickly got worse when the hex portion of the fitting began to deform under the wrench due to rust and soft metal.

Not wanting to risk further damage, I stopped and reconsidered my approach. I remembered seeing my Dad successfully free stubborn bolts using penetrating lubricant, so I applied a generous amount of WD-40 to the fittings and surrounding threads and allowed it time to soak in.

https://i.postimg.cc/L4PLwRbG/2_First_Roadblock_Frozen_Brake_Hardline_Hose_Caliper_End_(Close_Up).jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/vHdfdkRm/2_Second_Roadblock_Frozen_Brake_Hardline_Hose_End_(Close_Up).jpg

Thankfully, this approach worked. Both brake hose fittings eventually broke free, allowing me to continue with the teardown.

https://i.postimg.cc/BZFHkszj/2_Removed_Brake_Hardline_Hose.jpg

Unfortunately, the fittings sustained noticeable damage during removal. While I originally hoped to refurbish the hardlines as part of a future restoration, replacing them outright will be far easier and safer.

https://i.postimg.cc/8kvM9DYP/2_Rear_Brake_Hardline_Hose_Damaged_After_Removal_(Wide).jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/SQ9C3qvw/2_Rear_Brake_Hardline_Hose_Damaged_After_Removal_(Close_Up).jpg

With the hoses removed, I used compressed air to push both pistons outward as far as possible while the used brake pads were still installed. At this point, another issue surfaced: two brake pad slide pins were seized in the caliper body. After applying WD-40, I was able to remove one pin, but the second pin refused to move.

Even using a hammer to drive it out proved ineffective. After exhausting all options I could think of, I decided to leave it for now and seek advice from my Dad before risking damage to the aluminum caliper body.

Fortunately, the stuck slide pin did not prevent me from continuing. I removed the four caliper mounting bolts and separated the two caliper halves without issue.

https://i.postimg.cc/DyKLKHVB/3_Dismantling_Process_Separating_LH_Rear_Brake_Calipers_1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/Yqfg2Rkz/3_Separated_Rear_Brake_Caliper_LH_Current_Condition_1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/8PBWk4Dy/3_Separated_Rear_Brake_Caliper_LH_Current_Condition_2.jpg

I then removed the old brake pads.

https://i.postimg.cc/kXdKdzrK/3_Dismantling_Process_Finally_Separated_LH_Brake_Caliper.jpg

The final step for this caliper was removing the pistons completely, along with the dust boots and internal rubber O-ring seals seated inside each piston bore.

Once everything was laid out on the bench, the amount of grime and contamination was obvious. A thorough cleaning would be required before any refurbishment could begin.

https://i.postimg.cc/Qd87F7dD/4_Dismantling_Process_(LH_Rear_Brake_Caliper)_Component_Layout.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/L6Bf4D2S/4_Close_Up_of_LH_Rear_Brake_Caliper_Seals_Pistons.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/qMXnBw0W/4_Close_Up_(LH_Rear_Brake_Caliper)_Front_Half_Section.jpg

Step 2: Tearing Down the Right-Hand Rear Brake Caliper

After dealing with the challenges on the left-hand caliper, I was better prepared for the right-hand side. As expected, both brake pad slide pins on this caliper were seized solid. While frustrating, I was still able to work around the issue and complete the teardown.

https://i.postimg.cc/CxcqkKRd/5_Dismantling_Process_(RH_Rear_Brake_Caliper)_Component_Layout.jpg

Just like the left-hand caliper, all components were heavily soiled and coated in grime.

https://i.postimg.cc/x1fmXmTB/4_Close_Up_of_RH_Rear_Brake_Caliper_Seals_Pistons.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/fRzdVdRX/5_Close_Up_(RH_Rear_Brake_Caliper)_Rear_Half_Section.jpg

The front half of the caliper clearly shows the two rusted slide pins still stuck in place.

https://i.postimg.cc/Mp6BnBpn/5_Close_Up_(RH_Rear_Brake_Caliper)_Front_Half_Section.jpg

Step 3: Cleaning Process for Both Rear Brake Calipers

With both calipers fully disassembled, it was time to assess what could be reused or refurbished. All metal components were placed into my ultrasonic cleaner and soaked in an all-purpose cleaning solution for 20 minutes at 60 °C.

The results were far better than expected. Most of the built-up grime and residue was completely removed. After thoroughly blow-drying each component to eliminate moisture, I sorted the parts into groups and stored them safely for the next phase.

https://i.postimg.cc/XYsCdvrB/6_Set_of_Rear_Brake_Caliper_Components_After_Cleaning_Drying_1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/8zZ6MC7r/6_Set_of_Rear_Brake_Caliper_Components_After_Cleaning_Drying_2.jpg

The real work begins next. Both caliper bodies will be stripped back to bare aluminum before being repainted in a durable, high-gloss finish. More updates to follow.

After last month’s ground-breaking milestone, tearing down my first set of OEM front and rear brake calipers, I’ve now moved onto the next phase of the project. This month’s update focuses on completing the remaining strip-down process of the newly dismantled OEM rear calipers, tackling several stubborn components that needed every trace of surface rust removed before any paint or protective coating could be applied.

YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ADAMZX Instagram: instagram.com/adamzx_z32

COMPLETION OF THE DISASSEMBLY PROCESS - SPARE SET OF OEM REAR BRAKE CALIPERS

Continuing on from where I left off in last month’s blog updates, this month’s progress focuses on completing the cleaning and de-rusting stages for my spare set of OEM rear brake calipers. Once this stage was finished, the calipers were finally ready to move on to the next phase of the restoration process—stripping the original factory protective coating from the outer surfaces and returning everything back to bare metal. This will ultimately provide the best possible foundation for a durable, high-temperature, high-gloss paint finish later on.

Step 4: De-Rusting Process of Both Rear Brake Calipers

The deep-cleaning cycles that both rear brake calipers went through in last month’s update successfully removed the majority of the built-up dirt and grime that had accumulated across all components, including the caliper bodies themselves.

