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Hi, I know this subject has been covered numerous times but from everything I have found via the search has not solved my problem, car is a 92 NA and has a aftermarket actuator in the drivers door, when I operate the remote the drivers door locks but the passenger door does not.

From what I have read there is a actuator on the drivers door lock that operates the passenger door lock when the key is turned either to lock or unlock, the aftermarket actuator performs the same action as the key and locks and unlocks the Drivers door fine.

I have the bottom of the drivers side dash off, the kick panel off and the door card removed, If I have understood previous posts correctly there is a plug and socket just by the bracket that hold the window controls that runs to the bottom of the door lock assembly, there are four wires in this connector one Green one Red one Blue and one Black.

Can anyone tell me what these four wires do and should there be a constant 12v to any of them ?     I really can't get the hang of the principal of the system, I am assuming that there should be a 12v permanent live to the bottom of the Door Lock and it somehow sends a pulse when the key is turned to either lock or unlock I have put a meter on mine and can not detect any 12v supply

Hope this makes sense

 

Featured Replies

  • Author

Good Morning Andrew

Thank you for posting the circuit diagram, I have never been very good at reading these things (just thick i guess)  I can follow the path and assume that I would be looking at the Australian part of it, which answers my question that it appears to have a permanent live but it still does not give me the colour of the wires going to the Drivers side door lock switch is there some sort of code ?

Hi, when I fitted my aftermarket alarm I had to connect new actuator to existing linkage in drivers door, if all links are ok in driver door look at linkage in passenger door , the coloured links are made of plastic which become brittle and snap !!!

The small black one which links electric to mechanical is probably worth double checking on passenger side.

If after checking you need one CZP sell metal upgrade products for these.

Hope this helps you.

George B

20200508_124807.jpg

20200508_125001.jpg

Electrically speaking 

Live 12v comes from FUSEBOARD to  RED wire pin3

This will trigger coil to set timer in motion which should feed live 12v to either  light green OR blue depending whether you are locking or unlocking. 

Light green and blue are your feed to passenger side L/G and L 

Side note though on my spare colours on passenger side are green and yellow !!!!!

So you should have on driver side  12v on red, 0v on black(negative), and switched 12v on light green OR blue(yellow).

                                         Passenger side 12v on  green or blue(yellow)

    Regards

  • Author

Good Afternoon Andrew

Thank you for the wire colour coding very helpful, however my car does not subscribe to the colour coding on the circuit diagram, I have assumed that on my car the White/Red is my Red, the Blue/Green is my Green, the Blue is Blue and the Black is Black, and with my trusty test meter have established that there was no supply to the Red wire and subsequently no output on the Green or the blue.

I have traced the colours back through the door to the main loom in the footwell and the White/Red (constant 12v) has been fitted with a scotchlock to obtain power for a F2029-89911 control box that is mounted on the cover under the steering wheel, and where they had cable tied the loom up under the dash the pressure had over time broken the White/Red wire (scotchlocks I hate them).

I have tested that the passenger door lock works with the broken wires held together, so now all that is required is to remake the connection this time it will be a solder joint which will subsequently be shrink wrapped, I have not checked the connections that George suggested as at this stage it is not necessary, but the photo's I have no doubt will be very useful in the future when lock failure becomes a issue so thank you for that. 

The supply to the F2029-89911 is not really required as I understand, having googled it the unit would have controlled a parking mast which is unfortunately no longer fitted which is a real shame.

My thanks to all advice I am now off to fold myself in half to get into the footwell and solder the broken wires back together.

Incidentally in the unlikely event that anyone has a parking mast that they do not require please get in touch.

Many Thanks

 

Marc

 

  • Author

Thanks to George for the second post, did not see that when posting last reply

 

Best Regards

 

Marc

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

Hi All

Well having partially recovered from the back pain inflicted in the drivers footwell, problem is not solved, on further investigation hidden in the drivers door is a control box Labeled "CONT ASSY LOCK DOOR" IMAG0084.thumb.jpg.a27f204d302fc14d34a09e00442ad94b.jpgI have attached a photo, has anyone a wiring diagram for this item ? there are also other items hidden in the door cavity that are wired to this control box 

 

IMAG0079.thumb.jpg.2817ec8a500af5619c931773eab20e7d.jpg

One of which pictured above, there is also a red LED in a case attached by cable to this box, the box is obscured by the window control  pictured below

IMAG0083.thumb.jpg.625c1d5c26fa7f2a3596c653c661b673.jpg

I am assuming that this is a Nissan retrofit item as I can not believe that Nissan would have been party to fitting anything with scotchlocks but there are a significant number of wires coming from the "cont assy lock door" module (a nightmare without wiring diagram)

If anyone has any experience of this door lock control unit H0561-35F00 please let me know

 

Thanks in advance

Best Regards

Marc

IMAG0076.jpg

IMAG0077.jpg

IMAG0078.jpg

H0561-35F00 (KH0511 in diagram below) is part of the Nissan remote door locking system kit (H0560-64J27) offered in the JDM market

an option.

http://jp-carparts.com/nissan/partlist.php?maker=nissan&type=69&cartype=6&fig=H05

I don't have the Japanese circuit diagram, but the parts diagram shows the key parts and wiring. And yes, scotchloks were supplied in the kit!

555351368_output_H05001.thumb.gif.2ea1422cff2cf63e87fdab88930a34b2.gif

Edited by AndrewG

Project 1547 - Out of the Blue

She's so fine, there's no tellin' where the money went - Simply irresistible.

  • Author

Hi Andrew

Thanks for the info, presumably fitted in Japan before export, I don't really know which way to go from here, presumably the quickest way to a solution is to take this Control box out and follow the loom from it to wherever the wires have been connected, disconnect them and remake all connections to the vehicles loom where it has been spliced into.

Without the wiring diagram I don't think I will be able to trace the fault at least with the cars loom back to factory (as best I can get it) I might stand a chance.

Thanks again for the input

Best regards

 

Marc 

My apologies, I do have the Installation guide for the Nissan remote door locking system kit (H0560-40P00) specific for the Z32.

It is in Japanese though.

This is the parts link for the Z32 version (better than the one I posted above).

http://jp-carparts.com/nissan/partlist.php?maker=nissan&type=132&cartype=1&fig=H05&page=2

and this is the  Installation quide:

H0560-40P00 Installation quide.pdf

 

 

 

Project 1547 - Out of the Blue

She's so fine, there's no tellin' where the money went - Simply irresistible.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

Thanks for the installation guide Andrew, my Japanese is worse that useless, but you can get the general idea

It appears there are only four connections, there are 3 connections for the parking pole (all nissan scotchlocks) all but one of which are broken, so I have removed them all and re established the pre fitment loom and vouloir passenger door locks when the drivers door is locked.

All the Nissan aftermarket items are now all disconnected, I am now ploughing through the wiring on the Autowatch 160 RLi-T fitted by another "Expert" who thinks that PVC electrical tape is a good long term insulator.

Thanks for all the help and advice from everyone

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