However, there was still a noticeable amount of surface rust present on several parts that needed to be addressed before any new coating could be applied. To tackle this, I submerged all of the affected brake caliper components into a container filled with EvapoRust solution, placed the container into my ultrasonic cleaning machine, and ran a 20-minute cycle at 60°C.

Once the cycle was complete, the container was removed from the ultrasonic cleaner and all components were taken out of the EvapoRust solution. Each piece was then thoroughly dried by hand, followed by a quick powered blow-dry using my BigBoi handheld electric blower to ensure no excess residue remained on any of the calipers or hardware.

The body assemblies of each half of both rear brake calipers came out looking significantly better than before. Most of the ugly orange caliper paint was now completely gone, and overall the calipers are now starting to resemble their original factory condition—albeit with a slightly faded appearance.

https://i.postimg.cc/65r0c3gw/Separated_Rear_Brake_Calipers_Current_Condition_1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/2SCxKYNR/Separated_Rear_Brake_Calipers_Current_Condition_2.jpg

Next up were the hydraulic pistons, which were heavily rusted on the internal surfaces of all four units. Once again, the EvapoRust solution worked wonders and brought these parts back to life. I’ll still be going over each piston with a polishing wheel to remove the remaining scuff marks present on the external surfaces.

https://i.postimg.cc/Prsy1Z6Y/Caliper_Pistons_Current_Condition_1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/m2YwjDqw/Caliper_Pistons_Current_Condition_2.jpg

A quick wire-wheel test was also carried out on the internal section of one of the hydraulic pistons to remove any remaining buildup. The result was even better than expected and confirms that a light polish will have these looking near new again.

Polished: (LH) Vs Not Polished (RH)

https://i.postimg.cc/rFXj5WhS/Caliper_Piston_Cleaning_Up_Comparison.jpg

Nearly all of the brake caliper hardware and fasteners came out of the de-rusting cycle completely free of surface rust and corrosion. However, the factory zinc coating was also stripped during the process, so I’ll be looking to replace as many of these fasteners as possible as part of the restoration. More on that later.

https://i.postimg.cc/8PQ4LWyL/Caliper_Fasteners_Set_Current_Condition.jpg

The two rear mounting brackets for each rear brake caliper also saw the complete removal of all surface rust that had formed on the exposed metal surfaces, as well as beneath the factory single-stage paint coating. A full strip-down and repaint will definitely be required before these brackets can be reattached to the restored brake calipers.

https://i.postimg.cc/jdHXc5m0/Rear_Caliper_Brackets_Current_Condition_1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/Yq63R9ZB/Rear_Caliper_Brackets_Current_Condition_2.jpg

Last but not least was the results of the cleaning process for all of the rubber seals and O-rings. Surprisingly, these came out of the cleaning cycle looking almost like brand-new parts. That being said, I’ll still be replacing everything with a complete set of brand-new seals and O-rings during reassembly phase to ensure long-term reliability.

https://i.postimg.cc/FsyZpRqC/Old_Caliper_Orings_Seals_Set.jpg

Unfortunately, that concludes the extent of the work I was able to complete on this project for the month. While I’m extremely happy with the results of the cleaning and de-rusting processes, there’s still plenty of work ahead before these rear brake calipers are fully restored and ready to go back on the car.

Another productive month in the garage, with another successful brake caliper teardown completed—this time tackling a set of later-model iron Twin Turbo front calipers. Alongside that, I began polishing one of my bare aluminum OEM wheels, aiming for a full mirror finish. To top it all off, I also received a package from Japan containing the latest parts for the rebuild project, adding even more momentum to the build.

YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ADAMZX Instagram: instagram.com/adamzx_z32

DISASSEMBLY PROCESS OF MY NEW SPARE SET OF LATER MODEL TWIN TURBO OEM IRON BRAKE CALIPERS

With the teardown of my used rear OEM brake calipers now complete, I’m starting this month’s update with the newly acquired set of later-model twin turbo iron front brake calipers that arrived earlier this month for the rebuild project.

The goal for this set is simple: once restored, they will replace the later-model TT front calipers currently on the car — the same ones I installed back in 2011. These “new” used calipers will go through the exact same teardown and restoration process as the rears featured in last month’s update.

Finding the Twin Turbo Front Brake Calipers on Yahoo Auctions

I came across these calipers listed on Yahoo Auctions, advertised as having been used on a Skyline R32. The seller wasn’t completely certain of their origin, but from the photos I immediately recognized them as the later-model 300ZX Twin Turbo front calipers (Series 4–6, 1995–2000).

https://i.postimg.cc/L8VH8MJC/1_TT_brake_calipers_yahoo_auctions_2.jpg

Cosmetically, they were in average-to-poor condition, with significant surface rust and grime. However, the important thing was that they were complete.

The key difference between these later-model calipers and the earlier versions is the material. The later units are made from iron rather than aluminum. While heavier, the iron construction offers improved resistance to heat-induced warping under hard braking — particularly beneficial during track use. This is why Nissan upgraded to iron calipers in the later production models.

https://i.postimg.cc/YCxpCwvQ/1_final_model_brochure_photos_of_brakes_(1999_2000).jpg

Once they arrived here in Australia, I was eager to begin the restoration process. Despite their condition, I was confident they could be rebuilt to a standard better than new.

https://i.postimg.cc/Dzjn1ddv/1_Front_TT_Iron_Brake_Calipers_Before_1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/W4WT066z/1_Front_TT_Iron_Brake_Calipers_Before_2.jpg

Step 1: Hydraulic Piston Removal

As soon as the calipers arrived, I began by removing all hydraulic pistons using compressed air and old brake pads as spacers to prevent damage during extraction.

https://i.postimg.cc/gjRpF99h/2_Piston_Removal_Process_3.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/gc6m6hwY/2_Piston_Removed_1.jpg

The process went smoothly, and I was able to remove all eight pistons without major issues.

Step 2: Separating the Caliper Halves

Next, I applied penetrating lubricant to the four main fasteners on each caliper to help loosen the rusted bolts. After allowing it to soak briefly, I carefully removed all eight fasteners. Fortunately, none of them snapped — always a small victory when working with older hardware.

https://i.postimg.cc/CLG0cVHX/3_Caliper_Bolts_Removal_Process_1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/1R61zZTn/3_Caliper_Bolts_Removal_Process_6.jpg

With the bolts removed, I separated the caliper halves and extracted the internal O-ring seals from each piston bore.

https://i.postimg.cc/t4BLcR1z/4_O_ring_Removal.jpg

At this stage, the calipers were fully dismantled. Years of grime, corrosion, and brake dust buildup were clearly visible. There’s no denying — they need serious attention — but this is exactly why I wanted to rebuild them properly.

https://i.postimg.cc/SxSBVYKG/5_Front_TT_Iron_Brake_Calipers_After_1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/q7YWkmx2/5_Front_TT_Iron_Brake_Calipers_After_2.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/xCzhqK6v/5_Front_TT_Iron_Brake_Calipers_After_3.jpg

Step 3: Cleaning Process

Before moving any further, every component went into the ultrasonic cleaner. Each part was placed in containers and run through a full cleaning cycle.

The results were impressive. Years of accumulated dirt and grease were removed, revealing clean metal surfaces underneath. It’s always satisfying seeing neglected parts come back to life.

https://i.postimg.cc/L6Rw6gLT/6_Cleaning_Process_1.jpg

During inspection, I discovered a small hole in one of the original piston dust boots. This would have allowed moisture and debris into the bore — potentially leading to corrosion or piston seizure. Finding that damage alone justified the decision to completely dismantle these calipers.

https://i.postimg.cc/JzzFjwT5/6_Cleaning_Process_2.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/5yWGz6Gz/6_Before_Derusting_Process.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/DwpMgCHK/6_hole_in_piston_dust_boot.jpg

Step 4: De-Rusting Process

With the grime removed, it was time to address the rust.

All affected metal components were submerged in my go-to rust removal solution and run through a heated 20-minute ultrasonic cycle.

https://i.postimg.cc/NjCz4NSf/7_After_Derusting_Process_1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/R03bb7xN/7_After_Derusting_Process_2.jpg

The results were outstanding. The surface rust was effectively eliminated, and the transformation was dramatic. It’s incredible how much renewal proper rust treatment can provide.

https://i.postimg.cc/yNwrqD7c/7_After_Derusting_Process_3.jpg

Most of the corrosion on the hydraulic pistons was also removed. I’m still undecided whether to coat the internal surfaces of the pistons in a flat black finish or leave them natural — I’ll make that call during reassembly.

Conclusion

That concludes the teardown of this later-model twin turbo iron front caliper set. I’m extremely pleased with how smoothly the process went, and I’ve gained an even deeper understanding of the internal workings of these calipers.

Next up will be surface preparation of the caliper bodies. The old factory coating will need to be completely stripped back to bare metal before applying a fresh finish. That means it’s time to bring out the bench grinder and start prepping for paint.

Stay tuned for the next stage of the restoration.

POLISHING ONE OF MY OEM ALLOY WHEELS

Taking a short break from all of the recent brake system work, I decided to turn my attention to something a little more cosmetic — my set of bare aluminum OEM wheels. After sitting for the past four years, they were starting to look tired and dull, and it was clear they were long overdue for a proper polish to bring them back to life.

Upon closer inspection, I noticed a layer of oxidation had formed on the bare aluminum since the last time I polished this particular wheel. I was hopeful that a thorough polishing would remove it, but there was only one way to find out.

[i](Above) Back in 2007, I purchased a full set of OEM JDM factory wheels from another Z owner who had already stripped and polished the bare aluminum before selling them to me. Around that time, I learned that the USDM models were offered with factory chrome OEM wheels — a look I instantly fell in love with. Unfortunately, here in Australia, none of the OEM wheels available came in that factory chrome finish. So when a polished set came up for sale, I didn’t hesitate — it was the closest I could get to that chrome look, and I jumped on the opportunity.[/i]

(Below) A close-up of the oxidation that had formed on the surface of the bare aluminum over time.

https://i.postimg.cc/mkxrB7PN/1_Before_Polishing_2.jpg

After about an hour of polishing using an electric drill, a buffing cone, and some purple metal polish, the results were immediately noticeable. The dull, hazy finish was gone, replaced by a reflective, mirror-like shine that closely resembles chrome. I couldn’t have been happier with how the wheel turned out.

Ultimately, I’d love to have all of my OEM alloy wheels finished in a true mirror-like chrome one day. For now, though, the polished aluminum gives me a close enough look to achieve the style I’m going for — and I’m more than happy with it.

It was also a refreshing change of pace from the brake system work I’ve been focused on for the past few months — sometimes it’s nice to see quick, visual progress.

https://i.postimg.cc/wMKBgD15/2_After_Polishing.jpg

(Above) Although the bare aluminum now has a nice reflective, mirror-like shine, the oxidation hasn’t been completely removed. Even after several passes with the polish, I wasn’t able to eliminate any more of the remaining surface oxidation.

Unfortunately, I didn’t have enough time to polish the remaining three OEM wheels, but I’m planning to tackle those soon — ideally before reinstalling the refurbished brake calipers on the car.

There’s something incredibly satisfying about bringing old aluminum back to life, and this first wheel is a great reminder of why I’ve always loved the look of polished OEM wheels on this Z.

PARTS ACQUIRED DURING THE MONTH OF APRIL

This month I took delivery of two new brake-related parts from Japan. The first was a set of later-model iron Twin Turbo front brake calipers, which I’ve already covered in detail above.

The second item, however, is the one I’m most excited about. It has the potential to significantly reduce future servicing time—particularly when bleeding the braking system—provided I can successfully retrofit it to my car. Based on the research I’ve pieced together so far, it should be possible in theory.

(Above) The package from Japan containing both brake components. As always, Jesse Streeter and his team did an excellent job ensuring everything arrived safely and undamaged.

https://i.postimg.cc/fbNJmRLC/2_Parts_Inside_Box_1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/YSHhYC9x/2_Parts_Inside_Box_2.jpg

(Above) The contents of the package: a set of later-model iron TT brake calipers and a 1994+ ABS pump/actuator assembly.

If you haven’t already spotted it in the photos, the “mystery” item is a later-model 1994+ ABS pump/actuator. I purchased it as a complete unit, including all factory brake hardlines connecting the pump to the hydraulic system. Having the original hardlines intact is a huge advantage—it means I should be able to unbolt my original ABS pump and swap this unit in without needing to fabricate or modify any brake lines.

https://i.postimg.cc/DzT8LwZP/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/rpkKxwmn/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_2.jpg

(Above) The later-model ABS pump complete with 2+2 base plate and all original hardlines. These lines feed into the hydraulic distribution box, which connects the pump to the rest of the braking system.

The factory part number stamped on the identification plate is 47600-50P00, along with a serial number and the manufacturer’s name, Nippon ABS, LTD.

https://i.postimg.cc/wBQ3VYyb/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_4.jpg

(Above) According to Nissan FAST, part number 47600-50P00 was fitted to both NA and TT Z32 models from September 1993 through to October 1998.

As exciting as this purchase is, there’s one obvious issue: surface rust. The unit appears to have been exposed to the elements for some time, and corrosion has formed on several external components.

That said, I’ve dealt with similar surface rust before and had good success restoring parts to a respectable condition. The main challenge will be figuring out how best to submerge the assembly in Evapo-Rust (or treat it in stages) to remove the corrosion thoroughly. After that, I’ll need to apply a suitable protective coating to prevent future rust from returning.

https://i.postimg.cc/bv9dTfDV/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_5.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/HL9j21cQ/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_3.jpg

(Above) While the rust looks significant at first glance, it appears to be surface-level only.

https://i.postimg.cc/vmtDzwxM/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_7.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/BvBtgfLy/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_6.jpg

(Above) A close-up of the five brake hardlines that connect the pump to the car’s main hydraulic distribution box (located beneath the rear center section of the boot). After careful inspection, I found no kinks or damage to any of the lines, which is reassuring.

Next, I inspected the electrical side of the unit, including the main wiring harness and the internal relay box mounted on the rear of the pump. Fortunately, there were no signs of corrosion in any of the connectors, and the internal relay box looks to be in near-new condition.

https://i.postimg.cc/85kcXXLF/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_8.jpg

(Above) Research suggests that the three main electrical connectors are identical in location and orientation to those on early-model ABS pumps.

https://i.postimg.cc/G23tggvv/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_9.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/26jy99nh/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_10.jpg

(Above) Inspecting the internal relay box located at the rear of the pump.

I know some people may question the decision to modify the braking system in this way. Before the ongoing brake-bleeding issues began, I likely wouldn’t have considered it either. However, with no clear resolution to the bleeding problem so far, replacing the ABS pump could potentially eliminate a hidden internal fault. And if I’m going to replace it anyway, it makes sense to consider upgrading to the later-model unit.

The biggest unknowns remain:

• Can the later-model ABS pump be successfully retrofitted into an early Z32?

• If installed, will it function correctly?

As far as I can tell, this hasn’t been attempted before—so I may be the first to try this modification on a 300ZX Z32. My approach is simple: if it works, fantastic. If it doesn’t, I can revert to the original pump and share the results with the community so others know whether this path is viable.

At this point, based on the information I’ve gathered, the potential benefits outweigh the risks. Worst-case scenario, I return to stock. Best-case scenario, I resolve the brake bleeding saga and gain a worthwhile upgrade in the process.

This month I wasn’t able to dedicate as much time to the project as I had hoped, but I still managed to make some progress. The focus was on cleaning up and polishing the hydraulic pistons in both the front and rear brake calipers.

These components still had varying amounts of residue and rust buildup left over from the earlier cleaning and de-rusting process, so this stage involved carefully removing the remaining contamination and improving their overall finish.

YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ADAMZX Instagram: instagram.com/adamzx_z32

HYDRAULIC BRAKE PISTON RESTORATION PROCESS

The next phase of the brake caliper restoration process involves inspecting and restoring the hydraulic brake pistons that were removed from both the front and rear brake calipers.

The goal here is to put the pistons through one final cleaning process and then assess their restored condition to determine whether they can be reused or be replaced with brand new hydraulic pistons.

https://i.postimg.cc/Mph2qvG8/1_All_Brake_Hydraulic_Pistons_2_(Before_Polishing).jpg

(Above) The current condition of all the hydraulic pistons after undergoing a deep cleaning and de-rusting cycle in the ultrasonic cleaning machine.

Before beginning the restoration work, I took a closer look at several areas of the pistons that still required additional cleaning.

https://i.postimg.cc/P5BsTPqs/2_close_Up_Of_existing_rust_inside_pistons.jpg

(Above) Rust deposits still remaining inside the inner barrel of the hydraulic pistons.

(Below) Some staining or contamination present on the outer surface of the pistons.

https://i.postimg.cc/9Qv5Crfh/2_Staining_or_marking_on_outer_surfaces_of_both_front_and_rear_pistons.jpg

Grinding Process

To tackle the remaining rust deposits first, I attached a small brass wire brush bit to my Dremel and carefully began grinding away the corrosion. This method proved to be very effective at removing the rust while leaving the underlying metal clean and shiny.

https://i.postimg.cc/NjWqB50F/3_After_wire_wheeling_inner_barrels_of_all_brake_pistons_1.jpg

(Above) Nearly all of the rust deposits have now been removed from the inner barrel surfaces, revealing clean metal underneath.

https://i.postimg.cc/Mph2qvG7/3_After_wire_wheeling_inner_barrels_of_Front_brake_pistons_1.jpg

(Above) The front brake caliper pistons came out looking great, with all rust removed. Only a couple of pistons still show minor pitting at the bottom of the inner barrel.

(Below) The rear caliper pistons actually turned out even better than the fronts after the grinding process.

https://i.postimg.cc/fbm4LD3V/3_After_wire_wheeling_inner_barrels_of_Rear_brake_pistons_1.jpg

I’m very happy with how well the wire brushing process worked. The pistons have cleaned up so nicely that I’m now unsure whether I should paint the inner barrels or simply leave them as they are.

What do you guys think — should I paint them or leave them bare?

Polishing Process

Next, I moved on to removing the staining or contamination that remained on the outer surfaces of the pistons.

To do this, I set up my electric drill in a bench vice and attached a cone-shaped polishing wheel. This created a simple DIY polishing rig that made the process much easier to control.

https://i.postimg.cc/wBLKvgtt/4_Polishing_Setup.jpg

(Above) With this setup I can safely hold the piston while polishing, without having to manage both the drill and the part at the same time. This gives me much better control and allows me to polish the piston surfaces more effectively.

Here’s the starting condition before polishing the first piston.

https://i.postimg.cc/bvkXJpGg/4_Test_of_polishing_process_on_outer_surface_of_Brake_Piston_(Before).jpg

(Above) It’s a little difficult to see in the photo, but there is a thin ring of staining along the upper section of the piston’s outer barrel. The goal is to remove as much of this contamination as possible using the polishing process.

After about five minutes of polishing, the results were impressive. All of the staining on the outer barrel of the first piston was completely removed.

https://i.postimg.cc/SKC0skXM/4_Test_of_polishing_process_on_outer_surface_of_Brake_Piston_(After_1).jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/zfKmB8Lw/4_Test_of_polishing_process_on_outer_surface_of_Brake_Piston_(After_2).jpg

(Above) As you can see, the contamination that was present on the piston surface has now been completely removed.

All that remained was to repeat the process on the rest of the pistons. Just like the first one, the results were excellent. The polishing process removed all visible contamination from the outer surfaces, making the pistons look almost brand new again.

https://i.postimg.cc/q7yfR4t1/5_All_Pistons_Polished.jpg

(Above) The polishing process was quick, simple, and extremely effective. I’m very happy with the results so far.

After successfully removing the rust deposits from the inner barrels of all the pistons and eliminating the contamination on the outer barrel surfaces, I am satisfied that these restored brake caliper hydraulic pistons are suitable for reuse. They can now be reinstalled into the front and rear brake calipers during the final stages of the restoration process.

Another small update for this month’s blog, but progress was made nonetheless. I picked up a new piece of equipment that will help me strip paint and rust from old car metal parts much more efficiently—and much faster.

In addition, I acquired another component for the braking system. This one is in significantly better condition than the part I purchased a couple of months ago, so it’s a solid upgrade.

YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ADAMZX Instagram: instagram.com/adamzx_z32

MOUNTING BRACKET (REAR BRAKE CALIPER) – SANDBLASTING PROCESS

With all of the brake caliper hydraulic pistons now restored to a usable condition, I turned my attention to the caliper bodies themselves. The next step in the restoration process is to strip the factory coating and repaint the calipers in a high-temperature gloss black finish.

From my research, achieving a durable and high-quality paint finish starts with proper surface preparation. Ideally, paint should be applied directly to bare metal wherever possible. When done correctly, the process involves applying an etch primer to the bare surface, followed by the colour coat, and finally a clear coat for added durability and protection.

Because I plan to use an etch primer—which is specifically designed for bare metal as I've mentioned before—I need to remove as much of the original factory coating from the OEM calipers as much as possible.

Up to this point, I’ve had good success using traditional grinding and metal resurfacing techniques to strip coatings from various parts. My initial plan was to use the same method on all four brake calipers. During testing, the bench grinder removed the factory coating effectively, but I noticed it was also altering the surface of the aluminium. I suspect this is due to heat buildup caused by friction from the wire wheel.

(Above) The stripped metal surface appears to show heavy pitting, likely caused by heat buildup during grinding.

Another issue was accessibility—getting the grinder into tight areas proved difficult. Progress was slow, with even a small section taking around 30 minutes to complete.

At this stage, I decided the bench grinder was no longer the best tool for the job. While it could achieve the desired result, it required too much time and effort. It also produced a lot of debris, unpleasant odours, and airborne particles that ended up on my clothes and skin.

For years, I’ve been researching alternative methods for stripping automotive parts more efficiently, and this seemed like the perfect opportunity to upgrade my setup.

So I purchased a Unimac 90L benchtop sandblasting cabinet—the most affordable and compact option available to me. I’ve wanted one of these for quite some time, and after watching countless reviews and demonstration videos online, it became clear how effective sandblasting is for quickly stripping metal parts.

The main reasons I held off previously were the cost and limited storage space. However, after reorganising my workspace and weighing the long-term benefits, I decided it was a worthwhile investment.

This cabinet should significantly improve my workflow—not just for this project, but for future restorations as well. The ability to strip parts down to bare metal in minutes rather than hours is a huge advantage.

https://i.postimg.cc/7hXKQhjw/1_New_Sandblaster_setup.jpg

(Above) The cabinet is connected to a 2.0HP high-flow 60L air compressor and a 1000W dust extractor. I also installed a water trap and air regulator to control pressure and reduce moisture in the air lines.

https://i.postimg.cc/qqQ1ZqWM/1_Sandblaster_Work_Area.jpg

(Above) I also chose a coarse 30/60 grit garnet blasting media, which is affordable and easy to source locally.

I set the air regulator to the recommended 90 PSI (0.65 MPa).

https://i.postimg.cc/KjQ0sjCc/1_Setting_Max_air_pressure_on_regulator.jpg

(Above) Moisture control is critical in sandblasting, as water in the air lines can clog the system. The regulator with a built-in water trap helps minimise this risk.

Before moving on to the calipers, I decided to test the setup on a smaller component—a pair of rear caliper mounting brackets.

Here’s the condition of the brackets before blasting:

https://i.postimg.cc/mkVm6kKF/2_Brackets_Before_Blasting.jpg

(Above) While most of the factory paint coating had been removed, tight areas still retained some of the old paint—exactly where sandblasting should excel.

With everything set, I placed the brackets in the cabinet and began blasting. The results were exactly what I hoped for—fast and effortless. The remaining paint was removed in seconds, and both brackets were fully stripped within minutes.

https://i.postimg.cc/ZnjwDnXC/2_Bracket_After_Blasting_1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/wMFwbMnt/2_Bracket_After_Blasting_2.jpg

(Above) Both brackets are now completely stripped back to bare metal, with all of the factory coating removed.

This first test confirmed that investing in a sandblasting cabinet was the right decision. The time savings and improved results are immediately noticeable, and I’m looking forward to using this setup to restore all four brake calipers next.

PARTS ACQUIRED FOR THE MONTH OF JUNE 2025

Another month, another new parts acquisition for the project—and this one was a surprisingly great find from Yahoo Auctions in Japan. Not only was it inexpensive, but it also arrived in excellent, almost like-new condition. That’s a huge improvement compared to a similar unit I purchased two months ago, which was heavily covered in rust.

Because of its condition, this part won’t require the extensive restoration work that the previous one would have needed. That saves a significant amount of time and allows me to fast-track its installation of this new part into the Z sooner rather than later.

It has been a 6 week wait for this package to arrive to me from Japan. I choose to use sea freight for this purchase to save on shipping costs and so it took a while for the package to arrive to me in Australia.

Another Later Model Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS) Pump/Module

As you all know 2 months ago, I decided to buy and received my first series 2 or later model ABS pump/module from Japan which was relatively cheap but had the massive con of also being in a very rusty poor condition and would require an extensive restoration process on the entire assembly before I could install the unit into the car.

https://i.postimg.cc/0NYmk3Z8/First_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_Purchased_In_April_2025.jpg

(Above) Although I was excited to purchase this later-model ABS pump, it turned out to be in very poor condition. It will require a significant amount of work—disassembly, rust removal, and reassembly—before it can be made fully functional and installed in the boot of the Z.

But while randomly searching yahoo auctions this month though, I managed to find a listing for a much better conditioned later model ABS pump that believe it or not was cheaper to buy then the first abs pump and only had a small amount of surface rust present on the unit.

https://i.postimg.cc/h46909Xb/Yahoo-Auctions-ABS-Pump-Listing.png

(Above) A Deal to hard to pass at when I first saw it.

Because of its rust-free condition and lower price, I decided to purchase the new unit and have it shipped over. I’ll now be changing plans to use this ABS pump instead of the one I bought two months ago.

Not all is lost, though—the original pump came with a complete set of factory brake hardlines, which I’ll transfer over to the new unit. This will allow me to complete the installation just as it would have been from the factory.

https://i.postimg.cc/NFyxbD86/2_New_later_Model_ABS_Pump_1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/7hCNX91M/2_New_later_Model_ABS_Pump_2.jpg

Upon first inspection of the new ABS pump the condition of the components was very good, there was minimal surface rust present on the unit which I may or may not try to remove before installing the pump into the boot of my Z.

When comparing the new ABS pump with the first one the difference in condition is very noticeable. The first pump I plan to keep as a spare and if necessary do a full restoration on at some point just in case I ever need to change the pump out due to a fault or failure.

https://i.postimg.cc/zvLkp7wk/3_Comparison_of_the_first_ABS_pump_vs_new_ABS_pump_1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/6q7hzcVH/3_Comparison_of_the_first_ABS_pump_vs_new_ABS_pump_2.jpg

The difference in condition is night and day and in my mind a decent purchase sourcing this new ABS pump.

Even with the new ABS pump in hand, I will have to hold off installing it into the Z until I have completed my research into if retrofitting the later model ABS pump is even possible into an early model 300ZX which at this point in time I don't have any concrete information proving my theory on it being possible is correct.

As far as I can tell looking through the AUS, US and UKDM Z32 forums, no one has ever tried to do this kind of conversion before ever and there are no personal hands on experiences i can read about that can verify if it is or isn't possible, so I will just have to confirm the possibility myself on my own Z at some point in the future.

Small progress this month: I prepped the two dismantled rear brake calipers for the next stage in the restoration process, masking and protecting key areas before I will then be sandblasting them back to bare metal in the next month.

YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ADAMZX Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/adamzx_z32

REAR BRAKE CALIPER PREP BEFORE SANDBLASTING

Before starting the sandblasting process on the rear brake caliper bodies, I needed to properly mask and protect a few critical areas. In particular, the hydraulic piston bores and the internal brake fluid channels or ports must be shielded from blasting media to avoid damage.

https://i.postimg.cc/DzfJwt5z/1-Before-Masking-2.jpg

(Above) The pair of calipers prior to masking.

My approach was straightforward. I used masking tape to seal off the two fluid channels that allow brake fluid to pass between each half of the caliper. For the hydraulic piston bores, I inserted a dense foam material to fully block off the openings and prevent any abrasive media from contacting the internal aluminum surfaces.

https://i.postimg.cc/VNsrk34d/2-Tools-Required.jpg

(Above) The tools and materials used to seal and protect the caliper components during preparation.

After about an hour of work, all the necessary areas were sealed and protected. The foam inserts worked particularly well for the piston bores, creating a snug barrier. For the fluid ports, I used a simple but effective technique—lightly tapping around the edges with a hammer—to cut perfectly shaped circles out of masking tape for a precise fit.

https://i.postimg.cc/hG4ztHMt/3-After-Marking-Up.jpg

(Above) Fully masked and ready for sandblasting.

That’s as far as I got for the month of July. Progress may have been limited, but it’s a solid step forward. The next stage will be to begin sandblasting the calipers, which I’m aiming to tackle soon.

Although I had been fairly consistent with my monthly progress updates up until July 2025, I unfortunately wasn't able to make any progress on the build during August. This was mainly due to spending quality time with my wife and kids on a two-week family cruise through the South Pacific, visiting New Caledonia and Vanuatu.

After returning from the holiday, I was able to get back into the project and continue work on both the front and rear brake calipers. This included stripping down the rear calipers and carrying out additional masking and preparation work on the front calipers.

I also managed to track down and purchase a crucial replacement part for the Z, which I’m hopeful will resolve one of the major driving issues the car is currently experiencing.

YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ADAMZX Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/adamzx_z32

REAR BRAKE CALIPER SANDBLASTING PROCESS

Continuing on from where I left off in July's blog update, I had just finished masking off a couple of areas on each rear brake caliper that I wanted to protect from the sandblasting process. However, before I could begin blasting, I decided it was worth protecting a few additional areas. These included all of the threaded bolt holes, along with the entire mating surface between the two halves of each rear brake caliper.

To protect the threaded holes, I purchased a selection of M10x1.25 metric bolts and threaded them into place. Not only will they prevent the threads from being damaged during blasting, but they'll also provide convenient mounting points for hanging the calipers during the painting process.

(Above) There are three threaded holes that I decided to protect before sandblasting: one for the rear brake hardline fitting and two for the mounting bracket that secures the rear brake hose.

Next, I wanted to protect the ends of the four bolt holes used by the main bolts that clamp the two caliper halves together. My goal here was to prevent those recessed areas from being stripped back to bare metal, reducing the chance of future corrosion if paint coverage wasn't perfect. It may be a little overkill, but I'd rather take the extra precaution now than regret it later.

https://i.postimg.cc/dV16zrgB/1-Additional-Blocking-Off-Masking-2.jpg

(Above) Each of the four recessed bolt holes was plugged with a small piece of foam cut from a cheap car wash sponge.

The final jobs before blasting were to improve the sealing around the piston bores and redo the masking on the caliper mating surfaces.

I applied fresh masking tape over each mating surface, then used a small hammer to gently tap around the edges. This cleanly cut the tape along the machined surface, leaving a crisp, accurate masking line.

I also reinstalled the original rubber piston dust boots around the edges of each piston bore to provide an extra layer of protection and prevent any abrasive media from accidentally reaching the bore surfaces.

https://i.postimg.cc/jjnXjKxK/1-Additional-Blocking-Off-Masking-3.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/q76L70Jr/1-Additional-Blocking-Off-Masking-4.jpg

(Above) I know some of these extra masking steps are probably unnecessary for a simple sandblasting job, but since this is my first time tackling a project like this, I figured it was better to be overly cautious than risk damaging a component that's difficult to replace.

After repeating the process on the remaining rear brake caliper halves, I could finally say they were all ready for blasting.

https://i.postimg.cc/25Lw5mkr/2-Additional-Blocking-Off-Masking-completed-1.jpg[/img]

https://i.postimg.cc/GpTQprLk/3-Before-Sandblasting-1-(Rear-Brake-Calipers).jpg

Masking job completed and ready for blasting!

Finally, it was time to start blasting. I used 30/60 grit garnet blasting media at 90 PSI to remove the original black factory coating and return the calipers to bare metal.

https://i.postimg.cc/HxGtcKnR/4-Before-Sandblasting-5-(Rear-Brake-Calipers).jpg

I was hoping this would be a quick and straightforward process, and it would also serve as a good test of my new blasting setup.

Here are the results after blasting the first rear brake caliper halves. I'm extremely happy with how it turned out. As you can see, the factory black coating has been completely removed, leaving a clean, uniform bare metal finish across the entire casting.

https://i.postimg.cc/V6jWjR0K/5-After-Sandblasting-1-(Rear-Brake-Calipers).jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/V6jWjR0T/5-After-Sandblasting-2-(Rear-Brake-Calipers).jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/XJwkw8yS/5-After-Sandblasting-3-(Rear-Brake-Calipers).jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/rmSNSJtq/5-After-Sandblasting-4-(Rear-Brake-Calipers).jpg

Sandblasting was a huge improvement over my previous wire-wheel stripping method. It made reaching all of the tight corners and intricate casting details almost effortless, producing a much more consistent finish with far less physical effort.

Although I was very pleased with the results, one major downside quickly became apparent—it took almost an hour to complete just a single set caliper of halves.

The biggest limitation was my air compressor. With only a 60-litre tank, I could blast continuously for around five minutes before the compressor had to run and recharge the tank. That meant I was spending roughly as much time waiting for air pressure to recover as I was actually blasting.

The final result was exactly what I was aiming for, but the process took considerably longer than expected. For now, it's simply a limitation of my current blasting setup that I'll have to work around.

Moisture in the air lines also proved to be an issue. Even with a water separator installed, small amounts of water were still making their way into the blast gun, causing several blockages throughout the job. It's clear I still have a lot to learn about getting the most out of this sandblasting setup.

Despite those challenges, this stage of the project is now complete. With the calipers stripped back to bare metal, I'm hoping to move on to painting them within the next few weeks—or perhaps within the next month if everything goes according to plan.

FRONT BRAKE CALIPER PREP BEFORE SANDBLASTING

With the rear brake calipers now fully sandblasted and stripped of their original factory protective coating, it was time to move on to the used iron TT front brake calipers that I disassembled last month. Having refined the masking process on the rear calipers, I followed the exact same procedure on the front pair to ensure every critical surface remained protected during blasting.

The two mating surfaces where each caliper half joins together were carefully masked off. The piston bores were then filled with foam, and the dust boot covers were reinstalled to prevent any blasting media from entering the piston bores.

https://i.postimg.cc/7Pd3KJLt/2-Masking-Up-Blocking-Off-Process-(Front-Brake-Calipers)-1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/66grM4QM/2-Masking-Up-Blocking-Off-Process-(Front-Brake-Calipers)-2.jpg

The final stage of the preparation involved blocking off all the threaded bolt holes using heavy-duty sacrificial fasteners. This protects the threads from blasting media while ensuring they remain clean and undamaged. With that complete, both front calipers are now fully prepared for sandblasting before receiving a fresh, durable protective coating.

https://i.postimg.cc/7Pd3KJLm/3-Masking-Up-Blocking-Off-Process-(Front-Brake-Calipers)-1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/RCy7gJ08/3-Masking-Up-Blocking-Off-Process-(Front-Brake-Calipers)-2.jpg

Overall, I'm very pleased with how this preparation process has turned out. Taking the time to properly mask and protect every critical surface should make the blasting process far more straightforward while preventing unnecessary cleanup or damage afterward. The front calipers are now ready to be stripped back to bare metal in preparation for their new protective finish.

PART ACQUISITIONS FOR THE MONTH OF SEPTEMBER 2025

Onto some better news now, everyone.

As many of you know, since getting the car back on the road, I've been dealing with an issue where the transmission isn't shifting through the gears as it should. While it hasn't stopped me from driving the car, it's definitely a problem that will need to be addressed once the ongoing brake issues are finally resolved over the coming weeks or months.

As I've mentioned in a couple of previous updates, I suspect the transmission is currently unable to shift into both 2nd and 4th gear. My assumption is that the gearbox will ultimately need to be removed, disassembled and rebuilt to rectify the fault. While this won't be a small undertaking, my dad and I are planning to tackle the rebuild ourselves. Not only will this save a significant amount in labour costs, but it will also give us the opportunity to learn more about the RE4R01A transmission by removing it from the car, stripping it down, rebuilding it, and reinstalling it ourselves.

Although rebuilding the original transmission would save a considerable amount of money, it would also leave the car off the road for quite some time. After already spending around six to seven months working through the brake bleeding issues since February, the thought of having the car out of action for another extended period of time just wasn't particularly appealing.

With that in mind, I spent the next seven months casually searching the internet for a good used RE4R01A transmission. If I could find a complete, working unit at the right price, it would be a much faster way of getting the car back on the road while allowing me to rebuild my original gearbox at my own pace.

My first option was to reach out to my contact in Japan, Jesse Streeter, to see if he could source a transmission from Yahoo! Auctions Japan. There were a few promising listings available, but unfortunately he wasn't able to arrange shipping for something as large and heavy as a complete transmission to Australia. That ruled out importing one from Japan almost immediately.

My next step was to speak with a local JDM parts supplier and mechanic to see if he had a suitable transmission available or knew of someone who did. As it turned out, he did have a used twin-turbo RE4R03A transmission for sale, but it also required a complete rebuild. To make matters worse, he wanted $2,000 AUD for the faulty gearbox, with the additional condition that I hand over my original transmission as a rebuildable core for him to sell to the next customer.

Although I'd had reasonable dealings with him throughout this restoration, the proposal simply didn't stack up. I'd still have to rebuild the replacement transmission, spend a considerable amount of money, and lose my original gearbox in the process. When I weighed everything up, rebuilding my own transmission was clearly the more sensible option, so I politely declined the offer and continued my search.

As the months passed, it became increasingly obvious just how difficult these transmissions are to find in Australia. Japan had several used RE4R01A gearboxes available for between $200 and $400 AUD, but without a practical way to ship them here they were effectively out of reach. There were also a number of transmissions available in the United States, but once freight costs were factored in, importing one simply wasn't financially viable.

Given how common manual conversions are within the 300ZX community, I genuinely expected there to be a healthy supply of second-hand automatic transmissions on the market. Instead, my search proved the exact opposite. At least here in Australia, good used RE4R01A transmissions are surprisingly scarce, making the hunt far more challenging than I had ever anticipated.

Just when I thought all hope was lost, I stumbled across an online advertisement from an automotive workshop located in Western Australia offering a used 300ZX automatic transmission for just $1,000 AUD.

Initially I thought that this shop was located overseas but when I realised it was a shop located in Australia I knew that this was going to be the one I was looking for.

Needless to say, I couldn't contain my excitement when I came across the listing. I immediately called my dad to discuss the possibility of purchasing the transmission as a replacement for my faulty original gearbox.

After talking it through, we realised there were still a number of important questions that needed answering before committing to the purchase. The listing didn't mention whether the transmission was in good working condition, nor did it specify whether it was the naturally aspirated RE4R01A or the twin-turbo RE4R03A model. On top of that, the cost of shipping such a large and heavy item across the country was a complete unknown, and that's always something I like to factor into the total cost before proceeding with a purchase.

I emailed the workshop to ask them more about the transmission and answer my questions above as well requested an estimate on shipping the transmission across the country to Victoria when I'm located.

The workshop promptly replied later that day, confirming that the transmission had been operating perfectly before being removed from the donor vehicle. Unfortunately, they couldn't tell me exactly which version of the transmission it was which was surprising but they said they were look into it for me.

After doing some research into the visual differences between the naturally aspirated and twin-turbo gearboxes, I carefully examined the photos in the listing and thankfully, all the identifying features on this gearbox pointed towards it being an NA RE4R01A transmission, which was exactly what I needed to match my existing drivetrain.

The biggest surprise, however, was the shipping cost. Despite the transmission needing to travel over 3,400 kilometres across Australia, the workshop quoted just $50 AUD for freight directly to my door.

That was a deal I simply couldn't pass up.

With all of my questions answered, there was nothing left to do but purchase the transmission. I completed the payment immediately, and once the tracking details came through, I was amazed to see the estimated delivery time from Western Australia to Victoria was only two to three business days.

I honestly couldn't believe my eyes.

When it arrived later that week, I couldn't have been happier. The entire buying experience was smooth from start to finish, and I was genuinely impressed that a complete transmission could be transported across the country so quickly—and for such an incredibly low freight cost. It was one of those rare purchases where everything came together perfectly.

https://i.postimg.cc/G2R1vx8n/1-Second-Hand-RE4r01A-Automatic-Transmission-Purchased-1.jpg

The unit was strapped down to a wooden pallet and covering in black shrink wrap.

Because I had the transmission delivered to my work address, I wasn't able to transport the transmission home myself, so I arranged for my dad to drive up in his SUV to collect it and bring it back to his place. The plan was to give the gearbox a thorough inspection, remove the transmission pan, and carefully check the condition of the internals before making any decisions.

If everything checked out, the replacement transmission could simply be installed once the brake bleeding issue was finally resolved. Alternatively, we could have this gearbox fully rebuilt first and then install it, giving me a freshly reconditioned transmission from the outset. At this stage, we were still weighing up which approach would be the better long-term solution.

https://i.postimg.cc/bvkhGBJq/2-Second-Hand-RE4r01A-Automatic-Transmission-Purchased-2.jpg

Finally home safe and sound ready for a thorough inspection process to begin.

For now, though, I'm simply relieved to have found an affordable RE4R01A automatic transmission that is hopefully in excellent working condition. After months of searching, it feels like a huge weight has been lifted, and I'm looking forward to inspecting it properly before eventually installing it in the car.